Can I do my own brakes?

[Todd H.]

Our 2003 Outback wagon needs a brake-job. New pads front and back.
I would like to do it myself but I have never done anything like that
before.
What kind of manual do I need?
Is it a smart thing to do in the first place?
I am not completely left handed and I do know some people I could call
for advice but they do not live close by.
Your thoughts please.

I don't fancy myself terribly mechanical and I do my own brakes. And
I feel like a manly man doing them. WHen I'm done I can't believe
what people pay to have that job done because it's pretty damned
easy.

Don't really need a manual--just find a person that's done brakes
before to hold your hand a little, and it's a snap. As for special
tools--a caliper compression tool, and maybe one of those one man
bleeder pumps or some such. Though to be honest, I've stayed away
with messing with that and just timed my pad job about the time when
the brake fluid changing needs to happen at the dealer anyway.

Search this forum at groups.google.com for posts on the subject. I
got some great advice here a long time ago.

Best Regards,

 

[kaasman]

Our 2003 Outback wagon needs a brake-job. New pads front and back.
I would like to do it myself but I have never done anything like that
before.
What kind of manual do I need?
Is it a smart thing to do in the first place?
I am not completely left handed and I do know some people I could call
for advice but they do not live close by.
Your thoughts please.

Peter

 

[Rick Courtright]

I am not completely left handed and I do know some people I could call
for advice but they do not live close by.

Hi,

I AM pretty close to being completely left-handed (and dyslexic, too!)
but brakes aren't that big a deal on most cars, assuming you're
replacing pads before there's other damage and you don't have to get the
rotors off to have 'em turned (opinions vary on turning rotors: some say
do it automatically, others go by overall condition of the rotors. I'm
of the latter school.) Get yourself a Haynes AND a Chilton's manual and
read thru 'em (you want both cuz each has strong and weak points, and
they complement each other somewhat.) I've gotten on good terms with my
dealer parts guy and he gives me tips if I ask about "what's gonna be
weird about this job?" You should be able to do okon your own, but, if
at any point in the job you feel you're over your head, give those
friends a call!

Best of luck,

Rick

 

[kaasman]

Hi,

I AM pretty close to being completely left-handed (and dyslexic, too!)
but brakes aren't that big a deal on most cars, assuming you're
replacing pads before there's other damage and you don't have to get the
rotors off to have 'em turned (opinions vary on turning rotors: some say
do it automatically, others go by overall condition of the rotors. I'm
of the latter school.) Get yourself a Haynes AND a Chilton's manual and
read thru 'em (you want both cuz each has strong and weak points, and
they complement each other somewhat.) I've gotten on good terms with my
dealer parts guy and he gives me tips if I ask about "what's gonna be
weird about this job?" You should be able to do okon your own, but, if
at any point in the job you feel you're over your head, give those
friends a call!

Best of luck,

Rick

Thanks for the support!
I looked up both Haynes and Chilton's books but they don't seem to
cover our 2003 Outback.
I would feel better if I had a manual, does anybody have suggestions?

Kaasman

 

[Tom Reingold]

Thanks for the support!
I looked up both Haynes and Chilton's books but they don't seem to
cover our 2003 Outback.
I would feel better if I had a manual, does anybody have suggestions?

Kaasman

I got a service manual for my Subaru on a CD from ebay. It is full of
PDF's. Printing them all would be expensive, but of course, I don't have
to print them all.

I paid about $20. Unfortunately, it seems that it's a bootleg copy. If
you're OK with that, check ebay.

Tom

 

[S]

Hi Peter!

Our 2003 Outback wagon needs a brake-job. New pads front and back.
I would like to do it myself but I have never done anything like that
before.

Brief procedure follows:

Assemble tools; jack, jackstands, 19mm socket or tire iron, 17mm
socket, socket extensions, ratchet, breaker-bar, large "C" clamp,
large needle-nose pliers, bailing wire, clean rags, spray "brake
cleaner", etc.
Jack car and place on jack stands.
Pull wheels.
Using 17mm socket and breaker bar, loosen two bolts holding caliper
assy to hub. (Bolts inserted from back side ((inner side)) of hub)
Remove caliper assy by lifting radially away from rotor. May require
some effort if rotors are worn/rusty; try rocking the caliper from
side to side to compress the piston a bit.
Inspect rotor. Pull for resurfacing if required (severe scoring,
etc.).
To pull, use two 8mm (?) screws in tapped holes to "jack" rotor off of
hub. (Normally not necessary, just grab it and pull.)
Note that the e-brake is a drum brake assy inside of the rear rotor.
If pulling the rear rotor, be careful not to dislodge the e-brake
shoes (e-brake _must_ be off; loosen adjuster if it seems tight).
Support caliper assy by wiring it to the spring while rotors are being
done.
Remove pads from assy, noting position of springs and such.
Use "C" clamp to compress piston into caliper. (Watch to be sure
reservoir doesn't overflow.)
Install new pads, and position springs as per original.
Install caliper over rotor, re-install bolts, and torque to 40-50ftlb.
Install wheel.
Apply brakes to close calipers onto rotor.
Check for proper fluid level.
Repeat for additional wheels.

I like to perform several hard braking cycles to seat the new pads.
Accelerate to ~30MPH, and apply brakes to just short of activating ABS
(wheel lockup). Repeat two or three times. Drive a couple minutes to
allow pads/rotors to cool, and do it again. Remember to check the
rearview before braking; you don't want to acquire a new
bumper-sticker ;-)
After seating pads, test installation by performing hard breaking
manoeuver with hands off wheel; should stop straight with minimal
steering pull. Severe pull probably means a mistake in re-assembly on
side opposite pull.

Hope this is helpful.

ByeBye! S.


Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Ed P]

Hi Peter!




Brief procedure follows:

Assemble tools; jack, jackstands, 19mm socket or tire iron, 17mm
socket, socket extensions, ratchet, breaker-bar, large "C" clamp,
large needle-nose pliers, bailing wire, clean rags, spray "brake
cleaner", etc.
Jack car and place on jack stands.
Pull wheels.
Using 17mm socket and breaker bar, loosen two bolts holding caliper
assy to hub. (Bolts inserted from back side ((inner side)) of hub)
Remove caliper assy by lifting radially away from rotor. May require
some effort if rotors are worn/rusty; try rocking the caliper from
side to side to compress the piston a bit.
Inspect rotor. Pull for resurfacing if required (severe scoring,
etc.).
To pull, use two 8mm (?) screws in tapped holes to "jack" rotor off of
hub. (Normally not necessary, just grab it and pull.)
Note that the e-brake is a drum brake assy inside of the rear rotor.
If pulling the rear rotor, be careful not to dislodge the e-brake
shoes (e-brake _must_ be off; loosen adjuster if it seems tight).
Support caliper assy by wiring it to the spring while rotors are being
done.
Remove pads from assy, noting position of springs and such.
Use "C" clamp to compress piston into caliper. (Watch to be sure
reservoir doesn't overflow.)
Install new pads, and position springs as per original.
Install caliper over rotor, re-install bolts, and torque to 40-50ftlb.
Install wheel.
Apply brakes to close calipers onto rotor.
Check for proper fluid level.
Repeat for additional wheels.

I like to perform several hard braking cycles to seat the new pads.
Accelerate to ~30MPH, and apply brakes to just short of activating ABS
(wheel lockup). Repeat two or three times. Drive a couple minutes to
allow pads/rotors to cool, and do it again. Remember to check the
rearview before braking; you don't want to acquire a new
bumper-sticker ;-)
After seating pads, test installation by performing hard breaking
manoeuver with hands off wheel; should stop straight with minimal
steering pull. Severe pull probably means a mistake in re-assembly on
side opposite pull.

Hope this is helpful.

ByeBye! S.


Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

Also, note that the sliding parts of the caliper and pad mountings can
corrode. They must be free to move as you apply and release the brakes
or your brakes may drag. Auto part stores should carry grease for
lubricating the calipers and mounting points. Clean and lube the
surfaces of calipers over which the pads slide. A wire brush is helpful
for surface rust. Clean or replace and lube mounting hardware.

On my '96 Legacy Outback, each caliper is mounted with 1 bolt and 1
guide pin. There are dust boots and bushings and the caliper must be
free to move back and forth over the bushings. And the pads must be
free to slide within the caliper as brakes are applied and then released.

Ed P

 

[kaasman]

Also, note that the sliding parts of the caliper and pad mountings can
corrode. They must be free to move as you apply and release the brakes
or your brakes may drag. Auto part stores should carry grease for
lubricating the calipers and mounting points. Clean and lube the
surfaces of calipers over which the pads slide. A wire brush is helpful
for surface rust. Clean or replace and lube mounting hardware.

On my '96 Legacy Outback, each caliper is mounted with 1 bolt and 1
guide pin. There are dust boots and bushings and the caliper must be
free to move back and forth over the bushings. And the pads must be
free to slide within the caliper as brakes are applied and then released.

Ed P

Thank you guys!
As soon as I can find time I am going to try it!

Peter

 

[Kurt C. Hack]

I agree on all parts, except I open up the bleeder when compressing the
piston to let all of the gunk out. Not catastrophic if you don't do it,
but it certainly doesn't hurt to bleed them on a pad change.

-Kurt

 

[Todd H.]

I agree on all parts, except I open up the bleeder when compressing
the piston to let all of the gunk out. Not catastrophic if you don't
do it, but it certainly doesn't hurt to bleed them on a pad change.

Kurt,

Is any special equipment here needed to make sure the system doesn't
get air in it? Or is it just a matter of closing the bleeder while
you still have pressure on the piston?

Best Regards,

 

[Kurt C. Hack]

I don't use anything fancy. I just use one of those cheap one-way
valves from the parts store and close off the bleader while applying
pressure just to be sure. It helps to have someone to assist either
applying pressure or closing the valve as it takes a third hand sometimes.

-Kurt