Wheel Bearing Changes 2014-2016?

[y_zass]

I am shopping for Timken wheel bearings and here are the model numbers I have access to.

HA590315 - Front - 2012-14
HA590313 - Rear - 2012-14

HA590648 - Front - 2014-16
HA590522 - Rear - 2014-16

Does this even make sense? What has changed with the wheel bearing / knuckle between 2014 and 2016? On rockauto it appears that in 01/14 they change from the first 2 to the second 2. I want to buy the 315 and 313 as I don't have access to the 648 where I am trying to shop, only the rear 522. What could be different? The only thing I could kind of see is the mid section on the 313 appears to be slightly taller/longer than the 522 maybe?

What years are wheel bearings the same for Impreza?

 

[bmart]

Search for the part on a Subaru site and you should be able to see "also fits."

Just an example: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2...ng-Cone-Bearing-35X18/49287334/806335082.html

 

[y_zass]

Search for the part on a Subaru site and you should be able to see "also fits."

Now I'm even more confused. When I looked up the wheel bearing it only shows 2016 as supported for Impreza. How is that even possible? Is the knuckle different that one year? Doubtful. There are a few "supersession" part numbers but that doesn't mean those are compatible, just that this part supercedes them. There is no way to reference them with Timkens part numbers either.

 

[bmart]

Is there any info on the Timken site, or you could cal Subaru on the phone? Subaru has had some wheel bearing issues over the years, so the new ones may just be a step up in durability from the old ones, but the same size.

 

[y_zass]

Is there any info on the Timken site, or you could cal Subaru on the phone?

I did find an email for Timken engineering support/questions. I asked what changes were made between the part numbers.

 

[Dick Foster]

That's one job I learned to leave to the pros.
I used to do my own maintenence on a 96 Toyota Tacoma that was off roaded a lot. I tried swapping front wheel bearing once myself before I solid axle swapped it.
Pressing the wheel bearings out of the knuckles was a real chore as they simply did not want to press out.
Using a 50 or 80 ton press, topped out, one of the bearing assembles exploded, scattering parts all over. The other came out just a little bit easier.
After that I recommended taking that headache to a pro and let them suffer.
They were Timpken assemblies with two opposed tapered bearing assemblies facing opposite one another. It was a real bear of a job.
As I recall there was a brake backing plate that further complicated the job when trying to press the bearings in and out. I think I ended by modifing the plate making it a two piece removeable affair in order to ease future work.
I don't know what you have but if it's anything like that, take it to a pro and gladly pay them to do the job, because they'll surely earn it.

 

[bmart]

Just did one on the 2004 Legacy front. Easy peasy!

 

[Dick Foster]

Yeah that looks like a easy and a normal setup. Not quite as easy as the mid 70s K series Chevy setup I axle swapped to but a lot easier than the Toyota IFS setup I had before the swap was.

 

[y_zass]

That's one job I learned to leave to the pros.

I'd rather spend the money on tools than labor. Besides, it's a 2016 not a 2008. The hubs aren't even rusty. I've watched a few videos though so I see where you are coming from! I have a plan, and it doesn't involve a slide hammer lol! I ordered new bolts with the bearings so I can use the old ones to pound it out from the back hehe. X pattern style. I also have a torch, just in case.