Converting from belt-driven fan to electric fan

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

drive like there is an egg between your foot and the accelerator pedal
and you will save much more fuel.

Where's the fun in that?!?!?!

Actually, it is a 3-speed AT (and I *MEAN* 3-speed!!!)
It tends to get into top gear rather quickly, and stays there even if you
almost stop for yield signs.

I'm getting varying fuel economy. For the 'paper route' it gets about 23,
unless I have to use AWD when it snows/ices, where it drops to ~20. For
open road driving (I rarely drive >50 MPH, since it's spinning at ~3,700
RPM) it squeaks out 25-26. It hasn't been run for a while and had crap gas
in it, so it gets better the more it's driven.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

About that last suggestion, Steve: We are joined at the hip with that
statement. But how can one drive like there is an egg on the accelerator
without having the vehicle behind you end up in your back seat?

I live in a rural area and drive it mostly at night!

But, like I said, where's the fun in that?!?!

Two of the other cars I have on the road: 1988 Supra Sport Roof (no Turbo)
and 2005 Scion tC. Vrooom, Vrooom!

One car I have not on the road: 1985 Corolla GTS...VROOOOOOM....

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

It is a paradigm thing. Until folks get used to changing the ways that
they have driven for all these years with cheap gas, they will continue to
be annoyed by folks that drive with less lead-footedness. Eventually they
will change with the rest or they will continue to be annoyed (not my
problem) and continue to lose money on gas.
Tomes
(back from the Usenet dead)

And a good thing! Where ya been?

And if you remember, I am a bit of an 'enthusiast' (er, about as
enthusiastic as you can get with an 1800 and a 3-speed AT...)

But because of where I live and how I drive, I usually manage better than
usual mileage anyway.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

I'm not suggesting you do 15 in a 45

Like Prius drivers?

 

[Jeff]

Where's the fun in that?!?!?!

Why does everything have to be fun?

 

[Bob M.]

Yeah, I was thinking about one of these, too. There are a couple (a few?)
types; one that replaces the dipstick, one that installs as a metal sleeve
in the radiator hose, and another that replaces a feeze plug. Which one?
Which one???

Definitely not the dipstick heater. Waste of money.

A freeze plug heater is pretty good for most people, but make sure you don't
punch the freeze plug back into the block. On vehicles where you can
specify a block heater when you order it, usually it is a freeze plug type.
This is one of the options that cost less to buy initially than to have it
done in a shop after you buy the car. That & they're a pain in the butt to
install due to lack of space. My old (2005) Chevy full-size van was ordered
with one, and GM now sees fit to install every block heater with a
thermostat on the power wire. The heater won't work above 0 F. If you get
one without a t-stat and have it on all night, you'll have warm air coming
out of the vents in short order. With a t-stat, it's just "warm enough to
start".

The one that's a metal sleeve in the radiator hose sounds like a tank-type
circulation heater, which is for Arctic conditions. That's an
industrial-strength heater. Unlike the freeze-plug heater (which relies on
convection), this one has a little heater & pump that runs all the time
you're plugged in.

 

[Scott in Florida]

Definitely not the dipstick heater. Waste of money.

A freeze plug heater is pretty good for most people, but make sure you don't
punch the freeze plug back into the block. On vehicles where you can
specify a block heater when you order it, usually it is a freeze plug type.
This is one of the options that cost less to buy initially than to have it
done in a shop after you buy the car. That & they're a pain in the butt to
install due to lack of space. My old (2005) Chevy full-size van was ordered
with one, and GM now sees fit to install every block heater with a
thermostat on the power wire. The heater won't work above 0 F. If you get
one without a t-stat and have it on all night, you'll have warm air coming
out of the vents in short order. With a t-stat, it's just "warm enough to
start".

The one that's a metal sleeve in the radiator hose sounds like a tank-type
circulation heater, which is for Arctic conditions. That's an
industrial-strength heater. Unlike the freeze-plug heater (which relies on
convection), this one has a little heater & pump that runs all the time
you're plugged in.

Perhaps the best solution is the one I made in 1979......

 

[Ray O]

Yeah, I was thinking about one of these, too. There are a couple (a few?)
types; one that replaces the dipstick, one that installs as a metal sleeve
in the radiator hose, and another that replaces a feeze plug. Which one?
Which one???

I would use the dipstick or freeze plug kind. The kind that installes in
the radiator hose is not warming up the coolant that will circulate when the
car is cold started.[/QUOTE]

 

[EdV]

Why does everything have to be fun?

Aren't you the same guy who always want people to get a life?

 

[Jeff]

Aren't you the same guy who always want people to get a life?

Getting a life doesn't mean wasting resources. I also suggest they take
the subway, bus or other public transit, walk or take a bicycle, too.

Jeff

 

[Hachiroku]

Perhaps the best solution is the one I made in 1979......

But, I'm too young for FLA!!!

 

[Hachiroku]

Why does everything have to be fun?

Um, you're kidding, right?

 

[Hachiroku]

Getting a life doesn't mean wasting resources. I also suggest they take
the subway, bus or other public transit, walk or take a bicycle, too.

Jeff

That's why I drive cars that get better than average fuel economy.

 

[EdV]

That's why I drive cars that get better than average fuel economy.

Maybe your subaru may get better mpg and power once you switch to a
electric fan. Belt driven fans uses the engines power, I'm not sure if
the alternator would work much more when you use an electric fan

 

[Ray O]

Maybe your subaru may get better mpg and power once you switch to a
electric fan. Belt driven fans uses the engines power, I'm not sure if
the alternator would work much more when you use an electric fan

There probably is not much of a difference in parasitic loss between a belt
or engine driven fan and electrically driven cooling fans. Electric fans
cost more to install than one mounted on the front of the engine, but they
are pretty much the only choice for vehicles with transverse-mounted
engines, since a fan at the side of the engine compartment wouldn't do much.

 

[EdV]

There probably is not much of a difference in parasitic loss between a belt
or engine driven fan and electrically driven cooling fans. Electric fans
cost more to install than one mounted on the front of the engine, but they
are pretty much the only choice for vehicles with transverse-mounted
engines, since a fan at the side of the engine compartment wouldn't do much.

On my previously owned BMW E34, it had the belt driven fan and 2
auxiliary fans. I hear the auxiliary fans turn on many times that's
why I assume that the aux fans do most of the work. The aux fans had a
normal and high speed. I do remember replacing my fan clutch years
ago. I was thinking the fan connected to the engine didn't work as
much so as not to draw power from the engine. My aunt had a Toyota
with a 4Y engine many years ago. I'm pretty sure it had both belt fan
and aux electric fans but I'm not sure which fan did much of the
cooling. However since they are called "auxiliary" I would assume they
are just for supplemental cooling.

 

[rantonrave]

Something as simple as a paper bag partially covering the radiator works
well.

Back in Montana, we called that the "Safeway Thermostat", and it does
work when the temperature has a (-) in front of it.

It would probably make a generation A1 VW Golf/Rabbit GTI overheat in
Manitoba in January.

 

[Ray O]

On my previously owned BMW E34, it had the belt driven fan and 2
auxiliary fans. I hear the auxiliary fans turn on many times that's
why I assume that the aux fans do most of the work. The aux fans had a
normal and high speed. I do remember replacing my fan clutch years
ago. I was thinking the fan connected to the engine didn't work as
much so as not to draw power from the engine. My aunt had a Toyota
with a 4Y engine many years ago. I'm pretty sure it had both belt fan
and aux electric fans but I'm not sure which fan did much of the
cooling. However since they are called "auxiliary" I would assume they
are just for supplemental cooling.

Obviously, designers use auxiliary electric fans if the engine-driven fan
doesn't move sufficient air through the radiator and/or air conditioning
condenser. You would probably see this arrangement if the radiator and air
conditioning condenser has a relatively small surface area, like when the
front opening is small, especially in cars with air conditioners.

I believe that in the U.S., the Toyota 4Y engine was used in the first
generation vans and is still used in forklifts. I doubt if your aunt owned
a forklift, so I'll assume that she had the first generation van. The first
generation van had a mid-engine layout mounted behind the front wheels,
under the front passenger seats. The location meant that an engine-mounted
fan would not draw air through the radiator, so additional electric cooling
fans were mounted on the radiator to draw air through it.

 

[Steve W.]

On my previously owned BMW E34, it had the belt driven fan and 2
auxiliary fans. I hear the auxiliary fans turn on many times that's
why I assume that the aux fans do most of the work. The aux fans had a
normal and high speed. I do remember replacing my fan clutch years
ago. I was thinking the fan connected to the engine didn't work as
much so as not to draw power from the engine. My aunt had a Toyota
with a 4Y engine many years ago. I'm pretty sure it had both belt fan
and aux electric fans but I'm not sure which fan did much of the
cooling. However since they are called "auxiliary" I would assume they
are just for supplemental cooling.

Most of the auxiliary fans are there to provide better airflow over the
AC condenser unit than the engine driven fan can provide at lower
speeds. They are also used in vehicles that have poor airflow
characteristics due to the body design or aerodynamic styling.
On vehicles with small engines they are also used to save some engine power.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Life is not like a box of chocolates
it's more like a jar of jalapenos-
what you do today could burn your ass tomorrow!

 

[Hachiroku]

Maybe your subaru may get better mpg and power once you switch to a
electric fan. Belt driven fans uses the engines power, I'm not sure if
the alternator would work much more when you use an electric fan

Hmmmm...I mentioned before this is the only 'beater' I have that has a
working R-12 A/C.

It's also the only beater I have that won't see roads in the summertime
(the plate will be coming off it and going back on the Supra...)

So, it's a Winter-only car. I really don't need a fan running all the
time, and when you stop the car for a while and leave the engine running,
it really draws down the engine temp...almost to cold. So losing the
belt-driven fan won't really be too hard to take. I bet the thing hasn't
'turned on' for at least two weeks...