Greetings all. We are quickly becoming a Subaru family. On our 2nd Outback(2012, 2015) and first XV Crosstrek (2015). Great cars for New England and overall.
I guess I will detail my situation here to get the most eyes on it:
* Bottomline: 2015 XV Crosstrek with 50K miles dead-in-the-water for over 3 months now. It's been at a dealer for over 2 months. I am ashamed and saddened by *my own* actions that lead me here: tapping into some wires in the overhead console (map-light area).
* Dealership situation: Was updated Friday (2 days ago, after 3 weeks of no communication I called for update). I am into this for at least $1600 at this point. Dealer service replaced Body Integrated Unit (BIU) with ZERO result. They now say they want to try the "key access module" (I think that's what they called it) for $1000. They also say since I grounded a wire to the iSight camera, that will be another about $3000. They say they need to just replace stuff until it works. What's interesting is that they don't know how much anything costs. They thought *about* $600 for the BIU, now they think *maybe* $1000 for key access module, and they don't know how much an iSight camera costs but once they did one and it cost $3000.
* Vehicle Status: Key fobs do NOTHING. As far as I know, the interior lights come on, the interior door lock buttons work, and there is a single light on the dashboard: a picture of a car with a lock on it. That's it. If you close the door while locked, it can only be opened with the physical key. Absolutely no computer access according to the service department.
* WHAT I DID: Attempting to connect a Rove Dash Cam, I tried using a popular adapter with the *unused* 3-prong rear-view mirror plug in the overhead console/map-light area. The car has a regular rear-view mirror with a manual switch for day/night driving but the plug for it is there. When I plugged my adapter in, I discovered there was no power at all. I couldn't find anything about a specific fuse for that connector so I used a multimeter to probe the wire-harnesses up there for 12 Volts and tapped my camera in.
I *thought* I had a decent ground in the unused rear-view power adapter but I did NOT (camera would not work). My multimeter just showed 12V so I tested by connecting my phone to the wires I had tapped into and I discovered it would cycle between charging and not-charging every second or so. I decided to move the ground wire to a bolt that was holding the iSight camera. The hot-wire was a random wire in one of the harnesses up there; one that had probes as 12V.
Rove Camera is WORKING: Tapping a hot-wire from a harness and grounding to a metal bolt connecting the iSight to the chassis, the camera worked. I took the car for a ride and everything was fine. Got home, retrieved video footage and celebrated my *genius* electrical work.
* Side-view mirrors and seat-heaters NOT working: Next morning, my daughter got in to drive (my Mother died 2 years ago and left this car to my daughter who now has her driving permit). My daughter tells me she can't adjust the side-view mirrors. I see in the manual it is the same fuse for mirrors and seat-heaters. She drives to school and I drive back home, about 20 miles total. I replace the blown fuse when I get home. Turn the car on, and ALL the idiot lights are on. Car starts and works, but no iSight, engine oil light on, transmission light on.....basically every light like a Xmas tree.
* ODBII Reader: I connect my ODBII reader expecting 20 error codes, but there is only one, showing a CVT transmission problem diagnosing a possible open circuit. I checked the fuse under the hood but it was fine so I used the ODB reader to clear the code and see if it came back or something else..... that was it, after clearing the code the car became a brick as described above. Key fobs don't work, must use the physical key to unlock the door, map-lights work, door button for lock/unlock work, one light on dash showing half-car with a padlock on it.
* Pleas for help: Any advice or suggestions? The dealer is telling me they need to replace various modules until it works. The last communication puts me at about $6000 to fix the car but they don't know if it will fix the car, I just need to keep paying for new parts until it works. I feel like I am being taken for a ride but cannot deny my own hand in this.
I am ready to pay what I owe, cut bait and start fishing for another car but not gonna lie I feel it is odd that the dealer is unable to repair and is absolutely clueless on what to do.
I know this is quite a long post. Hopefully the bullet points help keep things clear.
I guess I will detail my situation here to get the most eyes on it:
* Bottomline: 2015 XV Crosstrek with 50K miles dead-in-the-water for over 3 months now. It's been at a dealer for over 2 months. I am ashamed and saddened by *my own* actions that lead me here: tapping into some wires in the overhead console (map-light area).
* Dealership situation: Was updated Friday (2 days ago, after 3 weeks of no communication I called for update). I am into this for at least $1600 at this point. Dealer service replaced Body Integrated Unit (BIU) with ZERO result. They now say they want to try the "key access module" (I think that's what they called it) for $1000. They also say since I grounded a wire to the iSight camera, that will be another about $3000. They say they need to just replace stuff until it works. What's interesting is that they don't know how much anything costs. They thought *about* $600 for the BIU, now they think *maybe* $1000 for key access module, and they don't know how much an iSight camera costs but once they did one and it cost $3000.
* Vehicle Status: Key fobs do NOTHING. As far as I know, the interior lights come on, the interior door lock buttons work, and there is a single light on the dashboard: a picture of a car with a lock on it. That's it. If you close the door while locked, it can only be opened with the physical key. Absolutely no computer access according to the service department.
* WHAT I DID: Attempting to connect a Rove Dash Cam, I tried using a popular adapter with the *unused* 3-prong rear-view mirror plug in the overhead console/map-light area. The car has a regular rear-view mirror with a manual switch for day/night driving but the plug for it is there. When I plugged my adapter in, I discovered there was no power at all. I couldn't find anything about a specific fuse for that connector so I used a multimeter to probe the wire-harnesses up there for 12 Volts and tapped my camera in.
I *thought* I had a decent ground in the unused rear-view power adapter but I did NOT (camera would not work). My multimeter just showed 12V so I tested by connecting my phone to the wires I had tapped into and I discovered it would cycle between charging and not-charging every second or so. I decided to move the ground wire to a bolt that was holding the iSight camera. The hot-wire was a random wire in one of the harnesses up there; one that had probes as 12V.
Rove Camera is WORKING: Tapping a hot-wire from a harness and grounding to a metal bolt connecting the iSight to the chassis, the camera worked. I took the car for a ride and everything was fine. Got home, retrieved video footage and celebrated my *genius* electrical work.
* Side-view mirrors and seat-heaters NOT working: Next morning, my daughter got in to drive (my Mother died 2 years ago and left this car to my daughter who now has her driving permit). My daughter tells me she can't adjust the side-view mirrors. I see in the manual it is the same fuse for mirrors and seat-heaters. She drives to school and I drive back home, about 20 miles total. I replace the blown fuse when I get home. Turn the car on, and ALL the idiot lights are on. Car starts and works, but no iSight, engine oil light on, transmission light on.....basically every light like a Xmas tree.
* ODBII Reader: I connect my ODBII reader expecting 20 error codes, but there is only one, showing a CVT transmission problem diagnosing a possible open circuit. I checked the fuse under the hood but it was fine so I used the ODB reader to clear the code and see if it came back or something else..... that was it, after clearing the code the car became a brick as described above. Key fobs don't work, must use the physical key to unlock the door, map-lights work, door button for lock/unlock work, one light on dash showing half-car with a padlock on it.
* Pleas for help: Any advice or suggestions? The dealer is telling me they need to replace various modules until it works. The last communication puts me at about $6000 to fix the car but they don't know if it will fix the car, I just need to keep paying for new parts until it works. I feel like I am being taken for a ride but cannot deny my own hand in this.
I am ready to pay what I owe, cut bait and start fishing for another car but not gonna lie I feel it is odd that the dealer is unable to repair and is absolutely clueless on what to do.
I know this is quite a long post. Hopefully the bullet points help keep things clear.
