Timing belt woes

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I have a 2012 outback with the such 2.5 in it. I am sort of in the middle of a timing belt job and I think something is wrong. I set both cams and the crank pulley with all mark aligned just perfectly. The new aisin belt with its 3 marks went on perfectly and all bolts for all the spiny things were torqued to 30lbs. Every YouTube video I’ve seen says to crank it by hand 2 full turns to see that the belt will line back up correctly.
Those marks did NOT line up correctly. Another video says if it’s cranked over 30 times it should line up. I’m in Florida. Needless to say I have hand cranked that engine over many times (lost count) and the belt marks and pulley marks are still not lining up. I look every time the dotted line gets close and all I have is a sweat soaked shirt to remind me of what seems like a failure.
I don’t know if I should hear pistons and valves colliding from being off as I turn it over, but I don’t.
Can someone tell me if this is ok to finish reassembly and just drive it, or take the belt off and reset something?
 
He didn’t really address what I’m facing here. After 2 revolutions of the belt,, or the crank, or the cams? After those 2 revolutions, is EVERYTHING supposed to line up perfectly again? The marks on the crank and cams lined up after 2 revolutions, but the belt marks didn’t. Is that normal?
 
do never drive a late Subaru if you feel something wrong with cam timing, it is an interference engine, it will die expensivevly if something is wrong with the timing.
Belt markings, triple check it, they should be indexing it up after a trillion turns
 
do never drive a late Subaru if you feel something wrong with cam timing, it is an interference engine, it will die expensivevly if something is wrong with the timing.
Belt markings, triple check it, they should be indexing it up after a trillion turns
That is a real fear of mine. When I bought the car they said the belt had just been done, then a few weeks later I was accelerating to get on the highway and it snapped. Engine 1 gone. They replaced it with another engine that sounded like marbles rolling around in a steel can, then they finally put the current engine that runs well, and I want to keep it that way. It’s also a car that was originally sold in California with California emissions on it, so getting a direct fit is hard to do. Especially since it’s a warranty engine.
Here is a thought, if the crank and both cams were spun independently with no belt on, by hand, how would you align them all up correctly again? I’m thinking about trying that.
Also, I have turned it over by hand a lot of times. With the exception of compression, it doesn’t seems to make odd sounds like pistons and valves hitting each other. I did originally have everything lined up just right at the start of this.
 
He didn’t really address what I’m facing here. After 2 revolutions of the belt,, or the crank, or the cams? After those 2 revolutions, is EVERYTHING supposed to line up perfectly again? The marks on the crank and cams lined up after 2 revolutions, but the belt marks didn’t. Is that normal?
What you said can't happen. Are all of the pulleys installed and tight? I just did mine as per the video and it worked. Call
 
I am wrong. If you watch the video close. After he rotates the crank, two turns, the lines on the BELT don't line up on the pulleys. The MOST important part,,,, after two turns of the crank, the cam pulley marks and crank pully mark, still line up to the marks on the engine. If you rotate the belt until the original crank mark on the "belt" lines up with the crank pulley, the other marks also have to line up.
That would be MANY turns of the crank.
 
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That is my take as well; the belt marks are supposed to be for initial installation of the belt to the pulleys only. Once everything is installed properly and tensioned, the rotation of the crank pulley two turns should line up the pulley marks but not the belt marks again. BTW, I saw a hint using binder clips to hold the belt in the proper orientation on the cam pulleys until everything is reassembled and tensioned. Remove before rotating the crank.
 
Why are you trying to line up marks on the belt. What you care about is the crank and cams.
 
This is what I am slowly figuring out. I assumed from some of the videos I watched that everything was supposed to line up again. I’m going to call it good and start it later tonight. I think it’s right too, so we will see.
 
It lives!!! Runs fine, I was getting worried for nothing it seems, but she’s buttery smooth now. After work tomorrow I’m changing oil and spark plugs, then a test drive. She sat up on Jack stands and ran great until the air bubbles were done and the fans kicked in.
Thanks to everyone for your help!
 

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