Buying Used Outback - Advice appreciated

[bigjim]

Well you just go right on and do that.....but this guy wants to buy a
Subaru<<

I'd be leery of buying a 5 year old subaru with 80k miles- here's why.
I loved my 04 OBW I bought new for a while. Now at two years old with
64k miles the suspunsion is loose and sloppy . I had a front strut blow
and be replaced already. I'll have it checked when I take it in for 90k
service and see if I can get any thing replaced under extended
warranty. Mechanically its fine but I'm not sure if this will be a
"keeper". When the toyota FJ cruiser comes out or a 4 door wrangler I
think I'll lose the outback.

 

[Bugalugs]

Subaru<<

I'd be leery of buying a 5 year old subaru with 80k miles- here's why.
I loved my 04 OBW I bought new for a while. Now at two years old with
64k miles the suspunsion is loose and sloppy . I had a front strut blow
and be replaced already. I'll have it checked when I take it in for 90k
service and see if I can get any thing replaced under extended
warranty. Mechanically its fine but I'm not sure if this will be a
"keeper". When the toyota FJ cruiser comes out or a 4 door wrangler I
think I'll lose the outback.

I bought a 6year old used JDM 1990 Legacy GT wagon with 60K on the
clock. Kept it 10 years and put on another 100K. Repairs were: both
boots on the front outer CV joints, cam belt and both rear shocks, (as a
result of frequent excessive overloading). There was no rust and it was
tight as a drum. Only reason for sale was to replace it with a 03 model
GT with 95K. I would have no hesitation in buying a used Subaru. The
initial depreciation hit has been taken by someone else and any minor
bugs have been ironed out.

Oh, the motor which drives the right rear window kaarked it. Replaced it
with one from a wrecker. (prick of a job)

 

[Guest]

A momo is an idiot who pays nearly the cost of a new car for a used
one. Remember, a used car is just that. You dont know he maintenance or
any issues that plagued this car from the get go. Most people keep
Subarus for over 100k miles so those with lower miles must have a
reason for their being on sale. I'm sorry- paying 4k more over four or
five years is no big deal to get a brand new car. Used cars are for
suckers IMOas that is where dealers really make their money.

Used cars can be very good or very bad buys.
Of course it all depends on condition, mileage and price.
You are correct that $4k less is not a good deal for a several years old
car.

Of course for those with lots of money a new car is best,
but don't forget that the early bugs are usually out of a used car.

 

[bigjim]

Of course for those with lots of money a new car is best,
but don't forget that the early bugs are usually out of a used car. <<

The early problems are usually minor and always warranteed. The things
that go after 70k miles are more expensive and a used car usually has
no warranty. I prefer new since then I know the maintenance and
service history. Once its paid off I usually drive a car for another 4
or 5 years so there are no payments.

 

[Michael Pardee]

but don't forget that the early bugs are usually out of a used car. <<

The early problems are usually minor and always warranteed. The things
that go after 70k miles are more expensive and a used car usually has
no warranty. I prefer new since then I know the maintenance and
service history. Once its paid off I usually drive a car for another 4
or 5 years so there are no payments.

I have an entirely different approach: I prefer cars with 100K miles or
more, or at least 80K. At 50K it is hard to tell how the car has been
treated and how it will hold up; at 100K it is hard to hide.

My strategy is based on being a hard-core DIYer. I assume I will have to
replace a timing belt right off the bat, and probably drive axles soon
afterward. Manual trannies may need a clutch, any car may need considerable
brake work. As long as there is no trace of rust in the radiator (I violated
that rule once and paid the considerable price!) and no sludge, little
varnish visible through the oil filler cap I make out very well. The price
is typically at least $10K less than new, even after buying new parts for
the usual, and many expensive parts are available from wrecking yards.

I have had mixed results with new car warranties for the three new cars I've
had in my life. Our Toyota has been well covered and reliable, but I had to
wrangle several times with our '84 Dodge. My daughter in law has paid more
in uncovered repairs on her Kia than she has paid on the car loan.

I thought I could hang up my tools when we bought the '84 Dodge brand new.
Ha! When it failed emissions testing in its fourth year I took it to the
dealer, who kept it for a day and pronounced the carburetor bad: replacement
$660 US. I declined and took the car back home, troubleshooting and fixing
it myself by replacing the fuel pump for $20 US. BTW, that misbegotten
vehicle never made it to 100K miles. The timing chain wore so much it was
striking the cover and the first step in replacement was "remove engine from
car." No mo Mopar for me!

Still, used cars are usually just good choices for DIYers. If I had to take
any of these cars to a mechanic for the fixing up they wouldn't be good
deals at all. For somebody dependent on outside service, I recommend a car
with a good pedigree and a dealer with a reputation for customer service.

Mike

 

[bigjim]

84 was a BAD year for Dodge. By 86 they were much better-

 

[Dan]

Holy cow, this question generated a lot of responses, and I appreciate
the input. I held off on the 2001 OBW w/ 77k miles, and found a 2001 LL
Bean with 50k miles for 12,500. The vehicle is in excellent shape,
complete maint. records, new rubber (Michelins), everything is great. I
wasn't really looking for a Bean but this seemed like a good deal and
I'm pleased with it. The only thing more I'd like is a 5 speed with the
H6; wish Subaru offered that.

 

[Monique Y. Mudama]

but don't forget that the early bugs are usually out of a used car.

The early problems are usually minor and always warranteed. The
things that go after 70k miles are more expensive and a used car
usually has no warranty. I prefer new since then I know the
maintenance and service history. Once its paid off I usually drive
a car for another 4 or 5 years so there are no payments.

Minor, maybe, but ...

I have an almost two year old WRX. It has lots and lots of dash
rattles and miscellaneous interior noises. Minor, right? But
extremely annoying. My car has spent a ton of time in the shop while
they very slowly work at finding the root cause of all these noises.
That's time when I'm not driving the car, but someone else is.

Also, not everyone drives a car for 4 or 5 years past payoff. I tend to
get a wandering eye after 2-3 years, while I'm still making payments.
Of course I know that it's financially more sensible to keep the car,
but that doesn't seem to help matters. I just start wanting something
different. I thought the WRX would be the car I'd keep forever, but now
the Outback is looking pretty good ... Anyway, if you're not going to
keep the car well past the pay schedule, used (or lease) looks pretty
good.

 

[bigjim]

Buy from a dealer that gives loaners!!!! Leasing is for suckers- once
youre hooked you NEVER own anything. I already stated how I feel
about used cars--I wouldnt even consider it. At least for $10k +. New
is always a better bet.

 

[Monique Y. Mudama]

Buy from a dealer that gives loaners!!!!

What does this have to do with anything? And yes, I had a loaner.
It's still not my car, and still an inconvenience.

Leasing is for suckers- once youre hooked you NEVER own anything.

What's your point? If you like newer cars and tend to swap them every
2-3 years, how does "owning" matter? And in any case, you don't truly
own a car for the first few years; the bank does. All you have is
liability.

I already stated how I feel about used cars--I wouldnt even consider
it. At least for $10k +. New is always a better bet.

You've explained in great and exhausting, possibly even accurate,
detail why new is better *for you*. Oddly enough, people who are not
you and don't share your preferences and habits might come to a
different conclusion about their own needs.

 

[Dan]

Yep, new is often (but not ALWAYS - very few absolutes in life) better,
especially if: 1) you have the money for a sizeable downpayment, or, 2)
do not mind a large monthly payment if you have little money for a down
payment, and 3) you have sufficient consistent income to make those
payments. Not everyone fits into that profile.

 

[bigjim]

Many leases advertised require $3000 or so down. That money is gone
when lease is up. Interest rates are cheaper on new cars as well.
Buying a used car for $16k requires a ecent down payment as well. If
someone has $16k cash to buy a used car they would be smarter to spend
$4k more and get a new car. The key is good bargaining skills. I have
no trouble getting $25-26k stickered cars for $19-20k. Brand New,

 

[Monique Y. Mudama]

Buying a used car for $16k requires a ecent down payment as well.

Why do you say that? I belong to a credit union and can easily get a
used vehicle loan with no money down and a good rate.

 

[bigjim]

Why do you say that? I belong to a credit union and can easily get a
used vehicle loan with no money down and a good rate. <<

That's real genius. Take a loan for $16k for a crappy used car but for
an extra $30 /month over 5 years you can get a new one!!!!!!! That's
why I loved selling cars- A sucker IS born every minute!!!!!

 

[Monique Y. Mudama]

That's real genius. Take a loan for $16k for a crappy used car but for
an extra $30 /month over 5 years you can get a new one!!!!!!! That's
why I loved selling cars- A sucker IS born every minute!!!!!

Yes, the proper response when you've been caught blabbering bulls**t
is to change the subject. Good job!

An extra $30/month over 5 years is $1800. Sure, you can factor in a
difference in interest rate if you'd like, something like 2% if you
shop around ... even if you do, you're probably not going to get the
same car, new, for $30 a month.

I have little trouble believing that you were a prototypical used car
salesman, just based on the manure you're spreading around.

Anyway, I'm done here.

 

[bigjim]

I have little trouble believing that you were a prototypical used car
salesman, just based on the manure you're spreading around. <<


Iwas okay and did crush a number of people, especially used cars. Many
new car buyers were smarter and came in with a printout from edmunds
etc and made an offer. Usually it was taken and papers were signed.
Hey its your money- but a fool and his money are easily parted.
Spending $16k with no warranty or $20k with a full even an extended
warranty. I know what I'll choose every time.

 

[Dan]

So I'm just wondering who spent 16k? Not me.

 

[Bugalugs]

used vehicle loan with no money down and a good rate. <<

That's real genius. Take a loan for $16k for a crappy used car but for
an extra $30 /month over 5 years you can get a new one!!!!!!! That's
why I loved selling cars- A sucker IS born every minute!!!!!

So you expect someone to pony up the extra 4K just to loose that 4K in
depreciation, the moment they drive out the door. But, you don't give a
sh*t 'cause you've made a sale.

One word....predator

 

[bigjim]

Who cares about depreciation if you keep the car after payments are
done? The best was when a couple strippers came in and had a trade in
they owned money on. One bought a geo tracker and ended up paying $22k
for it!!!!!!! They were crushed