Seals...ugh

[bob]

Hi,

I have a 1998 Legacy Brighton, automatic.

For the past year or so, I've had a very slow oil leak...maybe less than a
teaspoon a day. Between it making a mess in the driveway and splattering all
over the bottom of the engine, making smell and smoke, I'm considering
getting it fixed. It doesn't lose enough oil yet to be worried, but I've
looked into it.
My local garage thinks it's the rear engine seal, which Subaru says is a
good 8 hour job, including lifting either the engine or the tranny. The Car
Talk guys say they've never seen a Soobie engine seal go, and that it's more
likely the cam seals. I'm not anxious to spend close to $1000 for an oil
drip.

Anyone have experience with this? What did you do?

Thanks,



Bob

Travel and Astronomy Photos
www3.sympatico.ca/bomo

--

 

[Peter Berbee]

The right side cam support O-ring started leaking first (70K miles) on my
'98 Legacy L. This part is cheap and easy to replace. The oil from this
leak runs down the back of the right side head before ending up in the same
general area as a leak from the rear seal would be found.

My front seal started to leak at 85K miles. My cam shaft seals never did
start leaking, but, I replaced them when I fixed the front seal. My left
side cam support O-ring may have been leaking a bit too. 105K miles and the
back seal is still good.


Peter

 

[Jim Stewart]

Hi,

I have a 1998 Legacy Brighton, automatic.

For the past year or so, I've had a very slow oil leak...maybe less than a
teaspoon a day. Between it making a mess in the driveway and splattering all
over the bottom of the engine, making smell and smoke, I'm considering
getting it fixed. It doesn't lose enough oil yet to be worried, but I've
looked into it.
My local garage thinks it's the rear engine seal, which Subaru says is a
good 8 hour job, including lifting either the engine or the tranny. The Car
Talk guys say they've never seen a Soobie engine seal go, and that it's more
likely the cam seals. I'm not anxious to spend close to $1000 for an oil
drip.

There's a known problem on the 2.5 DOHC engine
with the front crank seal. The oil pump back
plate works loose and blows the seal. The fix
is to remove the oil pump, remove the back plate,
change the O-ring and seal, replace the back
plate and LOCTITE THE RETAINING SCREWS!

Good time to change the timing belt, etc, if
it hasn't been done.

To determine where the oil is coming from, Gunk
and pressure-wash the underside of the engine
and transmission and check it daily.

 

[Jim]

There's a known problem on the 2.5 DOHC engine
with the front crank seal. The oil pump back
plate works loose and blows the seal. The fix
is to remove the oil pump, remove the back plate,
change the O-ring and seal, replace the back
plate and LOCTITE THE RETAINING SCREWS!

Good time to change the timing belt, etc, if
it hasn't been done.

To determine where the oil is coming from, Gunk
and pressure-wash the underside of the engine
and transmission and check it daily.

I have a 97 Brighton Legacy and it has the 2.2L engine standard.

I have exactly the same problem (made itself evident at 100K, I now
have 131k). Both two dealers and my independent mechanic say that it's
not possible to pinpoint what is leaking although it's clearly, at
least, coming from somewhere on the front. They all say that the most
likely course would be to replace all the seals, considering the basic
labor, apparently, to get to the engine seals and the mileage on the
engine Dealer wants 2K, indy mechanic says probably around $1500.
For that cost I will put up with the oil smell for a long time.
Besides I only need to add oil after about 2000-2500 miles. Putting
in high mileage formulation oil seems to have slowed the rate of
leakage (better than separate oil additives did). I park the car in
the garage and put cardboard under it to soak up the oil drips but
I'm sure you could find something to put in the driveway.

Jim

 

[Jim Stewart]

I have a 97 Brighton Legacy and it has the 2.2L engine standard.

I have exactly the same problem (made itself evident at 100K, I now
have 131k). Both two dealers and my independent mechanic say that it's
not possible to pinpoint what is leaking although it's clearly, at
least, coming from somewhere on the front. They all say that the most
likely course would be to replace all the seals, considering the basic
labor, apparently, to get to the engine seals and the mileage on the
engine Dealer wants 2K, indy mechanic says probably around $1500.
For that cost I will put up with the oil smell for a long time.
Besides I only need to add oil after about 2000-2500 miles. Putting
in high mileage formulation oil seems to have slowed the rate of
leakage (better than separate oil additives did). I park the car in
the garage and put cardboard under it to soak up the oil drips but
I'm sure you could find something to put in the driveway.

If you are patient and handy with tools, you
cand do it yourself for about $100 in parts.
If you're interested, I'll dig up my post where
I described my adventure at fixing it.

 

[Jim]

If you are patient and handy with tools, you
cand do it yourself for about $100 in parts.
If you're interested, I'll dig up my post where
I described my adventure at fixing it.

Don't know about the original poster, but your first line does not
describe me unfortunately :-(
Jim II

 

[Rick Courtright]

Don't know about the original poster, but your first line does not
describe me unfortunately :-(

Hi,

Sorry to hear that! But even so, the prices you quoted seem exceedingly
high to me. Basically, I'd find what the labor charge is for a t-belt
change, then add about an hour to hour and a half plus the price of the
seals to come up with what I'd consider a reasonable starting price
(naturally, things vary a bit, but you've gotta start somewhere!) A
little research and talking with the dealer/mechanic may save you a buck
or two.

And as advised by others, might as well do the t-belt, and some would
suggest the water pump as well, all at the same time. You can do an
awful lot on a single trip into that area of the engine without adding
much labor.

Rick

 

[Jim]

The timing belt and water pump were done (for the 2nd time on the
beltt) 8k miles ago. the oil leak which had been ongoing for 23k or
more miles was not mentioned,,,apparently not from that vicinity.

Jim

 

[bob]

I'm handy with tools, but don't fancy removing either the engine or the
tranny, which is apparently what is required.

Bob

--

 

[bob]

Wow, I'll consider myself lucky then. My local mechanic doesn't want to mess
with it, but both the Soobie dealer and an indy transmission shop both said
$500-600 CDN.

Bob

--

 

[ed]

Check the driver's side rear cam cover, apparently the o ring can leak, and
the oil travels to the rear of the oil pan, so it appears like a rear crank
seal leak. Clean the area and re-check in a day or two (need to get under
the car for this).
Ed B

 

[kaplanspjiamm]

I have a 97 Brighton Legacy and it has the 2.2L engine standard.

I have exactly the same problem (made itself evident at 100K, I now
have 131k). Both two dealers and my independent mechanic say that it's
not possible to pinpoint what is leaking although it's clearly, at
least, coming from somewhere on the front. They all say that the most
likely course would be to replace all the seals, considering the basic
labor, apparently, to get to the engine seals and the mileage on the
engine Dealer wants 2K, indy mechanic says probably around $1500.
For that cost I will put up with the oil smell for a long time.
Besides I only need to add oil after about 2000-2500 miles. Putting
in high mileage formulation oil seems to have slowed the rate of
leakage (better than separate oil additives did). I park the car in
the garage and put cardboard under it to soak up the oil drips but
I'm sure you could find something to put in the driveway.

Jim

Just a follow on...
3 weeks later my crank pulley came loose did considerable damage to
connected parts, reaching the wobbling stage, before I realized what
the noise was. In replacing it & associated parts i see and o ring
and oil sea and an o ring on the right rear cam seal. this seems to
have stopped the leak.

Jim