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Is it necessary to use factory oil and filter in Subaru's? I know some use Mobil 1 and farm filters.
Oil and filter changes
- Thread starter Lightguy777
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I can't imagine why it would be. Use the specs Subaru recommends. I prefer Bosch filters (but I've used all kinds of quality filters) and Mobil 1 in mine. My 2000, the only one I've serviced from new, runs much better than any of the others I've owned, even with well over 200k miles now. It still looks and drives like new.
If you really want to understand oil and filters, there's a LOT of info out there, most of it false.
Here's a little fun for you:
www.machinerylubrication.com
motorcycleinfo.calsci.com
I try to buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart when Mobil has a rebate going on. There are many good filters to choose from including Bosch and Mobil 1. I'm not a Fram fan, but they're likely just fine.
If want to go deeper still, you can send your oil to a company like Blackstone to that you know that you're always changing it WAY too soon. lol
If you really want to understand oil and filters, there's a LOT of info out there, most of it false.
Here's a little fun for you:
How to Choose the Right Oil Filter for Your Car
Car owners often get conflicting advice about oil filters. Vehicle owner's manuals, installers, quick-lube operators, mechanics and retail clerks all have different opinions. The reality is that...
www.machinerylubrication.com
Motorcycle Info and Accessories
I try to buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart when Mobil has a rebate going on. There are many good filters to choose from including Bosch and Mobil 1. I'm not a Fram fan, but they're likely just fine.
If want to go deeper still, you can send your oil to a company like Blackstone to that you know that you're always changing it WAY too soon. lol
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Suburu makes neither oil or filters so buy the best stuff you can and you'll likely get more value for your money.
That said I've long been a fan of synthetic lubes. Long before Suburu got around to it even. I stated out with AmSoil because they were the first synthetic lube sold nationally. However that was somewhat hard to get due to limited marketing, so I went to the much more avaliable Mobile 1 brand. I used synthetic everything even grease, tyranny and gear box oils. And still do.
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I think you meant Fram filters. There are better filters out there if you search them out.
BTW everytime you change your oil, change the filter too. Some say every other time but IMHO that's nonsense. I used pure 100% synthetic oil, extended mileage between changes but also changed the filter each time.
BTW everytime you change your oil, change the filter too. Some say every other time but IMHO that's nonsense. I used pure 100% synthetic oil, extended mileage between changes but also changed the filter each time.
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I never use the same filter twice. I’ll try the extended mileage next time thanks.
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So if I use a filter other than Subaru, will I still need the crush washers?
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Yes, I agree with the comments above. Just don't believe in the Extended Oil change intervals!
This can cause wear and damage to the engine over time.
The important thing to remember is that frequent oil changes help keep the engine clean. The oil filter should be changed every time. There is a lot of water and by-products of combustion like carbon and soot which end up in the engine's sump. The only way to remove them is to do drain the old oil out. There is nothing wrong with topping off the oil in between oil changes, just do not delay a scheduled interval such as every 3,000 miles or every three months.
No one wants to "ruin" the clean oil by running it thru a dirty oil filter! The oil filter seal can be lubed with a small amount of fresh oil. This is so it doesn't get stuck when it is time for the next oil change.
The oil plug that fits on the oil pan does not normally need a new crush washer, but Autozone does sell washers and seals for this purpose and they are inexpensive. If you change the oil yourself, just make sure that the Oil Plug is properly tightened by hand. This insures that it will not somehow come loose during normal engine operation. Always check for leaks after an oil change, just to be sure. Sometimes the oil filter needs that extra 1/4 of a turn. Do not use an impact wrench for this!
My neighbor went to a place like Oil Can Henry's and the Technician overtightened the oil plug and cracked the cast aluminum oil pan. Of course, they parked in front of my house and the car leaked all the oil into a pool under the car. It took weeks for the shop to acquire a new oil pan and install it.
This can cause wear and damage to the engine over time.
The important thing to remember is that frequent oil changes help keep the engine clean. The oil filter should be changed every time. There is a lot of water and by-products of combustion like carbon and soot which end up in the engine's sump. The only way to remove them is to do drain the old oil out. There is nothing wrong with topping off the oil in between oil changes, just do not delay a scheduled interval such as every 3,000 miles or every three months.
No one wants to "ruin" the clean oil by running it thru a dirty oil filter! The oil filter seal can be lubed with a small amount of fresh oil. This is so it doesn't get stuck when it is time for the next oil change.
The oil plug that fits on the oil pan does not normally need a new crush washer, but Autozone does sell washers and seals for this purpose and they are inexpensive. If you change the oil yourself, just make sure that the Oil Plug is properly tightened by hand. This insures that it will not somehow come loose during normal engine operation. Always check for leaks after an oil change, just to be sure. Sometimes the oil filter needs that extra 1/4 of a turn. Do not use an impact wrench for this!
My neighbor went to a place like Oil Can Henry's and the Technician overtightened the oil plug and cracked the cast aluminum oil pan. Of course, they parked in front of my house and the car leaked all the oil into a pool under the car. It took weeks for the shop to acquire a new oil pan and install it.
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I think of it like this
It will be you that takes the oil filter off next time
That means don't tighten it up too much
It does not take much "tight" for the oil filter to NOT leak
The book says, like the above post mentions, 1/4 turn from where the gasket contacts the base
Then the crush washer is just to help you seal the drain plug without tightening the crap out of it
BMW used lead drain plug gaskets for years
Those are "fun" to smash too
Enjoy
It will be you that takes the oil filter off next time
That means don't tighten it up too much
It does not take much "tight" for the oil filter to NOT leak
The book says, like the above post mentions, 1/4 turn from where the gasket contacts the base
Then the crush washer is just to help you seal the drain plug without tightening the crap out of it
BMW used lead drain plug gaskets for years
Those are "fun" to smash too
Enjoy
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I used 100% synthetic and changed every 5k miles including the filter.
I had occasion to pull the heads at about 100k miles on my truck and the engine was like brand new inside including the hone in the cylinder walls.
It's for this reason that you don't want to use synthetic lubes to break in engines, gears and the like. The synth is so slick the surfaces can't lap in (wear) together. So break in with dyno juice then change out to 100% synthetic. But you don't need to change it as often as the dyno juice. Some said just analyze it and keep using it with a new filter but I figured just changing it out was easier and safer than going through all that stuff. I went more by color. If it gets visably dirty, i.e. dark and black, then change it out.
I had occasion to pull the heads at about 100k miles on my truck and the engine was like brand new inside including the hone in the cylinder walls.
It's for this reason that you don't want to use synthetic lubes to break in engines, gears and the like. The synth is so slick the surfaces can't lap in (wear) together. So break in with dyno juice then change out to 100% synthetic. But you don't need to change it as often as the dyno juice. Some said just analyze it and keep using it with a new filter but I figured just changing it out was easier and safer than going through all that stuff. I went more by color. If it gets visably dirty, i.e. dark and black, then change it out.
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Thanks, Dick, I agree with you.
Bmart, however, you are what is known as ---in the common vernacular--- as a Heckler!
If you have something constructive to say , then I am all ears, (as Baby Yoda might say.)
If you have something worthwhile to say, or, even a legitimate difference in scientific opinion, then just say what it is you disagree with, and we can discuss it in an open forum.
For example, how long should one wait to have an oil change? Do you push it to the max and never change the oil? Or, If you use Full-Synthetic, do you really believe you should drive all year with out another oil change?
Maybe you are new to car ownership, so If you don't know much about oil changes, then maybe you would enjoy
this popular YouTube personality: Scotty Kilmer in this informative video: Here in this video Scotty goes beyond the oil change to discuss carbon build-up. See for yourself at this link:
Bmart, however, you are what is known as ---in the common vernacular--- as a Heckler!
If you have something constructive to say , then I am all ears, (as Baby Yoda might say.)
If you have something worthwhile to say, or, even a legitimate difference in scientific opinion, then just say what it is you disagree with, and we can discuss it in an open forum.
For example, how long should one wait to have an oil change? Do you push it to the max and never change the oil? Or, If you use Full-Synthetic, do you really believe you should drive all year with out another oil change?
Maybe you are new to car ownership, so If you don't know much about oil changes, then maybe you would enjoy
this popular YouTube personality: Scotty Kilmer in this informative video: Here in this video Scotty goes beyond the oil change to discuss carbon build-up. See for yourself at this link:
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Scotty Kilmer is about the biggest idiot trying to be in the field. Always has been. Please tell me that isn't your bar for accurate info. I wouldn't let that guy change the air in my tires. LOL
More later...but you're as funny as the guy a few weeks back touting false info, harming our fellow Subaru owners.
More later...but you're as funny as the guy a few weeks back touting false info, harming our fellow Subaru owners.
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Here goes. You must be a democrat. It isn't everyone's responsibility to explain everything to you. And while you can post what you like and insult anyone who disagrees with you...it isn't a good look, especially when you're mostly wrong. Enough of acting like you...here's some useful facts for you in response to your notes. You use a lot of vague terms like "frequent" which mean nothing. My suggestion...try harder to not be a mutton head.
Manufacturers provide oil change intervals (all maint suggestions, as it turns out) based on testing. Actual use can vary significantly. Testing the oil, in this case, is the ONLY way to know when YOUR oil change intervals should be. Most people don't/won't, so we go by guidelines. In general, oil lasts a lot longer than the manufacturer intervals. This interval is extended further still if new oil, with additional additives, is added between changes.
Water does not end up in the sump unless the car isn't allowed to warm and burn it off. This is why idiots who start their car but don't go anywhere damage their engines. Have you ever taken one of these apart. It is a frackin' mess. Here's a simple example from a bike engine. https://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/please-dont-do-this-to-your-engine5279062
3000 mile oil change intervals in regular passenger vehicles is decades old advice, a waste of oil/filters, and every time someone touches something, there's a risk for an error through the human's actions or a defective part. Aside from extreme conditions like dusty towing environments, even the manufacturers' recommendations are very cautious.
A thin layer of oil is added to a filter not to make removal easier many thousands of miles down the road, but to make installation smoother so that there is a good seal and no risk of tearing/damage...and the ability to apply the right amount of torque. Loose oil filters leak or come off on their own. Tight ones don't like to come off.
Autozone sells mostly garbage and your mentioning them and Scotty explains a lot. Different vehicles may use, or not use, a sealing washer on the drain. There are quite a few kinds of sealing washers. Some can be reused and others not. If you reuse one that is single use, you're nearly guaranteed a leak. Again, please don't give crap advice that might cost someone a $10k engine. Oil lugs are not tightened by hand, but have a torque spec.
Synthetic vs. traditional oil has nothing to do with oil change intervals. Synthetic is a term used to say "particles of the same size." Stop trying to look smart. Oil is used to lubricate the engine, transfer particles to the oil filter, and transfer heat (something it shares with the coolant system). Clean oil of the right viscosity with the right additives still present is what determines when oil changes are actually needed...not a book or Internet thug. I have no idea what you mean by push an oil change. I neither push nor pull mine. On each of the many vehicles I own, I occasionally have the oil tested. That tells me if I have any issues internal to the engine and also how the oil is holding up at given mileage. That is what determines my oil change intervals....facts.
Try not to be an Internet dick and for the love of the gods, ditch "scotty" the village idiot and get an education.
Manufacturers provide oil change intervals (all maint suggestions, as it turns out) based on testing. Actual use can vary significantly. Testing the oil, in this case, is the ONLY way to know when YOUR oil change intervals should be. Most people don't/won't, so we go by guidelines. In general, oil lasts a lot longer than the manufacturer intervals. This interval is extended further still if new oil, with additional additives, is added between changes.
Water does not end up in the sump unless the car isn't allowed to warm and burn it off. This is why idiots who start their car but don't go anywhere damage their engines. Have you ever taken one of these apart. It is a frackin' mess. Here's a simple example from a bike engine. https://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/please-dont-do-this-to-your-engine5279062
3000 mile oil change intervals in regular passenger vehicles is decades old advice, a waste of oil/filters, and every time someone touches something, there's a risk for an error through the human's actions or a defective part. Aside from extreme conditions like dusty towing environments, even the manufacturers' recommendations are very cautious.
A thin layer of oil is added to a filter not to make removal easier many thousands of miles down the road, but to make installation smoother so that there is a good seal and no risk of tearing/damage...and the ability to apply the right amount of torque. Loose oil filters leak or come off on their own. Tight ones don't like to come off.
Autozone sells mostly garbage and your mentioning them and Scotty explains a lot. Different vehicles may use, or not use, a sealing washer on the drain. There are quite a few kinds of sealing washers. Some can be reused and others not. If you reuse one that is single use, you're nearly guaranteed a leak. Again, please don't give crap advice that might cost someone a $10k engine. Oil lugs are not tightened by hand, but have a torque spec.
Synthetic vs. traditional oil has nothing to do with oil change intervals. Synthetic is a term used to say "particles of the same size." Stop trying to look smart. Oil is used to lubricate the engine, transfer particles to the oil filter, and transfer heat (something it shares with the coolant system). Clean oil of the right viscosity with the right additives still present is what determines when oil changes are actually needed...not a book or Internet thug. I have no idea what you mean by push an oil change. I neither push nor pull mine. On each of the many vehicles I own, I occasionally have the oil tested. That tells me if I have any issues internal to the engine and also how the oil is holding up at given mileage. That is what determines my oil change intervals....facts.
Try not to be an Internet dick and for the love of the gods, ditch "scotty" the village idiot and get an education.
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So I thought the purpose of a forum was to gain knowledge and learn from more experienced owners. Not to be ridiculed by them. Thanks for the no help and making members feel less than.
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Toughen up, buttercup! If you think that is being ridiculed, you haven't lived very much.
It was a little humor to get you maybe...type into a Google search before posting on a forum. That doesn't seem to be much of a thing anyone, self sufficiency.
There are such a thing as canister filters, and they normally contain one or two O-rings to make the seal. The canister is reused and O-rings are generally replaced with the filter. I'm not aware of any Subarus that use them, but that doesn't mean that they don't exist. Volvos have them, and they leak, often.
It was a little humor to get you maybe...type into a Google search before posting on a forum. That doesn't seem to be much of a thing anyone, self sufficiency.
There are such a thing as canister filters, and they normally contain one or two O-rings to make the seal. The canister is reused and O-rings are generally replaced with the filter. I'm not aware of any Subarus that use them, but that doesn't mean that they don't exist. Volvos have them, and they leak, often.
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Ok Richard Cranium…you got it. Ha pictures and help now? Go have fun with yourself.
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How’s that for toughing it up, buttercup?