How to separate engine from transmission?

[Stewart DIBBS]

I'm attempting to remove the EJ25D engine from my 98 Forester. Engine
mounts, starter, 2nd top bolt and two bottom nuts have been removed from the
bell housing. Looking at my replacement engine this appears all that's
required. The flywheel inspection cover (secured with M6 bolts) is
inaccessible until the engine is out from what I can see, and not attached
to the bell housing.

The engine is lifted with a crane to free the mount bolts from the
cross-member, but the engine does not want to separate from the transmission
even with violent shaking. My guess is that the bell housing pins are
jammed with corrosion. The bell housing has shifted about .002" only.

Have I missed something?

Any suggestions on where or what to hit to free this? On the block about
20mm from the bell housing pins there's a horizontal unused M10 bolt hole.
Is this maybe for a bolt used to press something on the inner bell housing
to free it (like is done with drum brakes)?

SD

 

[Stewart DIBBS]

Just found some how-to videos on ultimatesubaru website. I'll try it
tomorrow.

SD

 

[S]

Hi Stewart!

Once all of the engine - bell housing bolts are out (there are 6
IIRC), the snubber thing, and exhaust are off,and the motor mounts are
loose, take a sharp wood chisel, align it with the seam in the
vicinity of one of the bolt holes (the casting is thicker there), and
drive it in. Do a little on one side, insert a place keeper such as a
table knife, then go to the other side and repeat. Once started, it
will usually pop apart, but on stubborn ones, you might have to work
down the sides as well.
This sounds harsh, but any scars left from the chisel are easily
cleaned up with a file, and it's not a sealing surface anyway.
Good luck with that swap.

ByeBye! S.

I'm attempting to remove the EJ25D engine from my 98 Forester. Engine
mounts, starter, 2nd top bolt and two bottom nuts have been removed from the
bell housing. Looking at my replacement engine this appears all that's
required. The flywheel inspection cover (secured with M6 bolts) is
inaccessible until the engine is out from what I can see, and not attached
to the bell housing.

The engine is lifted with a crane to free the mount bolts from the
cross-member, but the engine does not want to separate from the transmission
even with violent shaking. My guess is that the bell housing pins are
jammed with corrosion. The bell housing has shifted about .002" only.

Have I missed something?

Any suggestions on where or what to hit to free this? On the block about
20mm from the bell housing pins there's a horizontal unused M10 bolt hole.
Is this maybe for a bolt used to press something on the inner bell housing
to free it (like is done with drum brakes)?

SD

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Stewart DIBBS]

Geeeez, was that a BEAR!!!

I now have on my garage floor ...
a) one EJ25D with new relatively new head gaskets, bent valves and an
unjammed idler sprocket; and
b) another EJ25D with perhaps original head gaskets, new belt, idlers, oil
pan, and a whole lot of clean up.

Tomorrow I swap the flywheel and clutch, check everything and put b) back
into the car.

Guess this was a fast-track (rather than crash) course in Subaru. I now know
pretty much everything I wanted about older Subes.

SD

 

[S]

Hi again Stewart !

When you go to slide the engine back in:
Get a piece of 2X4 and put it between the bell housing and cross
member to hold the tranny at an angle.
Position the engine, and move the chain, rope, whatever to match the
engine to the angle of the bell housing (BH).
Carefully bring the opening of the clutch stack in over the input
shaft until it stops, hopefully because the splines aren't in
alignment. There will be maybe 3/4 to 1 inch between the BH and engine
block at this point.
Double check that the engine and BH angles match, and then have
someone slowly rotate the input shaft (put the tranny in a higher
gear, block one wheel, and turn the other), while you sorta muscle the
engine into place. Usually the above technique will pop it right in,
but sometimes it takes some creative language as well. When things
align, you will feel the splines catch, and then be able to push the
engine to within about 1/4 inch of the BH with little effort. From
there, use the BH bolts to finish the job. You're mostly done now;
Good Job! Enjoy a beer while you tidy up the engine compartment
etc.

ByeBye! S.

Geeeez, was that a BEAR!!!

I now have on my garage floor ...
a) one EJ25D with new relatively new head gaskets, bent valves and an
unjammed idler sprocket; and
b) another EJ25D with perhaps original head gaskets, new belt, idlers, oil
pan, and a whole lot of clean up.

Tomorrow I swap the flywheel and clutch, check everything and put b) back
into the car.

Guess this was a fast-track (rather than crash) course in Subaru. I now know
pretty much everything I wanted about older Subes.

SD

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Stewart DIBBS]

... but sometimes it takes some creative language as well.

I was in the australian army years ago and I'm sure my my creative
vocabulary will be more than adequate!

SD

 

[Airport Shuttle]

Do you have pics? It would be nice to see before and after pics

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

I was in the australian army years ago and I'm sure my my creative
vocabulary will be more than adequate!

SD

I majored in "Creative Languages", and even make up my own!

 

[Stewart DIBBS]

Do you have pics? It would be nice to see before and after pics.

Sure, before and after what? Getting the engine / trans apart, or the
Forester engine bay with the new engine?

I've cleaned up the mating surfaces, and replaced one of the dowel pins .
These press tightly into the block, and should easily fit the bell housing.
I cleaned up the 10mm bell housing holes with a 9.8mm drill bit and some
rolled 600grit paper, and lubed them (and will later the mating surfaces)
with aluminium anti-seize grease. The pins now slide into the bell housing
and should separate next time (!) it's necessary.

SD

 

[Airport Shuttle]

It would be nice to see pics of the project.

 

[Stewart DIBBS]

Well, that was, err, fun!

The "new" (180K-200K km) engine is back in, the coolant burped (I can't
hear any gurgling when I squeeze the top hose), and it all seems to run
smoothly. There was quite a bit of smoke initially which stopped after a few
minutes of running, so I'm guessing the valve seals were a bit dry. Just in
case I'll put in some oil treatment and watch it.

Thanks to all who advised.

SD