HI David, All!
Hi, My clutch has just started slipping... Just in time for the camping
season typical. I've a couple of questions. i) Is it possible for a man
with mediocre mechanical skills 4 axle stands and a reasonable tool kit to
undertake the replacement on the drive? If so will I need any specialist
tools and any idea's where I could get the procedure from ii) Can anyone
recommend a good independent (no way can i afford main dealer prices)
subaru garage in the UK pref in the midlands.
Any and all of your thoughts on clutch replacement gratefully accepted.
Technically not terribly difficult, but parts are heavy. Coin-toss
which is easier; pulling engine or pulling tranny to access. Probably
easier to remove engine if working at home; tranny removal/install
will require a special support/jack (especially to get it back in
place)(unless you're really strong ;-). Also, performing the necessary
work lying on your back under the car isn't much fun.
Altho it looks like a lot, removal of the Soobie engine is pretty
straight-forward. Drain coolant, remove intake plastic, battery,
radiator, and hood. Drop Y pipe (no need to remove), undo motor mounts
and bell-housing hardware. Disconnect engine snubber, misc plumbing
and engine electricals. Dismount and set PS pump to one side, AC
compressor to other; sufficient slack in hoses to allow this w/o
problems. Connect chain between provided lifting point at rear, and AC
compressor bracket, and lift engine until the motor mounts clear the
cross member. Support the tranny with floor jack, or chunk of 2X4
between tranny and cross member, and separate engine from bell
housing. This sometimes requires a bit of careful pry bar action
around the locating pins. Lift engine free of car (A shop crane is
best, but any overhead lifting point can be made to work), service
clutch components (might also be a good time to put in a fresh rear
seal), and reinstall. Helps to have someone turn the tranny input
shaft (block one wheel, turn the other, with tranny in gear) to align
splines on input shaft to friction plate while you muscle the engine
into position. When things align correctly, engine/bell-housing should
mate at least as far as the locating pins (no more than ~1/4in gap
all around) with little effort. Bell-housing hardware will pull it the
rest of the way as you tighten them.
FWIW, my teenaged daughter put a fresh motor in her '92 Legacy while
she was home from school last summer. Dad helped, of course, but
mostly hung back, swilled beer, and pointed. Disparaging comments
about frail females got her past nearly all of the stubborn fasteners,
and a 3/8 air impact got the rest of 'em. Took her most of a weekend.
She commented that it was _way_ easier than the clutch job on her
first car; an old MR2.
Betcha. Builds character, too.
Hope this is helpful.
ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101
