clutch on 92 loyale

[ryan]

hi,

I own a 92 4x4 subaru loyale wagon at about 244,000 km
and the clutch seems to be starting to go. It's likely the original clutch.

symptoms:
1. difficult getting it into 1st when at a standstill
2. slight jerking or "dragging" when slowly coasting with clutch pedal
depressed.
3. very stiff pedal.

My first question is whether anyone could confirm that this
is actually a clutch problem.

Secondly, I am considering replacing the clutch with
my Dad over a 3 day weekend. We will probably rent
a torque wrench and maybe some type of engine hoist.
While we're at it we will try to replace some of the seeping/leaking
gaskets.

My question is: has anybody replaced a clutch themselves and
what types of unforseen problems came up?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Ryan

 

[Rick Courtright]

My question is: has anybody replaced a clutch themselves and
what types of unforseen problems came up?

Hi,

Did my '90 Loyale 4wd a little over a year ago. Pulled the gearbox--by
myself--and recommend you follow the advice I didn't: pull the engine
instead. Much easier to align everything when you reassemble it, plus
you can work on all the gasket and other issues (might as well do timing
belts and water pump while it's out if your budget allows) much easier
than in the car. Having a second person's a plus, but not mandatory.

I'd also suggest using Subie OEM parts when doing the clutch. A little
more expensive than aftermarket, but the quality level's a "known." Much
of the aftermarket stuff I've run across is "less than perfect," and
with a job that's as much fun as a clutch, you don't want to have to go
back in a second time.!

Best of luck!

Rick

 

[ryan]

Thanks for your help Rick,

I was wondering how long it took you.
My father and I were thinking we might
be able to do it over a three day weekend, but
we weren't sure. What do you think?

1. A day to take things apart and assess.
2. Purchase parts. (maybe have to order in advance)
3. Put back together

I'll look into Subie parts although that might
take longer and be a little more difficult to get on
short notice.

I'm a little worried that it might NOT be the clutch.
Do you think my symptoms (stiff clutch, dragging,
hard to get into first) might indicate something
else? The clutch is not slipping even slightly. I should
probably take it in to get an assessment.

Thanks for all your help and advice,

Ryan

 

[schema]

Check the clutch cable where it fastens to the pedal. As a form Subaru
technician I have replaced many of these on the older cars. The cable will
start to come apart and stretch for awhile, causing the symtoms you
describe, then it will snap, usually in a bad place far from home.

Check that out before you tear things apart. If it ain't slipping the disk
is okay.

Other things to look for are binding or bent fork.

 

[S]

Hi Ryan!

I own a 92 4x4 subaru loyale wagon at about 244,000 km
and the clutch seems to be starting to go.

Usually a worn-out clutch _slips_ in the taller gears (RPMs increase,
speedo doesn't), but clutch cable, pressure plate and/or release
bearing problems can cause the symptoms you describe.

I second what schema says; _do_ check the cable first. As in take it
out and inspect it; the typical damage is hard to see while standing
on your head in the dark of the drivers footwell. Might as well just
replace the darn thing at that point, 'cause it's _sure_ to fail the
next time you are far-from-home-in-the-cold-on-a-hot-date-whatever ;-)

If you are working in your driveway, pull the engine to get at the
clutch; as Rick suggests, it really is easier. If you have access to a
hoist and tranny jack, it might be easier to pull the transmission,
but probably not much. At the very least, you will want an overhead
lifting point (come-a-long on a tree limb?), but a shop crane/engine
hoist makes the job lots easier, and probably safer as well. Shop
cranes are generally pretty useful to have around, consider purchasing
an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight (~$100) as an alternative to
renting.

Once you're in there, replace _all_ of the clutch parts, including the
pilot bearing. It's possible to do the pilot bng. without removing the
flywheel, but it can be challenging. Once the flywheel is off, replace
the rear seal as well, and use thread lock/sealant on the flywheel
bolts when you re-install it. Most of the work is easily accomplished
by an individual mechanic, but an extra set of hands may prove helpful
when re-installing the engine. Have your helper slowly turn either the
crank, or a wheel (chock the opposite side) to aid in getting the
input shaft splines to mate to the clutch.

If you have all of the parts on hand, and don't run out of beer, you
can get everything done in a day. I generally allow two, to be on the
safe side. Don't hesitate to contact me directly if you feel the need;
be happy to talk you thru the procedure. Have fun.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[ryan]

hi everyone,

thanks for all your help.

I'll definately look at the cable when my wife comes
back with the car.

What makes me think it isn't the cable is that when I
shorten the cable - by adjusting the nut inside at the
"lever" - it still does it. The gears engage with the
pedal a little bit higher, but the dragging still occurs.

Doesn't this mean it has to be the pressure plate mechanism?

Anyway, I'll do a little more checking.

Thanks so much for everything, you guys have
been so helpful. I love usenet.

later,

ryan

 

[Ed Fortmiller]

And if you decide to replace the clutch I would strongly recommend using
genuine Subaru parts. I've heard stories of people using after market
clutch parts in Subarus and regretting it.

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
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