Because I am a hypochondriac...

R

Rebecca B.

....please tell me if there is something wrong with my car.

So today was a pretty cold winter day in Wisconsin, approximately 10
below, and my 2000 Legacy sat in the parking lot at school from 8:30
until 3:30. When I started it sputtered a little and then raced and
made a high pitched whirring noise, the RPMs were also higher than
normal, this continued for the first 10 or so minutes I was driving my
car. Is this a sign that something could be wrong with it or the car
just whining at me for leaving it out in the cold?
 
Rebecca B. said:
...please tell me if there is something wrong with my car.

So today was a pretty cold winter day in Wisconsin, approximately 10
below, and my 2000 Legacy sat in the parking lot at school from 8:30
until 3:30. When I started it sputtered a little and then raced and
made a high pitched whirring noise, the RPMs were also higher than
normal, this continued for the first 10 or so minutes I was driving my
car. Is this a sign that something could be wrong with it or the car
just whining at me for leaving it out in the cold?

A true "whine" noise (sorta like a hydrolic elevator sound) is probably the
alternator/serpentine belt. Mine does that too. Last year, it got worse
and worse until my alternator died. With the new one, it didn't make the
noise. The noise is back however, though I can't imagine the alternator is
bad already. I am assuming it's just lube/wear on one of the pully-type
parts and isn't siginificant. So probably don't worry about it. But if you
get a light or any electrical oddness I would take it in. (So you don't get
stuck in cold weather like I did!)

RPMs will be higher than normal because your car won't shift in the same
places because the fluid in the transmission is cold and gooey and not as
oily as it should be. That makes the valves and springs that run the thing
think you are "pushing" harder and keeps it in a lower gear. You shouldnt
hop in and go racing off in weather that cold. Let it warm a minute or two
before moving, and drive several blocks slowly before trying highway speeds
to give the fluids a chance to warm up to do their jobs. So I'd call that
normal for 20 degrees or lower.
 
It really does sound like belt slipping. I believe your engine has two
standard belts rather than a serpentine belt. You should check that
the belts have the proper tension-it's in the owners manual. If the
belts are glazed up or worn then replace them.
 
Rebecca B. said:
the car just whining at me for leaving it out in the cold?

Hi,

Nah, it's not just whining, it's flat out b____ing at you! :D

See Ed's note on belt tension for the "whirring" noise. Also, I'd heed
the notes about letting the car warm up. Out here in SoCal, we seldom
see freezing, but even at that temp, I can notice a HUGE difference in
how my cars react until they warm up, so I can only imagine dropping
another 40 deg F! My few hard core skier friends suggest staying in the
parking lot w/ heater on "full" and not moving until you start feeling
some heat... and then go easy until everything's working right.

Rick
 
another 40 deg F! My few hard core skier friends suggest staying in the
parking lot w/ heater on "full" and not moving until you start feeling
some heat... and then go easy until everything's working right.

She'll warm up quicker if you leave the heater
OFF and set to "blue".
 
CompUser said:
She'll warm up quicker if you leave the heater
OFF and set to "blue".

Not really... Subaru's heating system is constant flow. There is no
valve to shut off waterflow thru the heater core. Temperature is
controlled by changing the *airflow* thru the heater core, not the
water. There might be a few seconds difference in time. Also, the heat
doesn't have to be a Santa Ana wind type hot, just noticeable.

As for the warmup time (to feel the heat coming out), Soobs do warm up
quite quickly. At 25F, I've got comfortable heat in about 2.5 minutes.
 
Why the "blue" setting?

I understand the "Off" part.

If Sub's flow the same rate thru the core, as
posted by somebody (nobody, lol), then putting
the temp selector on "blue" won't make much
difference (but it won't slow it down either).
Some vehicles modulate coolant flow thru heater
core by that control setting, and cutting off the
flow will help the engine reach operating temps
quicker.

The concept is to not drain off the warmth being
generated by frittering it away in the heater
core. It's probably not a huge difference, a
matter of minutes at most, before you'll get hot
air from the heater...and probably more
noticeable the colder it is, longer the engine
has had to cool to ambient temp, yadda yadda.
 
CompUser said:
The concept is to not drain off the warmth being
generated by frittering it away in the heater
core.

Hi,

Yes, the Subie system is constant flow, so there's no difference whether
the heater's on or off. Some cars have even had a "reduction" system in
that when the heater valve's opened (actually regulating coolant flow
thru the heater core as you described for "most" systems over the
years), the flow back to the radiator is actually reduced. IMO, this is
bad engineering, and the cars I knew of that used this system suffered
overheating problems at times w/ the heater on at. I hope the engineers
don't design anything w/ this type of system today.

But all that's unimportant... as is the worry of "frittering away" some
of the heat. The actual point of the drill is NOT to wait to get a LOT
of heat, but to be able to "notice" when the engine's starting to warm a
bit, with oil flowing properly, temp sensors starting to do their jobs,
all that kind of thing, before taking off and putting a strain on it.
Kinda like a runner getting out of bed in the morning: he doesn't take
off running right away, but moves about and maybe stretches a little
first... I don't know about you guys, but I'm a bit cranky and stiff on
cold mornings, and my cars seem to mirror my behavior!

Rick
 

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