Subaru GL problems

[MYsubaru1986 via CarKB.com]

Okay, so ever since I got my Subaru GL in 2006, I've been having problems.
Last year around this time, we noticed that the distributor cap was sending
faulty signals to the sparkplugs, and got it fixed. Along with that, we had
a $1200 tune-up.

And as of late, several new problems have occured.

Every once in a while, it won't start. It makes a clicking noise, and the
voltage goes down on my battery, but nothing happens. After about 40 trys
(or so it seems), the car will start up. I'm not sure if it's the battery
with a low charge, or the starter with a faulty relay.

Also, the coolant has been mixed in with the engine oil (which we think a bad
modulator valve may be causing), for when I check the oil, it's a chocolatey-
brown (and only a few weeks old too). We noticed a leak today, so I'm not
sure as to what exactly is going on.

And to top it all off, my transmission fluid IS leaking. I haven't seen any
stains, but I've dumped a few quarts into it in the past few weeks and it's
still bone dry. Again, this apparently may be caused from a bad modulator
valve, but I'm not car expert.

If anyone can help me with any of these problems, I would dearly appreciate
it. Thank you so much.

 

[Tony Hwang]

Okay, so ever since I got my Subaru GL in 2006, I've been having problems.
Last year around this time, we noticed that the distributor cap was sending
faulty signals to the sparkplugs, and got it fixed. Along with that, we had
a $1200 tune-up.

And as of late, several new problems have occured.

Every once in a while, it won't start. It makes a clicking noise, and the
voltage goes down on my battery, but nothing happens. After about 40 trys
(or so it seems), the car will start up. I'm not sure if it's the battery
with a low charge, or the starter with a faulty relay.

Also, the coolant has been mixed in with the engine oil (which we think a bad
modulator valve may be causing), for when I check the oil, it's a chocolatey-
brown (and only a few weeks old too). We noticed a leak today, so I'm not
sure as to what exactly is going on.

And to top it all off, my transmission fluid IS leaking. I haven't seen any
stains, but I've dumped a few quarts into it in the past few weeks and it's
still bone dry. Again, this apparently may be caused from a bad modulator
valve, but I'm not car expert.

If anyone can help me with any of these problems, I would dearly appreciate
it. Thank you so much.

Hmmm,
If I were you, I'll send that car to car cemetry(junk yard)

 

[MYsubaru1986 via CarKB.com]

Well I love this car. It's not in bad shape at all (all problems set aside),
and really what I see being done won't cost THAT much. I'm replacing the
modulator valve tomorrow, so we'll see how many problems clear up.

Okay, so ever since I got my Subaru GL in 2006, I've been having problems.
Last year around this time, we noticed that the distributor cap was sending

[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]

If anyone can help me with any of these problems, I would dearly appreciate
it. Thank you so much.

Hmmm,
If I were you, I'll send that car to car cemetry(junk yard)

 

[Tony Hwang]

Well I love this car. It's not in bad shape at all (all problems set aside),
and really what I see being done won't cost THAT much. I'm replacing the
modulator valve tomorrow, so we'll see how many problems clear up.

Okay, so ever since I got my Subaru GL in 2006, I've been having problems.
Last year around this time, we noticed that the distributor cap was sending

[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]

If anyone can help me with any of these problems, I would dearly appreciate
it. Thank you so much.

Hmmm,
If I were you, I'll send that car to car cemetry(junk yard)

Hi,
Oil in the coolant maybe a head gasket problem.
It could become a bottomless money pit.

 

[MYsubaru1986 via CarKB.com]

Yeah, I'm not exactly sure what it could be. I have two head gaskets (on
either side of the engine), and the antifreeze seems to be dripping from
RIGHT under the engine.

Well I love this car. It's not in bad shape at all (all problems set aside),
and really what I see being done won't cost THAT much. I'm replacing the

[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
Hi,
Oil in the coolant maybe a head gasket problem.
It could become a bottomless money pit.

 

[bg]

I stopped reading after $1200 tune up.

go get an outback and pretend like "everyone" else. Or "be sporty" and get
a wrx turbo edition. It is a "legend". just ask "anyone". "They" will
agree....

Seriously. It seems the last real boxer needs to go to the realm of v8
builders popping wheelies to prove how dumb manufacturing got. The last Real
boxer is Really there (for my neck of the woods, more than not since day one
of the gl generation). Do not be offended to not know basics and pay too
much. The support is better for new subes, just not a good sube to someone
who isn't new to them. I hope I didn't anger anymore than the the stampede
already...I am damn good at it.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hi,

Some thoughts...

Start by finding a GOOD Subie mechanic in your neighborhood!

A $1200 "tune-up" on a GL oughta just about include a "new" JDM engine
in the parts list! "JDM" is "Japanese Domestic Market" and means one of
the used engines pulled from a car in Japan and imported to the US.
Stories abound that these have a max of 30k miles on them, blah, blah.
It's not quite THAT simple, but they're usually available in the
$750-$1000 range around here (SoCal.)

The electrical problem should be easy enough to check, IF whoever's
doing the work can test the battery under load. Most parts stores that
sell a lot of batteries have load testers and many will check your
battery on the spot for you. (Just ask.) That should tell if the
battery's going south. (If it IS, see if they can check the alternator,
too, so you know if the battery's just getting old and tired or if it's
not being charged properly.) If it's good, then you need to go
downstream toward the starter, checking relays, solenoids, etc.:
whatever's in the particular system.

Chocolate milk in the sump? CLASSIC blown headgasket symptom. The fact
you've had two(?) HGs replaced and STILL have this problem makes it
sound like they weren't done properly, the heads were warped but weren't
surfaced when they should have been, or worse, you may have cracks in
the heads. Again, a GOOD "wrench" oughta be able to test and diagnose
for you. Compression and cylinder leakdown tests are two common tools,
as are tests for exhaust gas in the coolant.

QUARTS of transmission fluid and no apparent stains/leaks? I'm no expert
on automatic transmissions, but I seen to remember some of the older
ones used vacuum activated modulators. Somehow I thought most everything
recent (last 15 yrs or so?) was electronically controlled. In a wild
stretch of the imagination, I could see a vacuum leak sucking fluid into
the intake system on an older one. No ideas for you on the newer models.

All in all, since you're not an expert, it sounds like you need to do
your homework and find a "real" one you can trust. Sounds like someone's
just been taking your money so far...

Good luck!

Rick

 

[MYsubaru1986 via CarKB.com]

Hey, thanks for the response.

By the way, this is apparently the second engine for this car (only 50K on
the engine). And for 1986, this car's in pretty good condition, believe it
or not : ).

Okay, so yesterday, we replaced the modulator valve and drained the oil. It
was sudsy, like something else was mixed with it (and almost totally black,
even after only a few weeks). I drove it to school this morning, and it
seemed to shift oddly, but then again, it's been shifting oddly for the past
month or so (so maybe I'm used to crappy transfers). And while my grandpa
was under the car changing the modulator valve, he noticed the antifreeze was
coming from two locations. One was obviously the head gasket. The SECOND
was coming from a very odd "knob" next to the head gasket. My grandpa
noticed a small hole in this knob leaking the antifreeze, and said it might
be a pressure release type thing(?). Anyway, we're getting the gasket kit
soon and will be fixing the mess within the next few days.

And as for the electrical problem, I can't put a finger on where the error is
coming from. I don't think it's my starter, simply because when I turn the
key, after a few trys, it'll start to turn over, but then whirs and dies. It
sounds like a dead battery, BUT, I've checked the levels and tested the water.
Everything checks out. The wires

And when I said "two head gaskets", I meant I HAVE two, not had them replaced.


Also, what are the requirements and restrictions for pressure-washing an
engine. When we remove the whole thing to replace the head gasket, I would
like to take the opportunity to clean up the grime.

Thanks SO much for all your help Rick.

 

[johninKY]

The reason the starter sometimes does not engage is because there is to
much resistance in the circuit that feeds the starter solenoid. Curren
flows from the battery, through the ignition switch, and then to th
starter solenoid. The poor solenoid is not getting enough amps t
energize. The simple solution is to install a relay under the hood.
Original wire that went to the solenoid used to close the new relay. H
wire from battery, through relay, and then to the starter solenoid wil
fix this problem.

 

[Rick Courtright]

energize. The simple solution is to install a relay under the hood.
Original wire that went to the solenoid used to close the new relay. HD
wire from battery, through relay, and then to the starter solenoid will
fix this problem.

Hi,

If you want to go that route, it's hard to beat the old standard Ford
starter solenoid switch!

Haven't bought one in a while, but for many years it seemed they were
always around $10. In order to preserve that price point, a lot of
vendors went to China for production. Personally, I'd pay more if I
could find a non-Chinese unit.

A lot of cars have suffered similar problems: why the engineers try to
run so much amperage thru the ignition switches baffles me, because
every time they do, the same trouble arises! Heat = increased resistance
= decreased voltage = increased current = a loop back to more heat.
Lather, rinse, repeat? It doesn't matter how good an engineer you think
you are, in the end, you can't violate the laws of physics w/o paying!
By taking a lot of the load off the ignition switch, it should last
longer, too. Another "dungeoneering" favorite is to run all the
headlight current thru the switch. Again, a relay to relieve the switch
of actual current carrying duties is a good idea!

Rick