Subaru Tranny again...

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

Fired up the Subaru, went for a ride, about a mile from home the tranny
started binding..again...pulled over and it shifted to first and ran fine
aftger that...

WTF?!?!?!

(if you didn't see the other post, I adjusted the brake band on a Suby 3AT
auto trans to stop it from jumping when shifting from 1-2. Shifts great
now, just binds <1 mile and then runs fine...)

 

[HLS]

Fired up the Subaru, went for a ride, about a mile from home the tranny
started binding..again...pulled over and it shifted to first and ran fine
aftger that...

WTF?!?!?!

(if you didn't see the other post, I adjusted the brake band on a Suby 3AT
auto trans to stop it from jumping when shifting from 1-2. Shifts great
now, just binds <1 mile and then runs fine...)

Basically, you tried, but you neither had the tool nor the knowledge to
adjust
the band properly. You dont know whether this has anything to do with the
problem or not.

Find an honest tranny specialist (if you can) and have him or her check this
out, before you find yourself walking.

 

[JoeSpareBedroom]

Fired up the Subaru, went for a ride, about a mile from home the tranny
started binding..again...pulled over and it shifted to first and ran fine
aftger that...

WTF?!?!?!

(if you didn't see the other post, I adjusted the brake band on a Suby 3AT
auto trans to stop it from jumping when shifting from 1-2. Shifts great
now, just binds <1 mile and then runs fine...)

You are obviously not a car mechanic. Why are you working on this car? Is it
a hobby, like a Frankenstein guitar you experiment on, but really don't use
for gigs because you have no idea whether it'll make it through 3 songs?

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

Basically, you tried, but you neither had the tool nor the knowledge to
adjust
the band properly. You dont know whether this has anything to do with the
problem or not.

Find an honest tranny specialist (if you can) and have him or her check
this out, before you find yourself walking.

Basically, not worth it. $300 car.

The problem was jolting during the shift from 1-2. Manual said adjust the
band. I went to just where it gave resistance and backed off. Spec was 18
Ft Lbs, but the space was too small for my torque wrench.

Drive it till it drops, then buy another...I have an '05 Scion tC and an
'88 Supra, and an '89 Mazda to fall back on...

 

[Ph@Boy]

Fired up the Subaru, went for a ride, about a mile from home the tranny
started binding..again...pulled over and it shifted to first and ran fine
aftger that...

WTF?!?!?!

(if you didn't see the other post, I adjusted the brake band on a Suby 3AT
auto trans to stop it from jumping when shifting from 1-2. Shifts great
now, just binds <1 mile and then runs fine...)

I don't know how you adjusted the band, but all transmission bands are
adjusted basically like a brake shoe, meaning, with the same idea in
mind of a brake drum that barely drags on the shoes when adjusted correctly.

If you still suspect the band, it's probably the band servo leaking or
binding. Sometimes a chore to change out, depending on the transmission.

Check the governor for any binding. Sometimes plastic components can
wear enough to cause it.

Did you notice any plastic debris in the pan when you removed it?

Just some thoughts.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

I don't know how you adjusted the band, but all transmission bands are
adjusted basically like a brake shoe, meaning, with the same idea in mind
of a brake drum that barely drags on the shoes when adjusted correctly.

If you still suspect the band, it's probably the band servo leaking or
binding. Sometimes a chore to change out, depending on the transmission.

Check the governor for any binding. Sometimes plastic components can wear
enough to cause it.

Did you notice any plastic debris in the pan when you removed it?

Just some thoughts.

Well, the thing was working fine before I adjusted it. The only thing was,
it would jolt from 1st to 2nd, and you really had to slame the throttle to
get it to kick-down.

I found this:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1f/03/25/0900823d801f0325/repairInfoPages.htm

("Brake Band Adjustment")

I found out this is right from the Subaru repair manual.
I didn't have a torque wrench that would fit, so I went until it just
started to tighten and then backed off. It was so tight the car would
barely move.

I did it again, again going just tight, and then backed off 1 full turn.
Still tight. I backed off some more and it felt better; the jolting was
gone and the kick-down was fine. But now it gives me the binding problem;
when it shifts back to first the binding goes away and it drives normal...

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

You are obviously not a car mechanic. Why are you working on this car? Is
it a hobby, like a Frankenstein guitar you experiment on, but really don't
use for gigs because you have no idea whether it'll make it through 3
songs?

Yup.

But I manage to fix about 90% of the things that go wrong with my cars.
Maybe if we didn't fart around with the political bullshit and actually
talked cars, I could increase it to 99%.

 

[JoeSpareBedroom]

Well, the thing was working fine before I adjusted it. The only thing was,
it would jolt from 1st to 2nd, and you really had to slame the throttle to
get it to kick-down.

In other words, it was NOT working fine, you knucklehead!!!

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Basically, not worth it. $300 car.

The problem was jolting during the shift from 1-2. Manual said adjust the
band. I went to just where it gave resistance and backed off. Spec was 18
Ft Lbs, but the space was too small for my torque wrench.

Drive it till it drops, then buy another...I have an '05 Scion tC and an
'88 Supra, and an '89 Mazda to fall back on...

You could try posting over at www.ultimatesubaru.org . Some of those
guys are pretty successful at keeping older Subes on the road.


Carl

 

[Ph@Boy]

Well, the thing was working fine before I adjusted it. The only thing was,
it would jolt from 1st to 2nd, and you really had to slame the throttle to
get it to kick-down.

I found this:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1f/03/25/0900823d801f0325/repairInfoPages.htm

("Brake Band Adjustment")

I found out this is right from the Subaru repair manual.
I didn't have a torque wrench that would fit, so I went until it just
started to tighten and then backed off. It was so tight the car would
barely move.

I did it again, again going just tight, and then backed off 1 full turn.
Still tight. I backed off some more and it felt better; the jolting was
gone and the kick-down was fine. But now it gives me the binding problem;
when it shifts back to first the binding goes away and it drives normal...

I read the link Hachi and I believe you would get a better result in
removing the pan, and visually making sure that the band is barely
dragging on the drum. That 1/4 turn either way statement can be the
difference sometimes.

I know it's a bit of a pain to remove the pan but I'm almost certain
that you will be able to see a part, if not most of the band.

While on your back and the car in neutral, use your foot to rotate the
drive wheel tire. You can see and feel the adjustment as you move the
adjuster screw. I've done this lots of times, but not on a Subaru.

When it just barely drags is the best adjustment. You can also check out
the contents of the pan and the band itself for wear and the band servo
operation as well.

It sounds like you almost have it fixed.

 

[Mike]

Basically, not worth it. $300 car.

The problem was jolting during the shift from 1-2. Manual said adjust the
band. I went to just where it gave resistance and backed off. Spec was 18
Ft Lbs, but the space was too small for my torque wrench.

Don't know if it helps or not but 18 Ft Lbs would be the same torque as a
properly tightened spark plug.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

I read the link Hachi and I believe you would get a better result in
removing the pan, and visually making sure that the band is barely
dragging on the drum. That 1/4 turn either way statement can be the
difference sometimes.

Tomorrow is supposed to be nice. I think I'll have a look...

I know it's a bit of a pain to remove the pan but I'm almost certain that
you will be able to see a part, if not most of the band.

Actually, on this car it's right out in the open. I'll have to see if I
can get a gasket first. Some parts are plentiful, and others...

Of course, there's alway FIPG!!! Worked on the Supra just fine.

While on your back and the car in neutral, use your foot to rotate the
drive wheel tire. You can see and feel the adjustment as you move the
adjuster screw. I've done this lots of times, but not on a Subaru.

There's 4 of them!!! Actually, it's selectable, but in order to get there,
it has to go up on ramps.

When it just barely drags is the best adjustment. You can also check out
the contents of the pan and the band itself for wear and the band servo
operation as well.

It sounds like you almost have it fixed.

Thanks! I didn't understand how this really worked, but I see (er,
understand) now! Kind of like the drag belt on a machine tool. Knowing how
something works sure makes it easier. I'm lucky, I have a vivid
imagination and can visualize very well. Now I have an idea what I'm
looking for.

It may be I tightened it so much that it catches somewhere and when the
trans goes back to first it frees it and 'realigns' it to where it's
supposed to be. If I get done early tomorrow, I'll have a look.

This car only really gets used in snow and for trips to the grocery store.
Once the snow stops for good, the plate comes off and goes on the Supra,
so I'll have all summer. But thanks again!

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

In other words, it was NOT working fine, you knucklehead!!!

Well...it wasn't binding, and the car rolled well, it was just jolting.

When I first put the car on the road, the "Hillholder" was working well,
but after 4,000 miles (YES! 4,000 miles from Jan 2 to March 3!!!) it
wasn't holding on even small inclines.

And it wasn't jolting, either, but the shifts were sort of smooth. The
shifts are REALLY smooth now.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

Don't know if it helps or not but 18 Ft Lbs would be the same torque as
a
properly tightened spark plug.

I didn't even go that tight!

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

You could try posting over at www.ultimatesubaru.org . Some of those guys
are pretty successful at keeping older Subes on the road.


Carl

You keep telling me this, and I keep forgetting it! Yeah, I'll have a look
and bookmark it!

 

[Ph@Boy]

Tomorrow is supposed to be nice. I think I'll have a look...




Actually, on this car it's right out in the open. I'll have to see if I
can get a gasket first. Some parts are plentiful, and others...

Of course, there's alway FIPG!!! Worked on the Supra just fine.



There's 4 of them!!! Actually, it's selectable, but in order to get there,
it has to go up on ramps.




Thanks! I didn't understand how this really worked, but I see (er,
understand) now! Kind of like the drag belt on a machine tool. Knowing how
something works sure makes it easier. I'm lucky, I have a vivid
imagination and can visualize very well. Now I have an idea what I'm
looking for.

It may be I tightened it so much that it catches somewhere and when the
trans goes back to first it frees it and 'realigns' it to where it's
supposed to be. If I get done early tomorrow, I'll have a look.

This car only really gets used in snow and for trips to the grocery store.
Once the snow stops for good, the plate comes off and goes on the Supra,
so I'll have all summer. But thanks again!

You're welcome, be careful under the car.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

You're welcome, be careful under the car.

ALWAYS!!!!!

I still have a certain amount of 'fear' getting under a car, so I use
either two sets of stands and two jacks, or ramps and chocks. NEVER under
a jack alone!!!

 

[Ray O]

Fired up the Subaru, went for a ride, about a mile from home the tranny
started binding..again...pulled over and it shifted to first and ran fine
aftger that...

WTF?!?!?!

(if you didn't see the other post, I adjusted the brake band on a Suby 3AT
auto trans to stop it from jumping when shifting from 1-2. Shifts great
now, just binds <1 mile and then runs fine...)

When you say "jumping" or "jolting" do you mean like a harsh shift? Harsh
shifts can be caused by bad accumulators, which are usually under the
transmission pan.

 

[Mike Romain]

It is more than obvious to most folks I think that you need a torque
wrench for this job like the book says. A torque wrench is going to be
cheaper than a pan gasket kit I'll bet and that gasket kit is going to
be a waste of time and money because the band 'still' will need to be
torqued properly to work. Maybe you will find something else wrong
inside, but again, the band 'still' will need to be torqued properly to
work!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

 

[HLS]

It is more than obvious to most folks I think that you need a torque
wrench for this job like the book says. A torque wrench is going to be
cheaper than a pan gasket kit I'll bet and that gasket kit is going to be
a waste of time and money because the band 'still' will need to be torqued
properly to work. Maybe you will find something else wrong inside, but
again, the band 'still' will need to be torqued properly to work!

Sometimes Autozone will have tools, perhaps torque wrenches included, which
they
will lend with a deposit, and reimburse when you bring it back. Maybe this
would
be a way to proceed.