Notching Fumoto Oil drain valve in the H6

[null]

I just installed a Fumoto oil drain valve in my H6. I noticed that over at
scoobymods.com they
suggest notching the bottom of the valve so that you can get that extra
1/8 inch of oil out of the pan.
Well I found something interesting in the service manual about the engine.
The engine holds 7.2 U.S. quarts
of oil, the refill amount is 6.1 U.S. quarts so logic tells me that the
extra 1/8 inch of oil gained by
notching the valve doesn't do all that much given there's still an extra
quart in the engine. Just my .02

 

[Edward Hayes]

Yes but, that 1/8 inch of oil in the sump is where all the bad stuff is so
it is important to drain the sump. I prefer the safety of the drain plug and
if I was to use the Fumoto valve I would modify it so it drained as good as
a factory plug. eddie

 

[TG]

If the oil is doing it's job the "bad stuff" that could possibly get to the
moving engine parts should be suspended in the oil, not in the bottom of the
pan. Also the stuff in the bottom of the pan would probably stay there and
not cause any harm.
I suppose a pre-drain cleaner/flush (trans fluid) could be used to suspend
more of the "bad stuff" but this is definitely a bad idea.
I can't see how any of the draining option could be that much better or
worse than the others....probably sucking the oil out would be best but I
wouldn't think the engine would benefit a noticeable amount.
You always seem to give good helpful advice "Edward Hayes" so I would be
interested in any comments. TG

 

[Mr_Ed]

I thought about getting a Fumoto valve, but the idea of notching a grove
seemed like a pain. Oil change is already easy in my O3 Forester.

 

[Rick Courtright]

notching the valve doesn't do all that much given there's still an extra
quart in the engine. Just my .02

Hi,

I agree... you'll never get all the oil out of an engine by draining the
sump because there are so many "nooks and crannies" inside that hold
tiny amounts of oil it all adds up to that discrepancy between what the
engine truly holds and what comes out.

If you always change the oil hot, and do it on a regular basis (3k, 5k,
whatever your choice is), you'll have whatever crud can come loose
suspended in the oil. You'll get enough out to make any remaining
foreign material in that last 1/8" of academic interest only. If it
worries one that much, stick with the factory plug.

I've heard of people who pour a quart of clean oil thru the engine while
the plug's out to "wash out" remaining dirty oil. I suppose it wouldn't
hurt, but seems to be a bit anal and a waste of oil. Opinions will
vary...

Rick

 

[Guest]

null wrote:




Hi,

I agree... you'll never get all the oil out of an engine by draining the
sump because there are so many "nooks and crannies" inside that hold
tiny amounts of oil it all adds up to that discrepancy between what the
engine truly holds and what comes out.

If you always change the oil hot, and do it on a regular basis (3k, 5k,
whatever your choice is), you'll have whatever crud can come loose
suspended in the oil. You'll get enough out to make any remaining
foreign material in that last 1/8" of academic interest only. If it
worries one that much, stick with the factory plug.

I've heard of people who pour a quart of clean oil thru the engine while
the plug's out to "wash out" remaining dirty oil. I suppose it wouldn't
hurt, but seems to be a bit anal and a waste of oil. Opinions will
vary...

Rick

Include me the group that pours clean oil in while the plug's out. You
only have to put in a 1/4 quart till it comes out clean.
You can also include me in the Fumoto oil drain valve too, though.

 

[Cam Penner]

Include me the group that pours clean oil in while the plug's out. You
only have to put in a 1/4 quart till it comes out clean.
You can also include me in the Fumoto oil drain valve too, though.

Instead of notching the Fumoto, you could also use a couple
of washers between the valve and the drainpan. This will
effectively lower the height of the drain plug.

 

[Verbs Under My Gel]

Hi,

I agree... you'll never get all the oil out of an engine by draining the
sump because there are so many "nooks and crannies" inside that hold
tiny amounts of oil it all adds up to that discrepancy between what the
engine truly holds and what comes out.

If you always change the oil hot, and do it on a regular basis (3k, 5k,
whatever your choice is), you'll have whatever crud can come loose
suspended in the oil. You'll get enough out to make any remaining
foreign material in that last 1/8" of academic interest only. If it
worries one that much, stick with the factory plug.

I've heard of people who pour a quart of clean oil thru the engine while
the plug's out to "wash out" remaining dirty oil. I suppose it wouldn't
hurt, but seems to be a bit anal and a waste of oil. Opinions will
vary...

Rick

I remove the oil pan at each oil change, and wash it with solvent

 

[brentlz]

If you don't seek help at Charter, please seek help... ;-)

Brent.

 

[Al]

If you don't seek help at Charter, please seek help... ;-)

Brent.

That's nothin' I used to know a guy who took out his spark plugs every
morning and wiped them off. Now that's compulsive!

Al

 

[R]

I remove the oil pan at each oil change, and wash it with solvent

I drive someone else's car. That way when I change my oil, it's always
still clean.

 

[null]

Instead of notching the Fumoto, you could also use a couple
of washers between the valve and the drainpan. This will
effectively lower the height of the drain plug.

The fumto comes with a 'composite' washer I assume you put the metal
washers against the valve and the composite between the
pan and washer?

Given that I've put 20K+ miles in one year and next oil change I'll be
going to Amsoil synthetic I may just notch it or washer it as with Amsoil
I've had friends that now go 7500 miles between changes in harsher
environments then my car goes through.

On a sidenote does anyone have a torque spec / method for the fumoto as a
standard socket doesn't fit it? I would think the washer would affect
torque but after torquing to spec a Fram valve on my Wife's Pontiac and
shearing it off (boy was i pissed) I'm now leary about really cranking
down on this valve as it I don't want to have to remove the remains and
buy another.

 

[null]

That's nothin' I used to know a guy who took out his spark plugs every
morning and wiped them off. Now that's compulsive!

Al

He cleaned and reuesed them? Man that's scary. I just buy mine by the case
and replace them weekly.
I also drop the gas tank and drain to make sure there is no water. I also
change the oil with Mobil-1 full
synthetic bi-weekly. I clean my K&N each night so its dry by morning. I
also purchased an air ionizer so the
air coming into the intake is clean. It cost $5,000 but I think its worth
it. Next month the car will have 10K miles
on it so I'll have my dealer do a complete overhaul on the engine and
transmission and replace the the exhaust from
the catalytic back.

BTW, did he also replace the crush washer on the plug and index them so
they're positioned correctly?

 

[Alan Peterman]

I also drop the gas tank and drain to make sure there is no water. I also
change the oil with Mobil-1 full
synthetic bi-weekly. I clean my K&N each night so its dry by morning. I
also purchased an air ionizer so the
air coming into the intake is clean. It cost $5,000 but I think its worth
it. Next month the car will have 10K miles
on it so I'll have my dealer do a complete overhaul on the engine and
transmission and replace the the exhaust from
the catalytic back.

BTW, did he also replace the crush washer on the plug and index them so
they're positioned correctly?

You guys need to get with the program. It used to be that getting a new car was
easy to time - just do it when the ash tray filled up. Now with less folks
smoking, another system needs to be used, so I recommend getting the car
replaced instead of filling the tank with gasoline.

And make sure to change the air in the tires every few hundred miles - getting
it hot then cold is really hard on the nitrogen molecules.

 

[Verbs Under My Gel]

He cleaned and reuesed them? Man that's scary. I just buy mine by the case
and replace them weekly.
I also drop the gas tank and drain to make sure there is no water. I also
change the oil with Mobil-1 full
synthetic bi-weekly. I clean my K&N each night so its dry by morning. I
also purchased an air ionizer so the
air coming into the intake is clean. It cost $5,000 but I think its worth
it. Next month the car will have 10K miles
on it so I'll have my dealer do a complete overhaul on the engine and
transmission and replace the the exhaust from
the catalytic back.

BTW, did he also replace the crush washer on the plug and index them so
they're positioned correctly?

Glad to see you're completely NEGLECTING YOUR TIRES. I use special
equipment to make sure that the tires' circumferences are within 1/4
_micron_ of one another. This will ensure a long life for the center
diff.

By the way, if you're leaving your airbox empty while your K&N dries,
you'd better have your engine torn down and inspected (in a clean
room, obviously) IMMEDIATELY! Some dust may have gotten past the
airbox and into the engine.

 

[null]

Glad to see you're completely NEGLECTING YOUR TIRES. I use special
equipment to make sure that the tires' circumferences are within 1/4
_micron_ of one another. This will ensure a long life for the center
diff.

By the way, if you're leaving your airbox empty while your K&N dries,
you'd better have your engine torn down and inspected (in a clean
room, obviously) IMMEDIATELY! Some dust may have gotten past the
airbox and into the engine.

No I learned my lesson removing the filter once before and that lunar dust
got in. Now it stays
in a positive pressure, humidity controlled room that is buried 10.8 feet
under my backyard. I only
take the car out when the windspeed it below 1 mph and the sun is at
twilight, other I just drive my
junker car a Mclaren F1. It seems to be able to take the abuse. One time I
had my Scooby at the dairy Queen
and this kid came over and breathed on it. I had to rush home and wash it
immediately with de-ionized water.
I also run 70% nitrogen and 30% argon in my tires to keep any free radical
oxygen atoms from invading the inner
tire surface.

In case you out. White Knight industries has some really nice dust free
overalls so you can keep your interior
nice and clean. I keep a case of these in my trunk
http://info.wkep.com/index.php
I prefer the 31-75-600
http://info.wkep.com/mod.php?mod=catalog&op=show_product&product_id=143