T
thomashow
Hi,
I think I have a leaking head gasket on my Legacy Outback 1996 (2.5L),
and I've decided to change it myself. I got the Haynes repair manual,
but a few things are not very clear and I was hoping to get some advice
from people on this list about the following points:
1. manual says that the procedure can be carried out without getting
the engine out, but that it is difficult. What is difficult about it?
The head bolts are easily accessible, but I'm a bit worried about how
long they are. If they were too long, I guess it would just be
impossible to take them out because they would bump against the side of
the engine compartment.
2. the manual says that the engine can be lifted by putting a jack
under the oil pan. Wouldn't one need to disconnect the engine from the
transaxle first? (The manual doesn't say anything about that).
3. do I need to remove the A/C compressor? The manual just says to
remove the compressor bracket, but I'm not sure the hoses are flexible
enough to get the compressor out of the way while removing the intake
manifold.
4. I will be changing the timing belt at the same time. I was wondering
why I should position the engine at TDC for cylinder 1? Can't I just
mark the position of camshaft sprockets, remove the old belt, put the
new one on, and make sure that sprockets are still in the same
position?
5. Incidentally, is cylinder 1 on the left or on the right while
looking at the engine? The diagrams in the Haynes book do not have a
legend to indicate how they are oriented.
6. I have been told by someone who carried out this procedure on a
really old Volvo engine that valves need to be adjusted whenever the
head gasket is changed. I presume that doesn't apply to me, and I don't
have to worry about valves at all. Is that correct?
Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide!
Tom
I think I have a leaking head gasket on my Legacy Outback 1996 (2.5L),
and I've decided to change it myself. I got the Haynes repair manual,
but a few things are not very clear and I was hoping to get some advice
from people on this list about the following points:
1. manual says that the procedure can be carried out without getting
the engine out, but that it is difficult. What is difficult about it?
The head bolts are easily accessible, but I'm a bit worried about how
long they are. If they were too long, I guess it would just be
impossible to take them out because they would bump against the side of
the engine compartment.
2. the manual says that the engine can be lifted by putting a jack
under the oil pan. Wouldn't one need to disconnect the engine from the
transaxle first? (The manual doesn't say anything about that).
3. do I need to remove the A/C compressor? The manual just says to
remove the compressor bracket, but I'm not sure the hoses are flexible
enough to get the compressor out of the way while removing the intake
manifold.
4. I will be changing the timing belt at the same time. I was wondering
why I should position the engine at TDC for cylinder 1? Can't I just
mark the position of camshaft sprockets, remove the old belt, put the
new one on, and make sure that sprockets are still in the same
position?
5. Incidentally, is cylinder 1 on the left or on the right while
looking at the engine? The diagrams in the Haynes book do not have a
legend to indicate how they are oriented.
6. I have been told by someone who carried out this procedure on a
really old Volvo engine that valves need to be adjusted whenever the
head gasket is changed. I presume that doesn't apply to me, and I don't
have to worry about valves at all. Is that correct?
Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide!
Tom