Notchy trans breaking in?

H

houndman

07' 5M Impreza trans Seems to be shifting better. The main problem was
the 1st to 2nd shift. Getting out of 1st was hard, and the revs would
drop, by then engaging 2nd would have a lurch is the best way to
describe it, though that probably isn't right. The car has 1500mi on
it, and it got cold out, which I would think would make things worse,
at least when first driving, but the shifting Seems better.

This has become an adventure. Looking for gear oils that might solve
the problem, reading that the GL-5 oil has sulfur in it, that could
corrode yellow metals, so could shorten the life of syncronizers, If
they are brass. Oils like symthetics might be TOO slippery to make the
syncros do what they should, and grab and match gear speeds. Subaru
says an oil that some say solves the problems I have/had isn't
recomended, and they claim No problems with trans durability.

I came across "Cold Welding", where if the oil doesn't stay on/
between the gears, they can stick because of microscopic
irregularaties, which sounded like could be the problem getting out of
1st. The sulfur additive in oils, recomended for Rears forms acids
when temps get above 250deg, which will corrode the yellows. Who says
a trans Won't get that hot, and others say that they can Between the
teeth, from the friction, and hot enough to destroy oils if towing. I
found out about the test for corrison of yellow metals, where they use
a copper strip, and a better one using silver. I look up how hot a
tranny can get, and 300deg isn't unheard of, especially when towing.
Auto trans's cool it with the radiator, and How Hot is the coolant,
250deg?? So what is auto trans fluid get up to? Auto trans people say
300deg, and cool it down to 240-270deg. 175deg is said to be the best
temp for auto trans longevity, so don't know how that would be had,
without an oil cooler. I never worried about auto trans fluid, as long
as it looked good, but the info is making me think about both auto and
manual trans oils.

I am planning an around the country trip towing some kind of trailer,
with some kind of vehicle. I think it Behoves me to learn all I can,
and even for every day driving of a new and old car. 20yr old one only
has 80K on it. I'd like to know what temps the trans oils get up to,
and if the manual trans oil becomes acidic. They Say you should check
the ph of coolant, with all the aluminum and plastic in modern cooling
systems, since acids can corrode aluminum, and make plastics brittle,
and cause failures.

Should get some Interesting replies...

VF
 
Your problem reminds me of a big booboo nissan made in the late 70's
with the Nissan Patrol (LG-60). Getting the car in and out of gears
was a random challenge. The cause of the problem ended up being that
the alignment between the engine and the transmission was off. When the
clutch was depressed, the press would release at a rotating slant, and
as a result, the clutch disk would not slide freely on the splines in
the input shaft, thus not freeing the transmission completely, making
shifting difficult.

With your revs dropping and lurch when shifting it sounds more like a
clutch problem, but i am sure you know things i do not. In any case,
with an 07 this should be a Subaru problem, not yours.

Good luck!
 
I thought I replied

I had a clutch replaced on a car, and they must have gotten grease or
dirt on the splined shaft. When stopped at a light, the car would
creep. Don't remember if shifting into first after stopped or before
stopping. Some penetrating oil onto the shaft, though the inspection
cover hole, fixed it.

It seems like shifting out of first is getting easier, and how it
should be. Have to see.

VF
 
Does the behaviour get better when the air conditioner is off? (don't
forget that the windshield defrost setting also turns on the a/c).

It took me a looooong time to get used to shifting smoothly from 1st
to 2nd, and I eventually (after a post on this group) realized that
the RPMs were dropping faster than normal only when the a/c was on. I
now shift faster when the a/c is on, and the shifting is more smooth.
If I forget, I get the big lurch and my brain goes "Ah, yes. The a/c
is on."

I find this car shifts like a truck unless my brain is working at full
capacity. But after 155k kms, it is still the same so I don't suspect
that the life of the tranny is reduced. (I did have the clutch
replaced at about 40k due to chattering)

Chicobiker
2003 OBS
 
Does the behaviour get better when the air conditioner is off? (don't
forget that the windshield defrost setting also turns on the a/c).

It took me a looooong time to get used to shifting smoothly from 1st
to 2nd, and I eventually (after a post on this group) realized that
the RPMs were dropping faster than normal only when the a/c was on. I
now shift faster when the a/c is on, and the shifting is more smooth.
If I forget, I get the big lurch and my brain goes "Ah, yes. The a/c
is on."

I find this car shifts like a truck unless my brain is working at full
capacity. But after 155k kms, it is still the same so I don't suspect
that the life of the tranny is reduced. (I did have the clutch
replaced at about 40k due to chattering)

Chicobiker
2003 OBS



Good point about the AC, but the AC hasn't been on in a while. The
car did surge or chug at low speeds with the AC on.

It was just hard to pull out of first gear, like it was binding.
Engaging 2nd it would jerk, like the clutch wasn't engaging smoothly,
which could have been the revs dropping too much during the delay.
Will have to try to figure that out the next time, intenionally let
the revs drop, and see if it causes any of the problems. I have
slipped the clutch more than I like to, to get things smooth. Where
the clutch grabs, and where the seat is positioned seems to create
differences. I adjust the seat for city and highway driving.

I have muscle damage problems with weakness, and easily fatigued
from damage from chemicals, and hadn't driven a stick in 25yrs, so
working all 4 limbs gave me a workout, and adding the firm ride and
seats, driving over all the bumps in a city was straining and
fatiguing. Adding the lurches, and chugs, it was like being on an
amusement ride. Testing a WRX for a mile in the city really beat me
up. I was considering the WRX but would have wanted to change too many
things to try to make it comfortable. I have a lot with the 2.5i.
Playing with tire pressures helped a good bit. Read the tires have
very stiff sidewalls.

I was never one to be satisfied with things that didn't work for me,
and seats in many cars don't fit me, and spoiled by ones that do and
are comfortable, I have some Recaros that adjust for thigh length and
width, adjustable lumbar, and softer that are going to go in the Sube.
A friend who traded up from a Hemi Charger to an SRT-8 one, doesn't
like the seats in the 8, being very confining when just sitting in the
car. I told him he should have swapped the seats, and he just looked
at me, like He should have thought of it.

VF
 
Does the behaviour get better when the air conditioner is off? (don't
forget that the windshield defrost setting also turns on the a/c).

It took me a looooong time to get used to shifting smoothly from 1st
to 2nd, and I eventually (after a post on this group) realized that
the RPMs were dropping faster than normal only when the a/c was on. I
now shift faster when the a/c is on, and the shifting is more smooth.
If I forget, I get the big lurch and my brain goes "Ah, yes. The a/c
is on."

I find this car shifts like a truck unless my brain is working at full
capacity. But after 155k kms, it is still the same so I don't suspect
that the life of the tranny is reduced. (I did have the clutch
replaced at about 40k due to chattering)

Chicobiker
2003 OBS


I turned on the AC to see if that caused the low speed surging I had
with it on before, but didn't notice any. It was cool out, so not sure
if the compressor came on. I'll have to try it on defrost. Guess that
is why the botton of the windshield was fogging one time.

VF
 
Good point about the AC, but the AC hasn't been on in a while. The
car did surge or chug at low speeds with the AC on.

It was just hard to pull out of first gear, like it was binding.
Engaging 2nd it would jerk, like the clutch wasn't engaging smoothly,
which could have been the revs dropping too much during the delay.
Will have to try to figure that out the next time, intenionally let
the revs drop, and see if it causes any of the problems. I have
slipped the clutch more than I like to, to get things smooth. Where
the clutch grabs, and where the seat is positioned seems to create
differences. I adjust the seat for city and highway driving.

I have muscle damage problems with weakness, and easily fatigued
from damage from chemicals, and hadn't driven a stick in 25yrs, so
working all 4 limbs gave me a workout, and adding the firm ride and
seats, driving over all the bumps in a city was straining and
fatiguing. Adding the lurches, and chugs, it was like being on an
amusement ride. Testing a WRX for a mile in the city really beat me
up. I was considering the WRX but would have wanted to change too many
things to try to make it comfortable. I have a lot with the 2.5i.
Playing with tire pressures helped a good bit. Read the tires have
very stiff sidewalls.

I was never one to be satisfied with things that didn't work for me,
and seats in many cars don't fit me, and spoiled by ones that do and
are comfortable, I have some Recaros that adjust for thigh length and
width, adjustable lumbar, and softer that are going to go in the Sube.
A friend who traded up from a Hemi Charger to an SRT-8 one, doesn't
like the seats in the 8, being very confining when just sitting in the
car. I told him he should have swapped the seats, and he just looked
at me, like He should have thought of it.

VF

I can tell you that driving a manual transmission should not be done
if you have any kind
of physical problems. Driving will become a torturous affair for you.
In the back of your mind a voice will be telling you "I should have
gotten an automatic".
I found my 07 to have a really nice clutch - easily one of the best I
have used (except for the Civic Si, which has an even better clutch
feel). It sounds like you are out of practice with driving a manual
transmission. My advice is to drive a really hard manual, like an old
truck for a few weeks. Then get into the Subaru. It will feel like
magic.
 
I can tell you that driving a manual transmission should not be done
if you have any kind
of physical problems. Driving will become a torturous affair for you.
In the back of your mind a voice will be telling you "I should have
gotten an automatic".
I found my 07 to have a really nice clutch - easily one of the best I
have used (except for the Civic Si, which has an even better clutch
feel). It sounds like you are out of practice with driving a manual
transmission. My advice is to drive a really hard manual, like an old
truck for a few weeks. Then get into the Subaru. It will feel like
magic.


I'm over the strains of having to use both arms and legs. I expected
that, and the steering is a bit harder than my old Chey, and it was
like exercise. Where the clutch grabs wasn't that comfortable, and it
will grab fast, but adjusting the seat when I don't feel comfortable,
helps. I thought I needed a different position for city and hwy, but
seems more if my muscles feel tight or not. I didn't like how hard it
was to get out of 1st, especially in the city where you have to stop
at almost every corner, and the revs dropping off before I could get
into 2nd, making driving the car, not very smooth. IT is getting
better, as am I, and I'm remembering to do things even before I start,
like flip the outside mirrors out, flip up the arm rest console, that
my elbow will hit when shifting, if it is down. A private pilot friend
said I needed a Predrive checklist.))

I have driven trucks, and even ones I had to double clutch. I
learned on a stick, and always bought them except for one, that I only
had 2 yrs, though I have had 2 auto's and missed not being able to
shift. I don't use the Sube for short trips in the city. My old Chevy
is good for that. I doubt the clutch on the Sube would last as long
with all the shifting I would have to do here.

VF
 

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