Torquing oil drain plug

[john]

The torque setting given in maintenance manual for oil drain plug is
measured when the plug is coated with oil, or when it is dry?

I hope it's the first case, because there is no easy way to remove all oil
from the drain plug and the drain hole.

On the other hand, if the figure given is measured when dry and I follow it
without cleaning off the oil, I would end up overtightening the plug.

What's the correct thing to do?

 

[VanguardLH]

The torque setting given in maintenance manual for oil drain plug is
measured when the plug is coated with oil, or when it is dry?

I hope it's the first case, because there is no easy way to remove all oil
from the drain plug and the drain hole.

On the other hand, if the figure given is measured when dry and I follow it
without cleaning off the oil, I would end up overtightening the plug.

What's the correct thing to do?

Actually I don't think it matters. Whether wet or dry, you will NOT be
seating the plug against the pan. The point is to crush the sealing
ring enough to ensure it seals, and that means the plug is NOT up
against the pan.

The idea is to compact the sealing ring but not destroy it by overly
crushing it. The torque rating is for when using an air wrench or other
tool that simply snaps onto the plug. However, it is likely you will be
using a wrench with a handle so you can easily guage how much you rotate
the wrench.

Turn the plug by your fingers until it is tight. Rotate an additional
(pick just one):
- 1/4 turn for "solid" metal gasket seal.
- 1/3 turn for formed metal gasket or plastic ring.

You do NOT want to cinch the oil plug up against the pan. If there is
still a drip after torquing as directed above, rotate a maximum of a
further 1/4 turn. If there is still a drop, get a new gasket/ring.

If you're doing your own oil change, replace the sealing ring. Oil
change shops don't (unless you ask and they carry the part). Rather
than rely on a prior-crushed ring, use a new one.

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Actually I don't think it matters. Whether wet or dry, you will NOT be
seating the plug against the pan. The point is to crush the sealing
ring enough to ensure it seals, and that means the plug is NOT up
against the pan.

The idea is to compact the sealing ring but not destroy it by overly
crushing it. The torque rating is for when using an air wrench or other
tool that simply snaps onto the plug. However, it is likely you will be
using a wrench with a handle so you can easily guage how much you rotate
the wrench.

Turn the plug by your fingers until it is tight. Rotate an additional
(pick just one):
- 1/4 turn for "solid" metal gasket seal.
- 1/3 turn for formed metal gasket or plastic ring.

You do NOT want to cinch the oil plug up against the pan. If there is
still a drip after torquing as directed above, rotate a maximum of a
further 1/4 turn. If there is still a drop, get a new gasket/ring.

If you're doing your own oil change, replace the sealing ring. Oil
change shops don't (unless you ask and they carry the part). Rather
than rely on a prior-crushed ring, use a new one.

Good post. Additionally, double check that the the original factory
washer is not painted in place. Particularly if this is the first oil
change! Mine was. It's unlikely to still be there on an older car
because stacking the washers will usually result in dripping.

Carl

 

[Todd H.]

washer is not painted in place. Particularly if this is the first oil
change! Mine was. It's unlikely to still be there on an older car
because stacking the washers will usually result in dripping.

And DO use a new crush wsaher. I've had to fire more shops who were
too lazy to be troubled with it... and ohhh man that pisses me off.

If you use a crush washer, you can feel when the washer is being
crushed, and I haven't had any need to measure torque on it (and I
haven't had leak issues or come anywhere close to not being able to
get the plug back out next time.

 

[John]

Doesn't matter, ft/lbs are the same whether dry or lubed, lubed is just
easier to get there.

Also, I can get about 3 oil changes from the same crush washer, 4 is pushing
it.

 

[kapjim]

And DO use a new crush wsaher. I've had to fire more shops who were
too lazy to be troubled with it... and ohhh man that pisses me off.

If you use a crush washer, you can feel when the washer is being
crushed, and I haven't had any need to measure torque on it (and I
haven't had leak issues or come anywhere close to not being able to
get the plug back out next time.

--

The Subaru dealer here does not stock crush washers. Just flat ones
for at least 7 or 8 years. I have never had a leak problem, though.

 

[Remco]

The Subaru dealer here does not stock crush washers.  Just flat ones
for at least 7 or 8 years.  I have never had a leak problem, though.

If you buy an original filter from Subaru, you'll note it will come
with a crush washer.

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

If you buy an original filter from Subaru, you'll note it will come
with a crush washer.

I've been buying my filters from www.subarugenuineparts.com and they
have a washer taped to the box - but I think they are listed separately.

Carl

 

[Todd H.]

If you buy an original filter from Subaru, you'll note it will come
with a crush washer.

When I bought them fro ma local dealer, they were separate.

When I bought with subarugenuineparts.com (thanks Carl for that tip
moons ago), they all came with the washers taped to each filter box
-- a nice touch.