larger battery in wrx?

[peter]

The battery in my 2002 wrx is getting weak; the starter sometimes crank slow
on cold mornings. I think I contributed to the battery's weakness by
accidentally leaving the dome light on overnight once in a while.

Anyway, I believe the battery is size "group 35". Has anyone managed to put
a larger battery in the car with minimum or no modification? If so, what
size battery?

In case you wonder, larger one seems more cost effective.

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

The battery in my 2002 wrx is getting weak; the starter sometimes crank slow
on cold mornings. I think I contributed to the battery's weakness by
accidentally leaving the dome light on overnight once in a while.

Anyway, I believe the battery is size "group 35". Has anyone managed to put
a larger battery in the car with minimum or no modification? If so, what
size battery?

In case you wonder, larger one seems more cost effective.

Depending on where you live and how severely the battery was abused -
you may just need a new one. Here I where I live 2.5 years is about
average and 4 is definitely living on 'borrowed' time.

Carl

 

[dr.benway]

I put in a Bosch battery with 640CCa. It was virtually the same size..

 

[Ragnar]

The battery in my 2002 wrx is getting weak; the starter sometimes crank slow
on cold mornings. I think I contributed to the battery's weakness by
accidentally leaving the dome light on overnight once in a while.

Anyway, I believe the battery is size "group 35". Has anyone managed to put
a larger battery in the car with minimum or no modification? If so, what
size battery?

In case you wonder, larger one seems more cost effective.

Get an Optima. Same size as stock but better.

 

[Porgy Tirebiter]

I put in a Bosch battery with 640CCa. It was virtually the same size..

"CCA" or cold cranking amps DON'T MEAN SHIT!!!!
Unless you are starting a BIG diesel in 0 degree weather it's a stupid
rating.
You want a battery with a large "Reserve" or "Amp-hour" rating. This means
you can leave lights on, radio for a while and still start the engine.
If the battery doesn't have that info on it DO NOT BUY IT!

 

[mulder]

The battery in my 2002 wrx is getting weak; the starter sometimes crank slow
on cold mornings. I think I contributed to the battery's weakness by
accidentally leaving the dome light on overnight once in a while.

Anyway, I believe the battery is size "group 35". Has anyone managed to put
a larger battery in the car with minimum or no modification? If so, what
size battery?

In case you wonder, larger one seems more cost effective.

The stock battery is rated at 350CCA which is marginal and does not
provide good cranking performance in the winter. It also gets worse as
the battery ages and loses capacity.
Another factor is that this is not a maintenance-free battery, the
water level in the cells must be checked periodically and topped off
as needed. Many owners are not aware of this and neglect it resulting
in eventual battery failure.
You don't need a physically larger battery, just one with higher
capacity. Almost any aftermarket battery will offer significantly
higher cranking and reserve ratings then the OEM battery and most are
also maintenance free.
An excellent replacement and upgrade is the Optima Group 35 Red Top,
it will replace your old battery directly and provide much improved
performance. The Optima is a sealed zero-maintenance battery with no
liquid electrolyte and has many advantages over a conventional
battery, although they do cost more. You can get the correct battery
here-
http://www.remybattery.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=35-910
I have the Red Top in my WRX and it's going on five years old, still
works as well as when I put it in.

 

[peter]

Another factor is that this is not a maintenance-free battery, the
water level in the cells must be checked periodically and topped off
as needed. Many owners are not aware of this and neglect it resulting
in eventual battery failure.

That is so true. I only realize this after reading your post. Fortunately,
the water level are not off too much -- all electrodes are still submerged.
I only had to add about 1cm of water level. I think I'm still going to have
to replace the battery.

An excellent replacement and upgrade is the Optima Group 35 Red Top,
it will replace your old battery directly and provide much improved
performance. The Optima is a sealed zero-maintenance battery with no
liquid electrolyte and has many advantages over a conventional
battery, although they do cost more. You can get the correct battery
here-

The oct 06 issue of consumer reports have a battery test. Unfortunately they
didn't include optima. I think I'll just stick with a regular batter since I
may not keep the car very long.

Thanks.

 

[Kevin Hall]

We bought our '99 Forester in 2000, and have yet to change the battery.
It's a Panasonic, which I can't find up here in the bush, but it is truly
amazing. If it is the original, it's been in the car since it was built
in '98 which is incredible life even in ideal conditions.

We live in the Ottawa Valley of eastern Ontario where winters are long and
hard, often falling to -30C or worse, but we have yet to have any trouble
starting the Suby.

Every winter I have the thing checked in fall, expecting to have to replace
it and every time our tame mechanic tells me it's fine. So far he's right.

KH

 

[y_p_w]

The stock battery is rated at 350CCA which is marginal and does not
provide good cranking performance in the winter. It also gets worse as
the battery ages and loses capacity.
Another factor is that this is not a maintenance-free battery, the
water level in the cells must be checked periodically and topped off
as needed. Many owners are not aware of this and neglect it resulting
in eventual battery failure.

Some people living in hot climates seem to prefer batteries
that can be topped off, after the inevitable evaporation.
One comment from someone in Florida was that a "maintenance-
free" battery probably wouldn't last longer than 2 years due
to evaporation.

Theoretically most batteries can be topped off with water
even if the caps are somewhat sealed or glue in place. Not
usually recommended though.

My Panasonic OEM battery is a somewhat translucent white.
If the light is good enough, I can make out the acid level
in the battery. If not, a light shone on the side and I
can tell. Some maintenance free batteries are dark and
opaque, which would make it hard to tell if the level is
low (and thus should be replaced).

 

[peter]

Some people living in hot climates seem to prefer batteries
that can be topped off, after the inevitable evaporation.
One comment from someone in Florida was that a "maintenance-
free" battery probably wouldn't last longer than 2 years due
to evaporation.

I thought the whole idea of maintenance free battery is that they somehow
don't evaporate.
Are you saying manufacturers could just seal their batteries and call them
maintenance free?

 

[dr.benway]

Any more poweful battery is better than that weenie 310 cca battery.

 

[y_p_w]

I thought the whole idea of maintenance free battery
is that they somehow don't evaporate. Are you saying
manufacturers could just seal their batteries and
call them maintenance free?

I believe it would be unsafe to make a rechargeable
battery that's perfectly sealed and doesn't outgas.
It could explode if overcharged, especially in hot
climates. I believe "maintenance-free" batteries
have lower water loss than "low maintenance" types.

I've edited answer #5 for the stuff of heat.

<http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/battery_care/battery_iq.pdf>

Answer true or false and check your answers at the end of the quiz.

* Once a maintenance-free battery is installed, you
never need to pay attention to it again.

5. False. Keep in mind too, that the term “maintenance-
free” applies to normal operating conditions. In extreme
high heat, and other conditions, you may need to add
water to the battery. Exide batteries are maintenance-
free and maintenance accessible allowing you to check
and/or add water, if required.

 

[Body Roll]

Are you saying manufacturers could just seal their batteries and call them
maintenance free?

You got it. I plan to watch the acid levels in the oem battery
religiously, top it off as needed and hope to get no fewer than 8 years
of service out of it if I end up keeping the car that long.
Changing tires every two years is okay by me, battery on the other
hand should last forever if properly pampered.
I think there is a section in the owners manual that calls for
the battery fluid level check. So whoever skimps on that: it's their
loss
really. It's not like they haven't been informed by FHI.

 

[y_p_w]

You got it. I plan to watch the acid levels in the oem battery
religiously, top it off as needed and hope to get no fewer than 8 years
of service out of it if I end up keeping the car that long.
Changing tires every two years is okay by me, battery on the other
hand should last forever if properly pampered.
I think there is a section in the owners manual that calls for
the battery fluid level check. So whoever skimps on that: it's their
loss
really. It's not like they haven't been informed by FHI.

I don't know if it will last forever. The plates will
eventually shed and capacity will be reduced. Still -
water loss can happen even in maintenance-free batteries.

BTW - I did enough reading to note that most "maintenance
free" lead-acid batteries use lead-calcium plates, while
"low maintenance" batteries typically use lead-antimony
plates. The material in maintenance free batteries is
supposed to reduce evaporation, but at least low
maintenance batteries can be restored by simply adding
water.

 

[Jiøí Lejsek]

First you should consider for how long you want to keep the car - when less
than 4 years, do not invest much.
The most important parameter you should follow is capacity - in my manual
there is 48 Ah - because it must withstand recharging current which is
derived from capacity. High recharging current damages baterry. So you can
use battery with higher capacity and you can expect its longer life.
But battery life is unpredictable. My wife's TOYOTA has a battery (probably
some cheap) more than 6 years old (buyed car with it) and still without any
problems.

 

[Rick Courtright]

You got it. I plan to watch the acid levels in the oem battery
religiously, top it off as needed and hope to get no fewer than 8
years of service out of it if I end up keeping the car that long.

Hi,

Many years ago, it was possible to expect that kind of life out of a
"premium" battery (early Sears Die-Hards often lasted incredible amounts
of time--I got almost 10 yrs out of one), but with today's batteries, it
seems five years is about the best I can get. I live where it gets
rather hot during the summer, and, even keeping the fluid levels
"perfect," the battery suffers. Then one cold morning, it's pretty much
a goner. And, to tell the truth, batteries sold as "hot weather"
batteries haven't done any better than "regular" ones IME. So I think
your climate will have a major effect on the overall life... with heat
being a bigger enemy than cold.

Rick

 

[Rick Courtright]

it and every time our tame mechanic tells me it's fine. So far he's > right.

Hi,

Where do you find one of those? Most mechanics I know are a bit wild...

Sorry, couldn't resist the typo!

Rick