does anyone use K&N air filters?

[Philip Procter]

I've also noticed a large increase in noise when I added a cold air
intake + oiled filter. I don't really like the noise. Is there any way
to eliminate or minimize it?

PP

 

[Mike]

So if you change your filter every 30,000 miles like the service intervals
recommends. And you pay $48 for a K&N and another $15 for the cleaning
kit.And lets not forget if you buy it online you will pay for shipping and
if you buy it at Advance they sell the K&N for my car for $56 + tax. But i
wont add in the shipping or the jacked up price at your local parts store or
the tax to keep it simple So...You spent $63. Now you go buy an $8 puralotor
filter and change it every 30,000 miles. Advance sells it for $7.97 but
I'll round up. So that means you can change the filter 8 times with the
puralator or 240,000 miles on your 8th change. and you save $1. So come your
9th change of the filter you would see a total savings of $9.I put 15,000
miles on my car a year. So i would see a $9 savings on air filters after 18
years. And by then my car has 270,000 miles on it. Who keeps a car that long
? I may even be dead by then .I aint the smartest guy in the world and no
mathAmagician maybe my math is off ..but shit I'll just pay the $8 every 2
years and spend the 45 seconds to change it.




We can debate performance gains but the cost savings of cleaning make
it worthwhile

 

[Rick Courtright]

I've also noticed a large increase in noise when I added a cold air
intake + oiled filter. I don't really like the noise. Is there any way
to eliminate or minimize it?

Hi, Philip

The "smart aleck" answer is to go back to the stock setup.

But if we analyze that just a bit, we find that over the last 50 years
or so, a tremendous amount of engineering has been done to "quiet" cars
in many, many areas. The air intake is one area that illustrates the
"compromise" function of so much engineering.

Sometimes it takes just a little change in the design of the intake
horn, such as the tapered shape many went to back when the intake to the
air filter housing was but a short metal tube. When I was in high school
in the early '60s, it was popular to remove that tube, thinking there
was restriction in the system that would be removed by allowing a larger
"hole" for the air to enter. Whether more air really got in or not is
arguable, but it was no secret that the noise level usually increased at
least a little.

Over the years, we've seen a move to more "cold air" type intakes w/
hose/piping arrangements that bring the air from the front of the car,
typically near an air intake for the radiator so it's not going to be
pre-heated in the engine compartment, and may possibly enjoy a bit of
"ram" effect at speed. One thing we see w/ many of these systems is some
odd looking bends and/or "accordion pleats" along the intake. Some are
obviously there to help the fit of the various bits, but at least some
have some noise attenuating value.

Going back to an aftermarket cold air system like the K&N, I'd venture a
guess they're developed w/ air flow as the primary goal, and noise is a
"necessary evil" in the design. The only way I can think of to "quiet"
the system w/o compromising the internal flow would be to wrap the outer
surfaces in some kind of sound deadening material. The result would be
almost certainly ugly from a visual standpoint, and it's hard to say w/o
actually doing it whether any improvement in noise level would be
noticed.

However, as my neighbor noticed, as did I the first time I rode in his
car for an extended time, one quickly adjusts to "normal" background
noises and tends to block them out. So I'd suggest your system will
treat you the same: the time will come when you don't even "hear" it at
all so you won't have to scrap it or do any modifications!

Good luck!

Rick

 

[nobody >]

I've also noticed a large increase in noise when I added a cold air
intake + oiled filter. I don't really like the noise. Is there any way
to eliminate or minimize it?

Put the original intake system back on, that's the only wasy to kill the
noise. Did you notice some bulbous appendages on the OEM intake
ductwork? That's part of the noise canceling system, as well as some
intake performance tuning. Unless you are doing some serious racing,
there's no gain from the cold air intake.

 

[clare at snyder.on.ca]

Hi,
OBD tuning? Doesn't OBD mean on board diagnostics? What does it have
anything to do with tuning?

OBD2, more-so than previous systems,fine-tunes the engine as it goes
to compensate for the restrictioon of a plugged air filter.
Yes, some earlier EFI was as effective, or very close. Carbureted
engines were a different story.
OBD2 seamlessly blens the timing and mixture.

When trouble occurs, ECU puts the engine in
default mode(limp mode) at least to get you moving with CEL on.
ECU has a limit, any filter has a limit. Even HEPA filter is not 100%.
I am sure reusable filter is economical for long run. It's matter of how
to use it. I never heard K&N filter caused engine damage. Did you?
Way back, oil bath filter was very common. Some even used toilet paper
roll in lieu of regular paper filter. In over 50 years driving I never
suffered an engine damage due to poor maintenance. I always keep my
vehicles in original condition. My rule of thumb to replace a car.
When it starts leaking oil. It happens when the car is around 10 years
old. I donate it to Kidney foundation, then go out buy new one with
cash saved over during that 10 years.

Oil bath is STILL the most effective method of air filtering - BAR
NONE. Just too heavy, bulky, and service intensive for today's
owners/drivers.

I buy cars with 100,000km on them and put another 150,000 or so. Or
like my current van, bought with 275,000km on it.#62,000 on it now.

 

[Clamstrippe Fecadunker]

On 2007-12-22 03:08:23 -0800, "coaster" <(e-mail address removed)> said:

i am considering one for 2005 Forester ... are these air filters worth the
money?
==========

I put a K&N on my STi and shortly thereafter read that the oil
used on the filter can cause permanent damage the mass air flow sensor,
which is inches "downwind" of the filter.  For me even partial malfunction
of the MAF is unacceptable.  Fortunately a company called AEM has
a new technology dry filter that requires no oil and is easier to clean
than the K&N.  Plus you don't have to buy the K&N oil.

To me, the value is not having to find the right part at a parts store
at every change (I change my air filter at each oil change, I live
in a very dusty area) but the simplicity of keeping two washable air filters,
one clean and ready to go, and the other on the car.

The performance gain of K&N is well documented.  The AEM filters
claim to have the similar flow and filtration.

Good luck

 

[StephenW]

http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm
I will stick with a oem. It's time consuming to get the charts up but read
the test