Forester - Maximizing Fuel Mileage?

B

BRH

With gas prices increasing by the day, like most people I would like to
maximize my overall gas mileage on my 2001 Forester (automatic
transmission). Normally, I get about 24-25 mpg in mixed driving.

At what engine rpm does the engine run most efficiently? Although I've
slowed down my driving speed, I don't see the gas mileage improving.
Around town, I've been keeping it at 40 or under and on the highway,
between 60-65.

Also, would removing the roof rack make any significant difference in
gas mileage?

Thanks!
 
Just went on a road trip with my 2001 Forester. Taking off the roof
rack makes very little difference in gas mileage. I also found mileage
did not change very much regarding highway speeds as well, our speeds
ranged from 60 to 80.

The biggest difference in gas mileage you will find is very dependent
on the stopping and starting, ie your driving habits. Do you floor it
away from the the light? Do you coast to a stop or jam on the brakes at
the last minute? Do you idle in traffic!!!!!????

If you place a very non aerodynamic item on the roof rack, then yes
your gas mileage will drop.
 
My 2000 Forester gets ~22 mpg with air on 100 % here in Florida. My
best mileage is found when my AT shifts at ~2-2200 rpm and the torque
converter locks up at 35-37 mph. I do not force the car to 2200 rpm
and let off but, ease up to the rpm. I keep my car in good tune, use
major brand gas and run my tires about 3 psig over recommended or
34/32 psi. I think removing the roof cross bars add no measurable
increase in mileage. In addition I do not carry a load of unnecessary
stuff in my car that adds weight. i.e. mother-in-law.
 
have a 98 forester 5 sp. once went 400 miles at 60mph and got about 35 mpg.
also, i use synthetic oil.
 
With gas prices increasing by the day, like most people I would like to
maximize my overall gas mileage on my 2001 Forester (automatic
transmission). Normally, I get about 24-25 mpg in mixed driving.

At what engine rpm does the engine run most efficiently? Although I've
slowed down my driving speed, I don't see the gas mileage improving.
Around town, I've been keeping it at 40 or under and on the highway,
between 60-65.

The new Consumer Reports has a write-up on this very topic. They claim any
gasoline engine when going faster than 60 mph uses up far more gas than
maintaining speed at 60 mph. The flaw I find here is that they don't
mention at what RPMs this 60 mph vehicle's engine is running. Differing
gear ratios can make all the difference and should I have a 6-speed, I'm
damn well going faster than 60! Back to reality, I dont have a 6-speed but
I've had plenty of sticks that vary widely between speed/rpm ratios. Maybe
I need to re-read as they may be reffering to an auto but I'd thkn the same
idea applies.
Also, would removing the roof rack make any significant difference in gas
mileage?

Again citing CR, a rack can make about a 5% difference
 
Jerre Bassler said:
Industry standards claim synthetic oils will give 2-5% on average.

Synthetic Oil would probably have the most gains for those who make short
trips I would think
 
The new Consumer Reports has a write-up on this very topic. They
claim any gasoline engine when going faster than 60 mph uses up far
more gas than maintaining speed at 60 mph. The flaw I find here is
that they don't mention at what RPMs this 60 mph vehicle's engine is
running. Differing gear ratios can make all the difference and should
I have a 6-speed, I'm damn well going faster than 60! Back to
reality, I dont have a 6-speed but I've had plenty of sticks that vary
widely between speed/rpm ratios. Maybe I need to re-read as they may
be reffering to an auto but I'd thkn the same idea applies.

I would take Consumer Reports with a grain of salt.

Consider the following on their web page, amusingly dated Oct 2005:

The problem with new-car models
Think twice about buying a newly designed model
in its first year

When a new model is introduced, the media buzz and marketing
hoopla can tempt you to be the first on your block
to drive one home. But this can cost you in
dollars, time, and hassle.

I have owned a few new cars, some in the first year of a new model
and some in the last year. The car that gave me the most problems
was in its last year of production. The two cars that gave me
the least aggravation were brand spanking new to the market:
a 1982 Accord sedan, and the 6th Acura ever to be delivered in my
city.



Since wind drag increases with the square of speed, it becomes
significant more quickly. Stick your hand out the window. At
50 mph you can start to feel something. By 70 you have to be
careful how you shape your hand. By 120 you'll have trouble
doing much with it. Below 50, the gas engine isn't very efficient
because it hasn't been designed to be. It has too much available
power. You only use about 15hp in the average small car at 60 mph
to maintain a constant speed.

But to state that going over 60 is far more wasteful is too vague
a generalization. How about 62? Far better advice is to suggest
people travel at a speed that is close to normal speed on that
road for safety, but as slowly as practical for best efficiency.

I've done many long trips where the speed during the day was
fairly constant. At about 50 mph I get 40% better than the
overall yearly combined mpg, and about 27% better at 70 mph.

Different engines are designed to run at different speeds,
so unless you know the engine design, the rpm isn't going
to tell you all that much. A corvette running at 1600 rpm
at 60 mph eats more than my car at 3000 rpm at 60.

The number of gears doesn't tell you much either, since most
6 speed transmissions, auto or manual, are designed to
be more closely spaced ratios than a 5 speed to keep the engine
in the power band. The top gear is often virtually the same
ratio as it would be in a 5 speed or even a 4 speed auto.

Maybe one thing we'll see on newer cars is a taller top
gear for fuel efficiency with much lower revs at highway speeds.
I would assume most manufacturers
don't like to put too high a ratio because it makes the car
rather slow to respond. Ideally there should be almost no power
left to accelerate the car - you should be using almost
full throttle to keep a constant speed.
 
John said:
The new Consumer Reports has a write-up on this very topic. They claim any
gasoline engine when going faster than 60 mph uses up far more gas than
maintaining speed at 60 mph. The flaw I find here is that they don't
mention at what RPMs this 60 mph vehicle's engine is running. Differing
gear ratios can make all the difference and should I have a 6-speed, I'm
damn well going faster than 60!

The consumer reports claim is simply rubbish. You can design a gasoline
engined (or any other type of engine) vehicle to be at its most
efficient at any speed you like, whether 30 mph or 300 mph. It's all a
question of the power available and the aerodynamics and what other
compromises you want to make.

This, for example, gets 39.5 mpg (3.8 gal/hour) at 150 mph with two
people (at sea level -- it gets better at higher altitudes):

http://www.stemme.de/daten/e/produkte/s8/s8td.htm
 
With gas prices increasing by the day, like most people I would like to
maximize my overall gas mileage on my 2001 Forester (automatic
transmission). Normally, I get about 24-25 mpg in mixed driving.

At what engine rpm does the engine run most efficiently? Although I've
slowed down my driving speed, I don't see the gas mileage improving.
Around town, I've been keeping it at 40 or under and on the highway,
between 60-65.

Also, would removing the roof rack make any significant difference in
gas mileage?

Do you actually have a roof rack, or do you mean the cross bars which
are mounted on the roof rails? Either way, yes. Get rid. You should
never leave the cross rails on when you are not using them. Weight
makes a difference as well. Don't caryy stuff around in your car that
you don't need.. Also, check your tyre pressures regularly and make
sure they are up to pressure. Running low tyre pressures will imact on
fuel consumption.

Biggest difference you can make is with driving style. It used to be
believed that gentle acceleration was the best way to go, but research
in recent years shows that it is much more efficient to accelerate
briskly up to your cruising speed. Anticipatory driving is most
important. Leave big gaps to other traffic, keep your concentration
levels high and think well ahead. That way, you can avoid losing
momentum.

All of the above can make a difference of two, three or even four mpg,
which is significant on a long journey. To measure your consumption
accurately you will need to brim your tank to a point where you can
actually see the fuel every time and record the precise fuel quantity
and exact mileage. Don't rely on rough calculations or onboard
computers, which won't give you an accurate enough figure for your
purposes.

David Betts
(e-mail address removed)
 
The problem with new-car models
Think twice about buying a newly designed model
in its first year

When a new model is introduced, the media buzz and marketing
hoopla can tempt you to be the first on your block
to drive one home. But this can cost you in
dollars, time, and hassle.

I have owned a few new cars, some in the first year of a new model
and some in the last year. The car that gave me the most problems
was in its last year of production. The two cars that gave me
the least aggravation were brand spanking new to the market:
a 1982 Accord sedan, and the 6th Acura ever to be delivered in my
city.

I totally concur with you on that one. I took a chance a while back
and bought (new) one of the first 1984 Dodge Caravans. In addition to
being a brand new model, it was a new concept from a company that was
close to major financial problems. Other than normal wear and tear
items like brakes & shocks, tune ups, I had no significant problems
till it was over 190,000 miles when I had to replace the auto trans. I
traded it in at 230,000 and even at that point the 4 cyl engine barely
used any oil.
 
Foresters really suck on mpg then. My 04 outback never gets less than
22. Usually averages 24-25 with one long trip getting 28 . I have the
K&n filter and only use full synthetic oil. Tires usually @ 32psi all
around
 
Maybe one thing we'll see on newer cars is a taller top
gear for fuel efficiency with much lower revs at highway speeds.

IF the transmission doesn't jump out of overdrive too often, them it
might help. For example, I used to manage a fleet of Chevy vans. I
noticed that they would drop out of overdrive with the slightest
increase in load. The next batch I ordered with a higher ratio
differential. Dealer said the engine would run faster and use more
gas. I disagreed. I was right. The transmissions stayed in overdirve
longer and average MPG increased 8%. Pretty good for a fleet!

One fuel economizing device that should be brought back is the vacuum
gage.
 
John said:
The new Consumer Reports has a write-up on this very topic. They claim any
gasoline engine when going faster than 60 mph uses up far more gas than
maintaining speed at 60 mph. The flaw I find here is that they don't
mention at what RPMs this 60 mph vehicle's engine is running. Differing
gear ratios can make all the difference and should I have a 6-speed, I'm
damn well going faster than 60! Back to reality, I dont have a 6-speed but
I've had plenty of sticks that vary widely between speed/rpm ratios. Maybe
I need to re-read as they may be reffering to an auto but I'd thkn the same
idea applies.




Again citing CR, a rack can make about a 5% difference
Air resistance is the enemy. Calculating the power needed to move
down the road, air resistance is a cube function, every time you
double the speed, the power requirement goes up 8x.

An engine is most efficient at the speed that max torque is achieved.
The secret is to find the best compromise between high engine
efficiency and min wind resistance. Stop and go driving, rapid
acceleration and heavy use of the brakes are hard on fuel consumption.

Mickey
 
Grolsch said:
Synthetic Oil would probably have the most gains for those who make short
trips I would think

Actually - current equivalent weight synthetic oils probably don't
have any better fuel economy characteristics compared to modern
conventional oils of the same viscosity. Friction reducers in all
modern oils make the frictional losses from oil neglible in regards
to fuel economy. The primary difference when it comes to fuel
economy is viscosity.

Most multiviscosity conventional oils will thin down as their VI
improver shears, which can increase fuel economy. However - this
may not be ideal for long-term engine protection.

Now there are some really thin synthetic oils (0W-20, 0W-30) which
can be designed for superior fuel economy chararcteristics compared
to a typical 5W-30/10W-30. It's currently not feasible to make an
API rated conventional oil in those weights.
 
David Betts said:
Biggest difference you can make is with driving style. It used to be
believed that gentle acceleration was the best way to go, but research
in recent years shows that it is much more efficient to accelerate
briskly up to your cruising speed. Anticipatory driving is most
important. Leave big gaps to other traffic, keep your concentration
levels high and think well ahead. That way, you can avoid losing
momentum.

Don't use the brakes! Slow down by cruising as much as possible. If
you use the brakes to stop from 80 mph in 100 yards instead of lifting
off the gas half a mile back then you waste all the fuel that you used
to maintain your 80 mph for that half mile. That's about a fiftieth of
a gallon (5+ cents) each time. You migth not stop very often, but the
same applies to corners. Oh, and engine braking is just as bad as
brakes from this point of view.

All of the above can make a difference of two, three or even four mpg,
which is significant on a long journey. To measure your consumption
accurately you will need to brim your tank to a point where you can
actually see the fuel every time and record the precise fuel quantity
and exact mileage. Don't rely on rough calculations or onboard
computers, which won't give you an accurate enough figure for your
purposes.

I find that if you can use the same pump at the same station then the
auto-cutoff is quite consistent. Even different pumps are quite close,
usually. The main thing is to fill it yourself so that you can prevent
an attendent from "helping" you by topping off some random amount
manually.

And if all else fails, the total fuel put in over a number of sequential
tankfulls will get more and more accurately measured in percentage error
terms.
 
WRT cutting the engine off at a red light: Won't the extra gas used at each
start-up offset the amount saved when shut off, especially for 30-45 seconds
at a red light?
 
Apparantly 30 seconds of idling uses twice the gas of a restart (electronic
fuel injection), so theoretically 15 secs is enough to start saving gas (and
reduce emmisions). Starter wear may be a factor, but these aren't Fords (or
GM or Chrysler) so I don't expect problems. I think the main thing to
remember for saving gas is Drive when you NEED to and choose alternates
whenever available or wait to combine trips. Also always try to preserve
momentum, it's that initial inertia that kills the MPG's in the City.
 
@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
(e-mail address removed) says...
Foresters really suck on mpg then. My 04 outback never gets less than
22. Usually averages 24-25 with one long trip getting 28 . I have the
K&n filter and only use full synthetic oil. Tires usually @ 32psi all
around


oooh..."you got a K&N?!?!"

Wooooowwwwww!

....did the sticker give you an extra 5 MPG??!

....oh---Hi Jabaria!
 
oooh..."you got a K&N?!?!"
Wooooowwwwww!
...did the sticker give you an extra 5 MPG??!

heh, mine gave me ~2, but I guess I could be driving differently, but
don't think so.
 

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