D
Dean Hoffman
John said:
I was looking at the online recommended list for small SUVs.
I was looking at the online recommended list for small SUVs.
D
DK
I guess some people don't like changes. She drove manual
all here life. I don't feel nearly as strongly but I also think
that manual offers considerably more control over the car.
D
DK
OK, went to an independent mechanic today. Got more info,
the issue not exacttly resolved:
- Dealership guys said "a lot of oil in the coolant'. The other
mechanic looked and said he couldn't find any evidence of the
oil. I tend to agree for there is absolutely nothing visible and
immiscible with antifreeze. He says when oil is in the coolant,
the rubber hone going into coolant tank swells a lot and there
is foam on a radiator cap. No evidence of any of that. Also,
coolant level remained at the same exact level for the past
15,000 miles the car has been leaking oil.
- Dealer claimed there is coolant leaking outside, staining
something on the engine. I know 100% for sure that there
was never a single antifreeze drop on my garage floor. The
independent guy couldn't see any signs of dried coolant.
- The top of the head gasket is totally dry, the bottom on both
sides has slight oil wetness around it. Maybe a few
millimeters going both sides. The mechanic said it's not
what he'd consider head hasket leak that requires a fix.
I guess he has a pretty lax disposition about these things.
In his words, when a head gasket leaks on Subarus, the
whole bottom of the car tends to be covered in oil. He said
he wouldn't at this point touch it even if it were his own
car.
- To me, this sounds like there is definitely a small leak
in the head gasket. Whether it is serious to account for the
car losing oild so that it gets to the minimum oil level
on a dispstick after about 2500-3000 miles, I don't know.
The mechanic said that there might be a leak elsewhere
but he could't tell where it is coming from. Sounds strange
to me.
Overall, his recommendation was to drive normally, monitor
oil level carefully and only start worrying and come back if
any of the following becomes true:
- Losing oil much faster;
- Oil in the coolant;
- Sweet smell from the exhaust;
- Overheating.
This certainly works for me, for I am not thrilled with the
prospect of $2K repair but I am still a bit uneasy for the
oil leak not fully diagnozed and still not exactly sure if there
is any danger in driving with very small head gasket leak.
- Dima
P.S. Turns out the dealership guys overfilled oil slightly when
changing it yesterday. Maybe 0.5 cm above maximum level
on a dipstick. Serious enough to bother with or not?
the issue not exacttly resolved:
- Dealership guys said "a lot of oil in the coolant'. The other
mechanic looked and said he couldn't find any evidence of the
oil. I tend to agree for there is absolutely nothing visible and
immiscible with antifreeze. He says when oil is in the coolant,
the rubber hone going into coolant tank swells a lot and there
is foam on a radiator cap. No evidence of any of that. Also,
coolant level remained at the same exact level for the past
15,000 miles the car has been leaking oil.
- Dealer claimed there is coolant leaking outside, staining
something on the engine. I know 100% for sure that there
was never a single antifreeze drop on my garage floor. The
independent guy couldn't see any signs of dried coolant.
- The top of the head gasket is totally dry, the bottom on both
sides has slight oil wetness around it. Maybe a few
millimeters going both sides. The mechanic said it's not
what he'd consider head hasket leak that requires a fix.
I guess he has a pretty lax disposition about these things.
In his words, when a head gasket leaks on Subarus, the
whole bottom of the car tends to be covered in oil. He said
he wouldn't at this point touch it even if it were his own
car.
- To me, this sounds like there is definitely a small leak
in the head gasket. Whether it is serious to account for the
car losing oild so that it gets to the minimum oil level
on a dispstick after about 2500-3000 miles, I don't know.
The mechanic said that there might be a leak elsewhere
but he could't tell where it is coming from. Sounds strange
to me.
Overall, his recommendation was to drive normally, monitor
oil level carefully and only start worrying and come back if
any of the following becomes true:
- Losing oil much faster;
- Oil in the coolant;
- Sweet smell from the exhaust;
- Overheating.
This certainly works for me, for I am not thrilled with the
prospect of $2K repair but I am still a bit uneasy for the
oil leak not fully diagnozed and still not exactly sure if there
is any danger in driving with very small head gasket leak.
- Dima
P.S. Turns out the dealership guys overfilled oil slightly when
changing it yesterday. Maybe 0.5 cm above maximum level
on a dipstick. Serious enough to bother with or not?
1
1 Lucky Texan
Kinda good news, comparatively, I suppose. And I think you found a
dealership that may have been trying to generate some business.
I once had a car that leaked oil from a bad oil pressure sensor/
switch. Sprayed/misted oil when driving such that it blew all under
the car and I would get little drips form multiple places when parked.
No single puddle.
Thanx for updating us!
1
1 Lucky Texan
2011 Forester will have the H4 with a timing chain.
Also, check what kind of loaner vehicles the Suzuki service department
has. You'll be driving those a LOT if you own a Suzuki.
B
Big Jim
I'd trust a Suzuki- In the first 3 years of ownership my Outback
reuired a new windshield washer nozzle, a new front strut and a C/V
joint boot. All were warranty or extended warranty claims and little
out of pocket. In the forst three years of ownership the Kia Sedona
has only had a plugged sunroof drain. My subaru has served me well
but now at 7years old and 94kmiles it really feels old. Any gaslet
leaks would be covered under suzuki or kia's warranty. The most
trouble prone vehicles I've dealt with were a 92 Dodge Datona and a
2001.5 VWPassat.
..
reuired a new windshield washer nozzle, a new front strut and a C/V
joint boot. All were warranty or extended warranty claims and little
out of pocket. In the forst three years of ownership the Kia Sedona
has only had a plugged sunroof drain. My subaru has served me well
but now at 7years old and 94kmiles it really feels old. Any gaslet
leaks would be covered under suzuki or kia's warranty. The most
trouble prone vehicles I've dealt with were a 92 Dodge Datona and a
2001.5 VWPassat.
Th>
..
C
clare
A quart of oil in 3000 miles????
That is FAR from excessive oil consumption.
What oil are you using???
Mileage on the car??
If there is no oil in the antifreeze and no oil spots on the driveway
someone saw you coming and thought you were an easy mark.
No problem.
C
clare
The infamous "oil pisser" switch ;}
Was a common problem on Toyotas of the seventies era, as well as
Chryslers of the same vintage. (and not uncommon on many other models
either)
D
DK
Oh, there is definitely oil on a garage floor. Right now the milage
is 75400 (this is 2002 car; mostly city driving). The leaks started
at 60,000, the day I took the car back from dealer's maintenance.
I attribute oil loss to the leak because right up to 60K the oil
level would hardly change over 5000 miles intervals (no more
than half-way between max ands min level).
Oil is regular 5W30. Dealer uses Mobile, the independent mechanic
uses what he calls "semi-synthetic" Pennzoil.
Dima
C
clare
If it didn't leak before the service and leaks now I'd be taking a
close look at the oil filter and the train plug. Both can leak, and
both would have been removed/changed at that service.
IF it is actually using oil rather than leaking it, a 10W40 will burn
slower and be fine in warmer weather. (personally I'm not a fan of
Pennzoil, but it may have been a low quality Pennzoil that severely
coloured my opinion)
Do have your mechanic check the oil pressure switch for leakage, as
well as the cam-box cover gaskets.
D
DK
First thing I did when discovered the leak. Thought they didn't change
the washer. Nope, no leak there.
Will do, thanks!
A
AS
Still need to find a manual transmission that failed in the middle of
the road for causes other than abuse or lack of oil. The clutch will
last depending on the way the car is driven.
As for auto transmissions, I have seen them fail frequently, in many
cars, like camry, fords taurus, nissan maxima, subaru legacy sw,
infinity, etc. Subaru had problems with automatic transmissions to the
point the local dealer with stack them in the transport crates by the shop.
An auto transmission will withstand better to aggressive driving. On
the other hand, towing capacity seems to be better for AT cars.
Just my opinion.
the road for causes other than abuse or lack of oil. The clutch will
last depending on the way the car is driven.
As for auto transmissions, I have seen them fail frequently, in many
cars, like camry, fords taurus, nissan maxima, subaru legacy sw,
infinity, etc. Subaru had problems with automatic transmissions to the
point the local dealer with stack them in the transport crates by the shop.
An auto transmission will withstand better to aggressive driving. On
the other hand, towing capacity seems to be better for AT cars.
Just my opinion.
C
clare
From MANY years experience, the VAST majority of automatic
transmisssion failures are due to NEGLECT.
The fluid NEEDS to be changed regualarly, and the proper fluid used.
A
AS
Correction: A manual transmission will withstand better to aggressive
driving...
From many years of experience, and having repaired quite a few,
automatic transmissions fail because they are more prone to fail. Many
cases of one the many seals in the hydraulic system in the transmission
failing because of wear and seal degradation, this is normal for dynamic
seals; they also fail because of sensors, solenoids, brake band wear,
control valve wear, mechanical failures, etc. Just look at the TSBs
from the manufacturers and see how many deal with auto trannys and how
many with manuals. If you have access to a product such as AllData you
can see by yourself.
My 1995 Legacy SW failed because the oil pump cover in the AT had worn
out to the point where the reverse hub seals would not seal on it. When
I got the spare from Subaru, I realized that it had sharp edges left
from the manufacturing process. These were consistent with the galling
present in the part I was replacing. In this particular case, there was
no problem with the oil.
At the same time, when cleaning the
control valve body, I realized that the plate in this valve, against
which the ball bearings seated, was paper thin and in need of being
replaced. The part was not sold by itself and the whole valve was
around $900 bucks at the time.
Yes you are right, the fluid needs to be changed and the right fluid has
to be used. The silly part is that most industrial hydraulic systems
have replaceable filters, not just suction strainers; automatic
transmissions for the most part, do not.
driving...
From many years of experience, and having repaired quite a few,
automatic transmissions fail because they are more prone to fail. Many
cases of one the many seals in the hydraulic system in the transmission
failing because of wear and seal degradation, this is normal for dynamic
seals; they also fail because of sensors, solenoids, brake band wear,
control valve wear, mechanical failures, etc. Just look at the TSBs
from the manufacturers and see how many deal with auto trannys and how
many with manuals. If you have access to a product such as AllData you
can see by yourself.
My 1995 Legacy SW failed because the oil pump cover in the AT had worn
out to the point where the reverse hub seals would not seal on it. When
I got the spare from Subaru, I realized that it had sharp edges left
from the manufacturing process. These were consistent with the galling
present in the part I was replacing. In this particular case, there was
no problem with the oil.
At the same time, when cleaning thecontrol valve body, I realized that the plate in this valve, against
which the ball bearings seated, was paper thin and in need of being
replaced. The part was not sold by itself and the whole valve was
around $900 bucks at the time.
Yes you are right, the fluid needs to be changed and the right fluid has
to be used. The silly part is that most industrial hydraulic systems
have replaceable filters, not just suction strainers; automatic
transmissions for the most part, do not.