An actual car post...

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy

Yup! Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lube. ~$9-12 a can, depending if you
get it from Chevy or Buick.

 

[Ray O]

I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. Yeah,
they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with
GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose
is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of the
parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!)

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

Which is cheaper - Chevy or Buick?

In my case, Buick!

 

[dsi1]

Actually, it's only been mine for about 2 years, and winter only. What I
DO remember is, when I park that car and then take my '89 Mazda for a
spin, I almost put myself through the windshield when I hit the brakes the
first time!

The 84 GL station wagon I used to have had less than great brakes. Don't
expect too much.

When you screw in the pistons, make sure you orient the slot on the
piston in the same direction that it was in. A pin in the pad fits in
that slot - it keeps the piston from rotating.

The caliper design is pretty much a copy of a early 70's Fiat caliper
design. How odd!

 

[nm5k]

I'm going to try, very gingerly, to loosen the stuck bleeder tomorrow.

I usually let em soak with rust buster for as long as possible.
Then carefully whack it with a hammer, wrench, etc on the head
of it to help break the rust loose from the threads. Pop it 2-3 times
if need be. They will usually come out after that.

 

[Ray O]

Yup! Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lube. ~$9-12 a can, depending if you
get it from Chevy or Buick.

Which is cheaper - Chevy or Buick?

 

[Ray O]

In my case, Buick!

I'll have to check out the local GM dealer parts department!

 

[Heron McKeister]

The 84 GL station wagon I used to have had less than great brakes. Don't
expect too much.

When you screw in the pistons, make sure you orient the slot on the
piston in the same direction that it was in. A pin in the pad fits in
that slot - it keeps the piston from rotating.

The caliper design is pretty much a copy of a early 70's Fiat caliper
design. How odd!

Not really all that odd. As a former Fiat mechanic I can
tell you that many Fiat first features (brake, OHC engine,
carburetor ... designs) were later found on domestic cars.

 

[Heron McKeister]

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy

Best penetrating oil I've ever used, has NEVER once,
given sufficient time, failed to perform par excellence.

 

[Heron McKeister]

I usually let em soak with rust buster for as long as possible.
Then carefully whack it with a hammer, wrench, etc on the head
of it to help break the rust loose from the threads. Pop it 2-3 times
if need be. They will usually come out after that.

In addition, when no protective cap is present, I always
also use a pin vise and drill rust, sediment, what have you
from the hole to assist the rust penetrant to infiltrate. When
assembling, I'm certain to install a cap and spread a very
light smear of antiseize on the outermost meshing threads.

 

[dsi1]

Not really all that odd. As a former Fiat mechanic I can
tell you that many Fiat first features (brake, OHC engine,
carburetor ... designs) were later found on domestic cars.

Sure, I know what you mean. It took the rest of the world a while to put
out a twin-cam engine with a flat toothed belt timing belt.

I suspect that Subaru and other manufacturers might pay Fiat some cash
for license to use that parking brake design for disk systems. VW and
Volvo and probably others used Fiat's wonderful system of flat shims to
adjust valve clearances - they were all interchangeable. What I meant is
that it's odd because most other folks don't think much of Fiat.

 

[dsi1]

Not really all that odd. As a former Fiat mechanic I can
tell you that many Fiat first features (brake, OHC engine,
carburetor ... designs) were later found on domestic cars.

Sure, I know what you mean. It took the rest of the world a while to put
out a twin-cam engine with a flat toothed belt timing belt.

I suspect that Subaru and other manufacturers might pay Fiat some cash
for license to use that parking brake design for disk systems. VW and
Volvo and probably others used Fiat's wonderful system of flat shims to
adjust valve clearances - they were all interchangeable. What I meant is
that it's odd because most other folks don't think much of Fiat.

 

[Ray O]

Best penetrating oil I've ever used, has NEVER once,
given sufficient time, failed to perform par excellence.

You are preaching to the choir. I didn't realize that it was still
available so I was very stingy with the last can I had.

Chrysler dealers also had a heat riser lubricant in the same shape can with
the same big white nozzle that I suspect was supplied by the same company
that supplied GM's, but I have never used Chrysler's stuff so I don't know
if it works as well as GM stuff.

 

[Roger Blake]

Not really all that odd. As a former Fiat mechanic I can
tell you that many Fiat first features (brake, OHC engine,
carburetor ... designs) were later found on domestic cars.

Some of those features go back a good few years in the U.S>
The 1949 Crosley featured disc brakes and an OHC 4-cylinder. engine.

 

[Heron McKeister]

Some of those features go back a good few years in the U.S>
The 1949 Crosley featured disc brakes and an OHC 4-cylinder. engine.

I wasn't referring to the concepts so much as I was
the actual design of the components which were
often indistinguishable or nearly so from one another.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

Best penetrating oil I've ever used, has NEVER once, given sufficient
time, failed to perform par excellence.

On my stuck bleeder, 'sufficient time' was less than 5 minutes!

Once it gets in the threads, rust doesn't stand a chance!

 

[S]

Hi Hachiroku!

1989 Suby GL Coupe, AWD.

Spongy brakes. I did the obvious and flushed/bled, but it didn't help a
lot.

I skimmed thru the first handful of replies and didn't see this
mentioned, so I'll throw in my $.02. Pardon if you've been there
already.

Check that the "floating" mechanism on your calipers is working
smoothly. The pins that mount the caliper tend to get rusty/gummy over
time, and no longer allow the caliper to "float" to adjust for pad
wear. This condition will decidedly cause the brakes to feel
weak/mushy, and it'll be one of those things that kinda creeps up on
you.

A sure sign is one pad worn _way_ more than the other, but even if you
don't see this, always check/lubricate the caliper's mounting pins
when you service the brakes.

Hope this helps.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[hls]

I would not. Run your fingernail down a brand-new piston. Does it hang
up or catch anywhere? No. Now run your fingernail down a surface that's
been emeried even with fine cloth. /Big/ difference. Any roughness will
result in a sticky piston, plus it will wear the hydraulic seal very
quickly. Emerying the cylinder bore is somewhat less objectionable,
provided it's cleaned thoroughly afterwards.

Clean off any gum on the pistons with solvent. If rust remains or if the
cleaned surface catches your fingernail anywhere, replace the piston.
Tegger

I should have said "crocus cloth" rather than emery. Sorry. Crocus cloth
will polish and does a great job of cleaning up microabrasive surfaces. It
is perfectly safe to use on cylinders or pistons.

Sorry I missed the point that his drain was on a rear caliper. Doesnt make
much difference, actually. I have redone rears as well as fronts. They ARE
different, but not that complicated.

 

[hls]

Since it's rear shoes it's a wheel cylinder. Cheap to replace.
But I've sometimes just bled at the line connection instead, and
had no sponginess. And people define sponginess differently.
Sometimes it's normal pedal travel.
But it's his car, so he knows how it should feel.

--Vic

If it is rear shoes, I totally agree with you.

If it is rear discs, then you have to make a decision. Rear discs
are not so hard to work on, but if you snap off a bleed valve, you
may be committed to buying a new caliper.

Yes, a good machine shop MIGHT be able to get the old
one out, but the expense can overpower just getting a junkyard unit
and rebuilding (as I did), or even buying new.

 

[hls]

Sure, I know what you mean. It took the rest of the world a while to put
out a twin-cam engine with a flat toothed belt timing belt.

I suspect that Subaru and other manufacturers might pay Fiat some cash for
license to use that parking brake design for disk systems. VW and Volvo
and probably others used Fiat's wonderful system of flat shims to adjust
valve clearances - they were all interchangeable. What I meant is that
it's odd because most other folks don't think much of Fiat.

Fiat had a lot of interesting technology. I thought those flat shims were
super. I had a problem with one head once that I could not get into spec
with any existing shims. Had to do a little "machining"..

Fiat doesnt have a good name, really. I think the classic rusting problem
is
one issue. It isnt the worst car in the world.