break-in period

M

Matt F

I'm going to be picking up my 2004 STi this weekend in CT, then driving it
back to WI. I've heard that one major thing to keep in mind while breaking
in the engine is to not use cruise control for long periods of time. Or for
that matter, just driving at the same speed for a long time. Is this true,
and if so, why? That could be a tricky thing to do on a 1100 mile road
trip!!!

I've also heard that the typical break-in period for this car is about 1000
miles, is that about right? Is it really necessary to keep the car under 4k
RPMs during this time, so long as I don't beat on it?

Thanks in advance,

Matt
 
I'm going to be picking up my 2004 STi this weekend in CT, then driving it
back to WI. I've heard that one major thing to keep in mind while breaking
in the engine is to not use cruise control for long periods of time. Or for
that matter, just driving at the same speed for a long time. Is this true,
and if so, why? That could be a tricky thing to do on a 1100 mile road
trip!!!

I've also heard that the typical break-in period for this car is about 1000
miles, is that about right? Is it really necessary to keep the car under 4k
RPMs during this time, so long as I don't beat on it?

Thanks in advance,

Matt
The factory recommended break-in time is actually 3000 miles. SOA
says you can change it as early as 1,000 miles if you like.
See below for the response I received:

"We recommend that you first change the oil in your 2004 WRX STi Sedan
at 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. We STRONGLY
recommend that you at least wait until the break-in period of 1,000
miles is surpassed.

"The break-in period of the engine requires that a given amount of
friction exists between components. The piston rings need to rub
against the cylinder wall to break-in or finely tune the machine
mating between the two metal parts. To properly seat all mechanical
components, a certain amount of friction is required between the metal
parts.

Thanks for the opportunity to be of assistance. If you need any
future assistance, please feel free to contact us.

Best wishes,

John J. Mergen
Subaru of America, Inc."

And I was told to not use the cruise control for the first 1000 miles.
I would follow the manufactures recommendation of keeping it under
4000 RPM at least until 1000 to 1500 miles. Take it from me, you will
have plenty of power even at 4000 rpm.


BlueSTi
"Scary-Fast"
 
Matt said:
I'm going to be picking up my 2004 STi this weekend in CT, then driving it
back to WI. I've heard that one major thing to keep in mind while breaking
in the engine is to not use cruise control for long periods of time. Or for
that matter, just driving at the same speed for a long time. Is this true,
and if so, why? That could be a tricky thing to do on a 1100 mile road
trip!!!

'THEY' (you know - 'they') say that at some rpms the rings might
resonate causing some unusual wear pattern that could the lead to
abnormal oil consumption, shortened lifespan poor compression
blah-blah-blah - I got no idea if its true but why doubt the
manufacturer on this? Try using 3-4-5 or gears 4-5-6 (6 speed IIRC?) to
vary the rpms. Why not take it easy?

I've also heard that the typical break-in period for this car is about 1000
miles, is that about right? Is it really necessary to keep the car under 4k
RPMs during this time, so long as I don't beat on it?

I dunno, do what you feel comfortable with - some cars come from the
factory now with full synthetic oil, but they said I was crazy for
switching to it at 1700 miles.
 
Carl said:
'THEY' (you know - 'they') say that at some rpms the rings might
resonate causing some unusual wear pattern that could the lead to
abnormal oil consumption, shortened lifespan poor compression
blah-blah-blah - I got no idea if its true but why doubt the
manufacturer on this? Try using 3-4-5 or gears 4-5-6 (6 speed IIRC?) to
vary the rpms. Why not take it easy?




I dunno, do what you feel comfortable with - some cars come from the
factory now with full synthetic oil, but they said I was crazy for
switching to it at 1700 miles.

Aren't a lot of those expensive engines with standard synthetic oil
extensively bench or dyno tested before they leave the factory?
 
y_p_w said:
Aren't a lot of those expensive engines with standard synthetic oil
extensively bench or dyno tested before they leave the factory?

Maybe, and I bet a lot of 'new' cars were taken to redline on a test
drive too.

Carl
1 Lucky Texan
 
BlueSTi said:
The factory recommended break-in time is actually 3000 miles. SOA
says you can change it as early as 1,000 miles if you like.
See below for the response I received:

"We recommend that you first change the oil in your 2004 WRX STi Sedan
at 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. We STRONGLY
recommend that you at least wait until the break-in period of 1,000
miles is surpassed.

"The break-in period of the engine requires that a given amount of
friction exists between components. The piston rings need to rub
against the cylinder wall to break-in or finely tune the machine
mating between the two metal parts. To properly seat all mechanical
components, a certain amount of friction is required between the metal
parts.

Thanks for the opportunity to be of assistance. If you need any
future assistance, please feel free to contact us.

Best wishes,

John J. Mergen
Subaru of America, Inc."

And I was told to not use the cruise control for the first 1000 miles.
I would follow the manufactures recommendation of keeping it under
4000 RPM at least until 1000 to 1500 miles. Take it from me, you will
have plenty of power even at 4000 rpm.


BlueSTi
"Scary-Fast"

Exactly the info I needed. Man, I'm going to baby this motherfu**er like
nothing's ever been babied. Yes, even on a 1100 mile road trip.

Thanks!!!

Matt
 
@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>,
(e-mail address removed) says...
Aren't a lot of those expensive engines with standard synthetic oil
extensively bench or dyno tested before they leave the factory?

I've heard that too, spoken as a generality ("All
factories now, they run all the engines before
they even go in the cars"). Since it's *your*
engine, it's up to you to rely on someone who
might have done it, or do the recommended
procedure yourself. One way you'll know it's
been done, right?

Steve
 
Carl said:
Maybe, and I bet a lot of 'new' cars were taken to redline on a test
drive too.

I know I did. Then I went to another dealer that had the exact
base model WR Blue Pearl WRX I really wanted at a better price.

I don't know why more dealers don't have tester units that they
run until 5,000 miles, sell as used, and then write off the
difference. I bought my first car (a '95 Acura Integra GS-R)
this way. The sales guy encouraged me to redline the tester,
and even drove the thing in third for a mile or so. They also
used the car for courtesy rides. OTOH - they had only two
models.
 
Carl 1 Lucky Texan said:
Maybe, and I bet a lot of 'new' cars were taken to redline on a test
drive too.

The following is my opinion, just the way I feel, I don't make any claims
and I am not looking for argument.

I would think that the engines are run to redline before even leaving the
factory, at least briefly. I really don't buy into the whole break-in thing
too much. I have not seen any experiments that indicated break-in really
does anything at all.

When you think about it, there is metal sliding up and down against metal
with fire burning next to it. Whether it occurs at 3500 (perfectly
acceptable under most manuf. suggestions) or 5000 rpms (oh god no, not 5k!)
doesn't seem all that much different. As long as the cooling system is
adequate and well designed, the engine should not be overheating from what I
consider normal driving. I wish somebody would do some good documented
tests on this subject.

Some old timers tell me about how they "broke in" their engines and how
great they ran even in old age. They have strong opinions but they have
nothing to compare it to, maybe the engine would run just as good even if
they just drove normal from the day they bought it. Its hard to prove
either way, so I just don't buy into it.

--Dan
 
Well I'm not that old of a timer (32yrs). But the reason for the break-in
is to let the rings seat. When you have a new or rebuilt motor you
hone(scuff up for what type of rings you use, iron, molly,etc..) the
cylinder walls. During break in the rings rub against the ruff walls. The
rings smooth the wall till the make a tight fit. If you dont wait you can
get a problem call blow by. This happens when the rings dont seat. When
you you have blow by on the compression stroke air and gas blow past the
rings into the crank case. This will raise the pressure in the crank case
making your front and rear main seals leak. You lose power and gas breaks
down oil and thins it and does'nt protect the motor or bearings very well.
It only gets worse overtime and leads to early engine rebuilds. The only
way to fix the motor is to rebuild it. I have built alot of motors since I
was 16yrs. Most recent a 7000+rpm chevy 327 and just put a Tri-power( 3 x
2bbl carbs) pontiac 389 in my '64 Grand Prix. No matter what make of the
motor you must take the time to break in the motor. People come to the News
groups for helpful info from people who has been thur the samething or have
info that others might not have. But, when you come with info you know
nothing about that is not helpful. That way if I do'nt know I do'nt post.
If I or someone else did not read your post and give the correct info you
would be the cause of alot of peoples with problems and money. For that
reason all ways check out the info that people leave before you try it.
Oldtimer
 
the more I read your post the more it bothers me
dg said:
The following is my opinion, just the way I feel, I don't make any claims
and I am not looking for argument.

I would think that the engines are run to redline before even leaving the
factory, at least briefly. I really don't buy into the whole break-in thing
too much. I have not seen any experiments that indicated break-in really
does anything at all.

If it's not true why do all the oil treatments( slick 50, duralube, etc..)
say not to your their product during engine break-in? Why they do'nt want
your money?
When you think about it, there is metal sliding up and down against metal
with fire burning next to it. Whether it occurs at 3500 (perfectly
acceptable under most manuf. suggestions) or 5000 rpms (oh god no, not 5k!)
doesn't seem all that much different.

As Rpms built stress on the motor get greater. From what you said cars
should not have redline. Why not rev them all to 10k rpm it makes no
different? That's why they make rev limiter for car experts like you.
As long as the cooling system is
adequate and well designed, the engine should not be overheating from what I
consider normal driving. I wish somebody would do some good documented
tests on this subject.

Have you ever done any research to prove that fact? Have you every read a
book on basic mechanics? Let alone anything on rotating mass or
recipocating forces? Anything on how a 4 stroke motor works?
Some old timers tell me about how they "broke in" their engines and how
great they ran even in old age. They have strong opinions but they have
nothing to compare it to,
They have lived it and have experiance.
maybe the engine would run just as good even if
they just drove normal from the day they bought it. Its hard to prove
either way, so I just don't buy into it.

It is not hard to prove. What books did you read that had conflicting
opinions? Have you every built a motor? I bet you are one of those "Just
gas in it and drive " people.
 
Matt F said:
I'm going to be picking up my 2004 STi this weekend in CT, then driving it
back to WI. I've heard that one major thing to keep in mind while breaking
in the engine is to not use cruise control for long periods of time. Or for
that matter, just driving at the same speed for a long time. Is this true,
and if so, why? That could be a tricky thing to do on a 1100 mile road
trip!!!

I've also heard that the typical break-in period for this car is about 1000
miles, is that about right? Is it really necessary to keep the car under 4k
RPMs during this time, so long as I don't beat on it?

Thanks in advance,

Matt

Various and frequent engine speed changes are neccessary to seat the rings
properly. Yes, it takes that long to properly break in your car. Take it
for a short road trip on a crappy highway with lots of construction. That
way your speed will change frequently. You are in a bad spot if you have to
drive it to your home directly after purchase. I suspect your car wont last
long. And of course keep it under 4k. What are you trying to do, go
against every recomendation the manufacturer has?


Rob
 
dg said:
The following is my opinion, just the way I feel, I don't make any claims
and I am not looking for argument.

I would think that the engines are run to redline before even leaving the
factory, at least briefly. I really don't buy into the whole break-in thing
too much. I have not seen any experiments that indicated break-in really
does anything at all.

When you think about it, there is metal sliding up and down against metal
with fire burning next to it. Whether it occurs at 3500 (perfectly
acceptable under most manuf. suggestions) or 5000 rpms (oh god no, not 5k!)
doesn't seem all that much different. As long as the cooling system is
adequate and well designed, the engine should not be overheating from what I
consider normal driving. I wish somebody would do some good documented
tests on this subject.

Some old timers tell me about how they "broke in" their engines and how
great they ran even in old age. They have strong opinions but they have
nothing to compare it to, maybe the engine would run just as good even if
they just drove normal from the day they bought it. Its hard to prove
either way, so I just don't buy into it.

--Dan

Ignore this persons advice. He knows nothing about cars. Perhaps thats why
he's here?


Rob
 
Bryan Lee said:
the more I read your post the more it bothers me
If it's not true why do all the oil treatments( slick 50, duralube, etc..)
say not to your their product during engine break-in? Why they do'nt want
your money?

I don't know, but I wouldn't make any assumptions based on the marketing
used in snake oil remedies. Maybe they don't want to be blamed if a
defective part in a brand new engine breaks. There could be tons of
reasons, many having nothing to do with engine break in at all.
As Rpms built stress on the motor get greater. From what you said cars
should not have redline. Why not rev them all to 10k rpm it makes no
different? That's why they make rev limiter for car experts like you.

I said nothing to indicate that cars should have no redline, I was just
saying that we are in fact talking about an engine with burning gasoline and
hot metal. The difference between 3500rpm and 5000rpm ain't much-I mean
they claim 3500 is OK, so what is going to happen at 5k that isn't going to
happen at 3.5k? Fire and hot metal, remember, you are already doing it.. I
would be interested in hearing about high mileage engine differences between
drivers shifting at 3500 or 5000 on a large number of identical vehicles run
under similar terrain and all maintained properly. What the hell, lets even
"break" some in by also driving them on cruise control at 90 for at least
the first week of driving-as little variation as possible. That'd be the
clincher that could make or break the break in theory-the high mileage
comparisons.
what

Have you ever done any research to prove that fact? Have you every read a
book on basic mechanics? Let alone anything on rotating mass or
recipocating forces? Anything on how a 4 stroke motor works?

Uhh, no, I have done no research. In fact, I clearly state that I wish
somebody would do some good documented tests on the subject. As far as I
know, there haven't been any documented experiments that would say anything
either way.
They have lived it and have experiance.

If I pray to a god that I win the lotto and then I win, does that make me
correct if I go around telling people that my god is real? If their engine
runs good and they have an excuse, is it always correct? In all of the
engine break-in writings I have seen, not one includes and cites of actual
data. All are the same regurgitated information that has been passed around
garages for decades. Did you ever hear that old glass windows sag and are
thicker at the bottom? Did you know that is not true? I have had old
timers argue with me over that too, and even though they are old and have
lived and had more experience-they were told incorrect information and even
though they want to believe it-its wrong. The engine break in theory is
something people WANT to believe-*it may even be true*-but I have not seen
any data to back it up, so to me it smells fishy. Its theory.
maybe the engine would run just as good even if

It is not hard to prove. What books did you read that had conflicting
opinions? Have you every built a motor? I bet you are one of those "Just
gas in it and drive " people.

Not hard to prove? How do you figure? Its like those TV commercials that
show a scan of a human brain from a chronic user of Ecstasy and then show a
scan of a human brain from somebody who never used drugs. The brain
activity is MUCH smaller looking on the scan for the chronic ecstasy user.
So to twist the facts against ecstasy, they say that the ecstasy causes your
brain to stop functioning correctly-less activity. But after thinking about
it, their argument has no leg to stand on. You see, a chronic ecstasy user
is somebody who hangs out in clubs dancing all night. They are
malnourished, dehydrated, and mentally stressed. They may sleep only
several hours per week. They often use other drugs and alcohol and
generally lead a poor lifestyle. So, lets take that person who never used
drugs before and lets put them in a club all night dancing several days a
week and not feed them properly and let them get very dehydrated. Lets
maybe let them get an hour of sleep and then wake them and make then go flip
burgers for 8 hours. But maybe only feed them a bite or two cause the
chronic ecstasy user probably isn't eating too much either. Lets carry this
on for at least a few months--and then scan the brain again. Its like
engine break in, damn hard to prove but easy to make a case that on the
surface looks convincing. And no, I have built no motors. I do use
gasoline however, and I drive.

So all I'm saying, is that for me to believe the break in theory, I need to
see some more facts. I know its nearly impossible but like I said above, a
high mileage comparison of several identical cars, maintained properly, but
"broken in" differently would be much more convincing than listening to an
old guy who also swears up and down that glass windows flow.

Sorry so long.

--Dan
 
did you read my other post? Have you every built a motor and understand ho
it works? You see I am not the only person that thinks you dont know what
you are talking about. Why cant you just go to any part store or libray
and get a book written by engineers that can give you the info you have
asked about? Are you just smarter then the engineers that write the books?
Or do you just like like to live in your ignorance. If so I will just
ignore you for now on. I would be wise for everyone else to do the same.
He knows nothing on what he speaks and has no backround on this matter.
 
This will be my last post defending myself, I don't want to start beating a
horse.

Dude, I don't claim to know anything about engine break in, I QUESTION some
of the statements about engine break-in and told you why I questioned them.
I already said I have never built a motor. I know you are not the only
person who thinks I don't know what I am talking about, because anybody who
read what said would see I freely admit that I don't know enough about
engine break-in to know what the truth is. That is the whole point of
everything I have said. It would be nice to know more, but I have not seen
any data. I have never even seen a reference or cite pertaining to engine
break in. You mentioned books that may contain the information I am
interested in. Can you make any recommendations on a book that might cover
these topics?

You have been pretty insulting in your last post, I don't like being
referred to as ignorant, but its just usenet so I don't really care. I have
made not stated anything as fact, I have always either questioned something
or said "it seems like", "as far as I know", etc. I have never claimed that
you or anybody else said something wrong. You could reply with information
relating specifically to something I questioned or observed, but instead you
just try to insult me or put me down, alienating me from the rest of the
group with statements directed at everybody EXCEPT me.

Again, I would appreciate a recommendation on a book relating to this
subject. Preferably a book with some actual data and not just theory. I
have certainly heard many theories over the years, but real information is
what I would like to see. By the way, did you know that it is now generally
accepted by physics experts that centrifugal force doesn't actually exist at
all? Another example of a theory that lasted for who knows how many years,
but now it is generally accepted as being wrong. It would be nice if you
would at least at the very minimum say that my questions are valid
questions, rather than insult me. I have already said something to this
effect, but engine break-in techniques *might* really make a difference in
long term engine life, I am totally willing to say that. It could be true,
however I am not ready to buy it yet. Give me some cites and I WILL follow
up, I WANT to learn.

--Dan
 
I would like to make a comment or two on this subject based on several
vehicles (Saabs & Volvos) which I bought new, broke in and drove to 150,000
+ miles and sold them as excellent running vehicles without ANY oil related
or oil burning problems. That was a bad run-on sentence, O-Well. For the
first couple of hundred miles I start and idle the engine for 30-60 seconds
before driving off. I drive easy until the temp gage reaches the normal
running temperature which is about 5-10 minutes. I then drive normally using
light to medium throttle with max revs of 2500-3000. I try for suburban type
driving with some stop and go and light cruising. After a few hundred miles
I will increase rpms to 3500 or so and apply BRIEF heavy loads for only 5-10
seconds at a time. I do this kind of driving until 1000-1500 miles. In
addition; I don't use the cruise control and change the factory fill at what
the manufacture recommends which for my 2000 Forester was 3000 miles but, I
did cheat and change at 2,000 because a long trip was coming up. I
frequently check fluid levels and inspect for leaks. Don't follow motorcycle
recommendations as the mechanisms are different. A car engine must not only
break-in or polish piston rings/cyl but cam lobs/rocker arms or pivots. Most
cycle engines are ready for rebuild where a well cared for car engine is
just starting its' life. Good motoring. eddie
 
Rob Duncan said:
Various and frequent engine speed changes are neccessary to seat the rings
properly. Yes, it takes that long to properly break in your car. Take it
for a short road trip on a crappy highway with lots of construction. That
way your speed will change frequently. You are in a bad spot if you have to
drive it to your home directly after purchase. I suspect your car wont last
long. And of course keep it under 4k. What are you trying to do, go
against every recomendation the manufacturer has?


Rob


This might be of interest to all as to engine break in period. Debunks
some old held beliefs.

www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
Wow. This is very interesting, and something I've always wondered about.
The piece of information I'm missing to fully understand is: what's
different about the oil that's in there that you're not changing for
1,000 miles? Is it actually less-slippery oil that permits "a given
amount of friction"?
 

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