avoiding power windows

[alancorey]

How far back do I have to go to avoid power windows? I'm looking for something small with good gas mileage, like maybe a Legacy, but I will not tolerate power windows, power door locks, or an automatic transmission. I would like air conditioning.

I know all the power stuff is standard now, but when was it last optional?

Thanks,

Alan Corey

 

[Tom Reingold]

How far back do I have to go to avoid power windows? I'm looking for
something small with good gas mileage, like maybe a Legacy, but I will
not tolerate power windows, power door locks, or an automatic
transmission. I would like air conditioning.

I know all the power stuff is standard now, but when was it last optional?

Thanks,

Alan Corey

Interesting question! I don't know the answer. It might be possible to
refit an automatic window with a crank. I would do the driver's window
and leave the others motorized. That's because you raise and lower the
driver's window much more often than the others. At least I do.
Therefore, the others are less likely to break down. And you'll enjoy
the convenience of "remote control."

When you say good gas mileage, what is good for you? My 2000 Legacy L
wagon gets only about 23.7 mpg (in the US). I guess that's excellent
compared with an SUV, but it's not so great compared with other cars its
size.

Tom

 

[Tom Reingold]

Oh, you might find an answer by looking through reviews at
http://www.edmunds.com. I think they archive all of their reviews
through the years.

Tom

 

[Hal Whelply]

I haven't had manual crank windows since 1993, not by choice but simply by
virtue of how the cars came equipped. Haven't missed the old hand cranks one
bit. And there have been no power window problems of any kind, even on the
Volvo. They just work. I'm working hard here to figure out why I'd want
hand-crankers again, unless the argument is being able to open a window
under water in some emergency situation. Then again, if the car had been
damaged on the side, even hand-crankers may not work.

 

[Tom Reingold]

I haven't had manual crank windows since 1993, not by choice but simply by
virtue of how the cars came equipped. Haven't missed the old hand cranks one
bit. And there have been no power window problems of any kind, even on the
Volvo. They just work. I'm working hard here to figure out why I'd want
hand-crankers again, unless the argument is being able to open a window
under water in some emergency situation. Then again, if the car had been
damaged on the side, even hand-crankers may not work.

In my experience, which is admittedly small, all of my cars with power
windows had motors weaken or die on me. Repairs are usually around $400
each.

This is my first Subaru. Maybe I'll have better luck.

 

[Tom Reingold]

alancorey wrote:

Well, um, I wouldn't consider 23.7 to be very good. I'm driving a 95
Ford Escort (5 speed) now and that gets consistently 30+ around town and
I once got 38 on a trip. I suppose there's a price to be paid for AWD
in mechanical complexity which consumes energy. The Toyota Echo with 51
MPG sounds great. I drive 80 miles a day commuting to work. Gas isn't
getting cheaper, and neither my job or my land is going to move. Maybe
it's time to get a motorcycle again.

Before I'd try to put a crank on a motorized window I'd probably rewire
it on the hot side of the ignition switch so it wasn't necessary to have
the ignition on to open the windows. I couldn't really consider that a
security risk. If you're already inside, where's the harm in opening a
window?
I'm not sure either about your idea of the less used rear windows being
less likely to break down. They could rust up faster. I can't unlock
either of the rear doors on my Escort anymore, mostly because I don't
use the back seat much.

Alan

Did you mean to send to me privately or to the group? You did the former.

Yeah, I'm disappointed with the mileage. Yes, that's the price for all
time AWD.

Good point about disuse. Not sure which is worse, overuse or disuse.

Tom

 

[Rick Courtright]

bit. And there have been no power window problems of any kind, even on the
Volvo. They just work. I'm working hard here to figure out why I'd want

Hi,

I'd consider you've been lucky. Most everybody I've known w/ power
windows has had at least one break down if they've kept the vehicle any
time--yes, I probably know a lot of cheapskates, cuz 10 yrs is quite
common among most of my friends. Repairs are expensive, and often
difficult or impossible to do at home. So far, on my Camry, approx $500
has been spent on keeping the windows going up and down, and the rears
haven't "done their thing" yet. Considering the design, I expect they
will, though.

OTOH (knocking on wood), I've NEVER had a manual mechanism give up, and
when someone vandalized one car and broke out the driver's window, it
was easy to fix myself. Personally, I'd rather have dropped that $500
into the gas tank of my wind-up windowed Subie and gone somewhere...

Rick

 

[Sparky Polastri]

I haven't had manual crank windows since 1993, not by choice but simply by
virtue of how the cars came equipped. Haven't missed the old hand cranks
one bit. And there have been no power window problems of any kind, even on
the Volvo. They just work. I'm working hard here to figure out why I'd want
hand-crankers again, unless the argument is being able to open a window
under water in some emergency situation.

I saw on TV once (Discovery or something like that about "rescues") that
quite often the window lowering circuit and motor will run even if the car
has been completely filled with water.

If getting out of the car is the concern, taking sime duct tape and securing
a window punch in the door pocket would work as a substitute. It also
serves for getting OTHER car windows open fast if need be.

(A window punch is a nob on a metal stick with a pointy end. A firm push
compresses a spring and releases it so a firm snap of force hits the punch.
Its like hitting the window with a metal hammer. It won't work on a
windscreen or back window, but can shatter safety glass in or out of water.
A hammer might not be swing-able under water. Any hardware store should
have one for less than $10)

 

[JohnO]

(A window punch is a nob on a metal stick with a pointy end. A firm push

compresses a spring and releases it so a firm snap of force hits the
punch.

aka spring-loaded center punch.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91080

-John O

 

[JohnO]

....then I found this:

http://www.detnews.com/2005/autosconsumer/0503/30/G03-133161.htm

-John O

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

I saw on TV once (Discovery or something like that about "rescues") that
quite often the window lowering circuit and motor will run even if the
car has been completely filled with water.

If getting out of the car is the concern, taking sime duct tape and
securing a window punch in the door pocket would work as a substitute.
It also serves for getting OTHER car windows open fast if need be.

(A window punch is a nob on a metal stick with a pointy end. A firm
push compresses a spring and releases it so a firm snap of force hits
the punch. Its like hitting the window with a metal hammer. It won't
work on a windscreen or back window, but can shatter safety glass in or
out of water. A hammer might not be swing-able under water. Any
hardware store should have one for less than $10)

Finally if you have power windows and now way to break the glass there is
another option.

Here's how: Sitting and waiting as your car fills with water and sinks will
be terrifying, but if the door is your only way out, you don't have any
other choice. The door will only open when it's covered with water both
inside and out and the pressure on both sides is equal. And there are a few
other things to keep in mind: There's a good chance your car may flip
upside-down as it sinks, so keep hold of something—the steering wheel, a
door handle—so you can orient yourself when the car settles.

 

[lkreh]

Why? IMHO, in order to avoid a very slight chance of a power window
problem, you're going to have to get such an old car that all kinds of
other things will be falling apart. At least with the Outback, power
window failure is pretty rare. There's a guy who runs a 96 OBW website
with 180K on his one-owner car. He's cleaned the contacts on his power
windows a couple of times, but otherwise has had 180K of trouble-free
up and down.

 

[Guy Macon]

In my experience, which is admittedly small, all of my cars with power
windows had motors weaken or die on me. Repairs are usually around $400
each.

My 1985 Subaru has never needed a power window repair. Then again,
at 20 years and 200,000 miles it's just starting to get broken in.

 

[Paul Knudsen]

How far back do I have to go to avoid power windows? I'm looking for something small with good gas mileage, like maybe a Legacy, but I will not tolerate power windows, power door locks, or an automatic transmission. I would like air conditioning.

I know all the power stuff is standard now, but when was it last optional?

Thanks,

Alan Corey

My other car is a '95 Geo. No power anything. I'll consider an
offer!