electric drain

[abrodin]

Subaru Legacy 1990 sedan
There appears to be a electric drain while the car is parked/off.
Although there is power for the dash lights, when trying to start, the
starter turns once and then locks/clicks. Auto transmission locks and
shifter will not move. If I recharge the battery, unlock transmission
and put in neutral, the engine will start. Once started it can be
driven normally. Then after sitting all night, the battery is
discharged enough so again the starter turns once, then locks & clicks
and transmission locks. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

[Jody F. Kerr]

It could be a number of different things.

First off, are you sure the battery is good? Always get that checked first
before diving into your electrical system.

Next, any type of vampiric drain should be readable as an amperage draw off
the battery.

To diagnose where it's going, remove the positive cable from the terminal.
Insert a multitester in serial making sure it's set to read amperage.
Generally speaking a modern car should only be drawing milliamps of power
when it's turned off. If it's correctly set up and you're reading amperage,
the next step is to remove your fuses one by one and note any changes to the
amperage draw. Start with any aftermarket items you may have had installed.

By going through in this fashion it will allow you to isolate the circuit in
question and then diagnose the circuit itself. A few drains that I see often
are: alarm systems, radios, faulty ignitions, broken automatic window
switches, broken automatic lock switches, interior dome lights (door closed
trigger doesn't activate correctly).

Jody


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[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

It could be a number of different things.

First off, are you sure the battery is good? Always get that checked
first before diving into your electrical system.

Next, any type of vampiric drain should be readable as an amperage draw
off the battery.

To diagnose where it's going, remove the positive cable from the
terminal. Insert a multitester in serial making sure it's set to read
amperage. Generally speaking a modern car should only be drawing
milliamps of power when it's turned off. If it's correctly set up and
you're reading amperage, the next step is to remove your fuses one by
one and note any changes to the amperage draw. Start with any
aftermarket items you may have had installed.

By going through in this fashion it will allow you to isolate the
circuit in question and then diagnose the circuit itself. A few drains
that I see often are: alarm systems, radios, faulty ignitions, broken
automatic window switches, broken automatic lock switches, interior dome
lights (door closed trigger doesn't activate correctly).

Jody

Yeah, in my part of the country a battery is doing well to last more
than 3 years. But in cooler states - 6+ is doable.

I wouldn't discount the possibility of a bad alternator (diode trio) -
especially if pulling the fuses as outlined is of no help.

One simple thing, disconnect the battery overnight, reconnect. If it
won't start - must be the battery, if it starts well - its a drain.


Carl