JohnO said:Last time I had my rear wheel off, I forgot to check this...how big a
deal is it to replace the rear brake rotors on my '99 Outback? Can I
be lucky enough that it's just a caliper removal, bang on the rotor
and it comes off?
Jim said:Should just slide off.
B said:Is the rear rotor part of the assembly with the parking brake in the hub?
Last time I had my rear wheel off, I forgot to check this...how big a
deal is it to replace the rear brake rotors on my '99 Outback? Can I
be lucky enough that it's just a caliper removal, bang on the rotor
and it comes off?
Last time I had my rear wheel off, I forgot to check this...how big a
deal is it to replace the rear brake rotors on my '99 Outback? Can I
be lucky enough that it's just a caliper removal, bang on the rotor
and it comes off?
-John O
Jim said:I don't remember.
Neither do I, but I thought I'd bring it up in case it is. <G>
An applied parking brake can make the job a PITA!
You will probably find the park brake drum makes up the inside of the
rotor so if you release the park brake remove the caliper and it
shopuld come off.
Last time I had my rear wheel off, I forgot to check this...how big a
deal is it to replace the rear brake rotors on my '99 Outback? Can I
be lucky enough that it's just a caliper removal, bang on the rotor
and it comes off?
Hi John, All!
As mentioned, the e-brake "drum" is a part of the rotor; be sure the
e-brake is off. Remove the caliper and carrier, either separately or
as a unit. If the rotor/drum is stuck, there is a place where you can
thread in two 8mm (?) screws to "jack" the rotor off of the hub. Use
WD40 between the rotor and hub, and tighten the jacking screws evenly,
a bit at a time. If this alone fails to free the rotor (unusual), try
tapping lightly around the circumference with a wooden mallet while
working the jacking screws. Tightening the lug nuts upon reassembly
will pull the rotor back into position.
FWIW, easiest way to replace pads is to separate the caliper from the
carrier. Remove 1 bolt; 12 or 14mm head, pivot the caliper away from
the pads, and slide off of post. Use this opportunity to inspect and
lube the "floating" mechanism and rubber boots. Compress the caliper
piston with a "C" clamp, or your fingers if you're feeling strong.
Check to be sure you're not overflowing fluid at the reservoir. Remove
the old pads, and fit the replacements into the carrier. Push both
pads up against the rotor, slide the caliper back on the post, being
sure the boot engages the lip (you'll see when you get this far),
pivot into place over the pads, and replace the bolt.
Takes less time to do it than it takes to describe it. Do be sure the
floating "sleeve", and post are clean, lubed, and move freely, or you
are asking for all sorts of troubles down the road, the least of which
will be uneven pad wear. If the floating mechanism is seized, hit your
local salvage yard for a replacement caliper/carrier. If one side is
bad, odds are the other side is as well, so plan accordingly. No joke;
this is a very common problem on these cars as they accumulate miles,
and it is frequently overlooked and/or ignored by brake service
monkeys in a hurry to get to lunch.
This procedure applies for the fronts as well, BTW.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Steve. You've answered a few questions for me here.
-John O
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