Synthetic oil fitler? 2000 OBW

[Jim]

Hello just wondering what filter the synthetic oil users are using
these days.
I know people tend to have a low opinion of Fram, but has anyone heard
anything about the XG3593A? It's marketed for synthetic oils. Supposed
to have 96% single pass efficiency.

If anyone has any recommendations I'm all ears. Also, Canadian sources
for filters also appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Jim Stewart]

Hello just wondering what filter the synthetic oil users are using
these days.
I know people tend to have a low opinion of Fram, but has anyone heard
anything about the XG3593A? It's marketed for synthetic oils. Supposed
to have 96% single pass efficiency.

If anyone has any recommendations I'm all ears. Also, Canadian sources
for filters also appreciated.

Mobil1 10w30 + Subaru OEM filter + new crush washer
Can't go wrong.

 

[Jim Lofgren]

I use Mobile 1 in my 2K outback with the XG filter....I've never had any of
the valve noise that others have reported with other than Subaru filters.
Everything has been cool for 64K miles.....fingers crossed...Jim

 

[Jack]

I use Puralator Pure One filters. I believe the regular Puralator
filters are also suppose to be very good and only about half the
price.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hello just wondering what filter the synthetic oil users are using
these days.

Hi,

IMO, you won't go wrong just sticking to OEM. People worry a lot about
filter capacity, single and multi-pass efficiencies, etc. but the fact
of the matter is most of what you see is some kind of advertising hype.

One thing to consider about synthetic oils and filters is you don't have
as much buildup of crud in synthetics (assuming you're starting with a
decent engine, not one that's been all crudded up thru years of
irregular oil changes and the like) so the filter actually has an easier
job than with most dino oil.

I can't speak to the XG series of Fram filters, but will say I've had
better results with other brands in my Subie than the basic orange Xtra
Guard or white Tough Guard Fram models (that's not necessarily my
experience with other makes, though, lest anyone thinks I'm simply
jumping on the "let's bash Fram" bandwagon.) Purolator makes the North
American filters, so you'll be ok there, whether with the plain white
one or the Pure One. If you get Bosch in your neighborhood, they've
worked ok in my car, too (they come from Champion Labs, who also make
the Mobil 1, the Wal-Mart Super Tech, and who knows how many other
brands.)

Best of luck,

Rick

 

[y_p_w]

Hi,

IMO, you won't go wrong just sticking to OEM. People worry a lot about
filter capacity, single and multi-pass efficiencies, etc. but the fact
of the matter is most of what you see is some kind of advertising hype.

If you want a higher quality filter, the black OEM one (part #
15208AA080) for the turbo models seems to be "nicer". It has a thicker
can, a different kind of filtering media, etc. It's made in Japan by
"Tokyo Roki" (not Toyo Roki). It's smaller and more expensive. The
threads and gasket dimensions are supposed to be the same as the
standard filter.

One thing to consider about synthetic oils and filters is you don't have
as much buildup of crud in synthetics (assuming you're starting with a
decent engine, not one that's been all crudded up thru years of
irregular oil changes and the like) so the filter actually has an easier
job than with most dino oil.

What do you mean by "crud"? If you're talking contaminants, I'd
think using synthetic oil wouldn't have much of an effect on how
much dust, soot, or other particulate matter ends up in the oil.

I've heard from oil experts that it's myth that synthetic oil
dissolves or loosens up built up crud/sludge. The inherent
"detergency" of a true PAO-based oil is allegedly low. Mobil
had a problem with their AV-1 aviation oil because it didn't
"scavenge" lead as well as conventional oils.

 

[Rick Courtright]

What do you mean by "crud"? If you're talking contaminants, I'd
think using synthetic oil wouldn't have much of an effect on how
much dust, soot, or other particulate matter ends up in the oil.

External contaminants (dust and such) would be a constant regardless of
what oil's in the sump. Oil-based internal contaminants (varnish, carbon
buildup from oil burning off in places like valve stems and piston
rings/skirts and ash, among others) should be less w/ synthetic. IF a
particular engine DOES get significantly better fuel economy (not my
experience, BTW, but some claim big gains), there will be less soot and
carbon produced by combustion. And IF you get better ring sealing thru
having cleaner rings (a claim I've heard but haven't seen documented),
blowby should be reduced. YMMV on all these points.

I've heard from oil experts that it's myth that synthetic oil
dissolves or loosens up built up crud/sludge. The inherent
"detergency" of a true PAO-based oil is allegedly low. Mobil

I won't argue that one way or another, cuz it's definitely a debateable
point. Anecdotal stories say synthetic has a tendency to clean out
certain deposits. My personal experience tends to align itself with the
anecdotes.

Rick

 

[DG]

Mobil1 10w30 + Subaru OEM filter + new crush washer
Can't go wrong.

Get rid of the crush washer and change the drain plug for a Fumotovalve.
Now you've got a perfect combination of oil and filter.

 

[Jim Stewart]

Get rid of the crush washer and change the drain plug for a Fumotovalve.
Now you've got a perfect combination of oil and filter.

Nah, I need to have my character built each time
the hot oil flows out over my hand

 

[Guest]

A second nod for the Fumotovalve. You can change your oil and filter w/o
any tools.

 

[Danny Russell]

A second nod for the Fumotovalve. You can change your oil and filter w/o
any tools.

I've read a lot of good things about the Fumoto valve, but I can't get my mind past the thought that
a valve might not stay closed when I'm hitting snow & ice drifts. I've never actually seen one
though.

How does it actuate? Is there a lever?

 

[Jim]

There is a lever you have to lift up a couple mm then you have to turn
the level 1/4 turn. You can get a 5/8" hose clamp to make it more
secure as well.

I just got mine. Waiting for my next oil change to install it.

 

[Danny Russell]

There is a lever you have to lift up a couple mm then you have to turn
the level 1/4 turn. You can get a 5/8" hose clamp to make it more
secure as well.

I just got mine. Waiting for my next oil change to install it.

Thanks Jim. I busted a little section of my plastic front under-chassis shroud on a snow/ice drift
last winter (Michigan), and I believe a Fumoto valve may've been sheared clear off. This sort of
thing is typical in any cold-weather driving environment.

So is it possible that the whole valve concept is only viable for warm-weather/on-road conditions?
-Danny

 

[Jim Stewart]

A second nod for the Fumotovalve. You can change your oil and filter w/o
any tools.

Not on a WRX. You still need a socket set to
get that big chunk of plastic off.