AC inverter in dash

[fishkill]

Greetings,

I am taking delivery of my 3rd Subie, a superbly maintained 98 Outback ltd
wagon (130kmiles) tomorrow and will likely be replacing the stereo/cd player
soon (big city so I need a removable).

When I performed this surgery on my 93 impreza hatchback I found I was left
with a redundant and undesired CD player taking up an otherwise useful 1 DIN
slot in the console. I had the idea many years ago that this would be a
great spot for a DC inverter to provide 1 or 2 110v AC outlets but was
stymied by the size of the inverters at the time. On a semi-recent business
trip i found myself driving a Toyota Matrix, I hated the car as it felt like
i was driving around a very plastic and underpowered toy, but lo and behold
there were AC outlets in the dash taking up approx 1 DIN.

Has anyone else tried this (successfully or not)? And if so how was it
achieved?

Thanks in advance,

-Fish

 

[Stoneman]

Greetings,

I am taking delivery of my 3rd Subie, a superbly maintained 98 Outback ltd
wagon (130kmiles) tomorrow and will likely be replacing the stereo/cd player
soon (big city so I need a removable).

When I performed this surgery on my 93 impreza hatchback I found I was left
with a redundant and undesired CD player taking up an otherwise useful 1 DIN
slot in the console. I had the idea many years ago that this would be a
great spot for a DC inverter to provide 1 or 2 110v AC outlets but was
stymied by the size of the inverters at the time. On a semi-recent business
trip i found myself driving a Toyota Matrix, I hated the car as it felt like
i was driving around a very plastic and underpowered toy, but lo and behold
there were AC outlets in the dash taking up approx 1 DIN.

Has anyone else tried this (successfully or not)? And if so how was it
achieved?

Thanks in advance,

-Fish

While it may be possible to do this (stuff a DC to AC converter in a
tight spot), I would be careful. First I would ensure there is
adequate ventilation wherever you plan on installing this electronic
device. Second, double-fuse the unit: Once before the 12vdc and also
at the 115 VAC output. The AC generated by these units are very
"rough" and are almost like square waves. It is not suggested you run
a laptop from these types of devices. If you have the proper space,
make the connectors so that you can easily separate them (like a
computer hard drive power connector, for example). I would also make a
switch so you can switch the unit on or off when needed. What would be
very cool is if you could put a A/C voltmeter in the dash too, so you
know how much power you have, and maybe even an ammeter?

Good luck.

Stoneman

http://www.stonemanautoreview.com

 

[Porgy Tirebiter]

It is not suggested you run

a laptop from these types of devices. If you have the proper space,
make the connectors so that you can easily separate them (like a
computer hard drive power connector, for example). I would also make a
switch so you can switch the unit on or off when needed. What would be
very cool is if you could put a A/C voltmeter in the dash too, so you
know how much power you have, and maybe even an ammeter?

Good luck.

Stoneman

Where do you get this information????

Yes..some of the "Invertors" do make a MODIFIED SINE WAVE, not a square
wave......
Laptops run fine off of this, since the power supply is a SWITCHER. They
dont care, since they rectify/filter it into high voltage DC then chop it at
a high frequency....Your dead wrong on the laptop issue...do some research.
AC/DC universal motors (one with a commutator and brushes) like you find in
a drill motor will run fine on this...
SYNCHRO and SHADEDPOLE motors DO NOT like modified sine wave and will
overheat.

 

[David]

Greetings,

I am taking delivery of my 3rd Subie, a superbly maintained 98 Outback ltd
wagon (130kmiles) tomorrow and will likely be replacing the stereo/cd player
soon (big city so I need a removable).

When I performed this surgery on my 93 impreza hatchback I found I was left
with a redundant and undesired CD player taking up an otherwise useful 1 DIN
slot in the console. I had the idea many years ago that this would be a
great spot for a DC inverter to provide 1 or 2 110v AC outlets but was
stymied by the size of the inverters at the time. On a semi-recent business
trip i found myself driving a Toyota Matrix, I hated the car as it felt like
i was driving around a very plastic and underpowered toy, but lo and behold
there were AC outlets in the dash taking up approx 1 DIN.

Has anyone else tried this (successfully or not)? And if so how was it
achieved?

Thanks in advance,

-Fish

Why?

 

[Stoneman]

It is not suggested you run> a laptop from these types of devices. If you have the proper space,



Where do you get this information????

Yes..some of the "Invertors" do make a MODIFIED SINE WAVE, not a square
wave......
Laptops run fine off of this, since the power supply is a SWITCHER. They
dont care, since they rectify/filter it into high voltage DC then chop it at
a high frequency....Your dead wrong on the laptop issue...do some research.
AC/DC universal motors (one with a commutator and brushes) like you find in
a drill motor will run fine on this...
SYNCHRO and SHADEDPOLE motors DO NOT like modified sine wave and will
overheat.

It's a fact. Most cheap DC-AC inverters do make either rough square,
triangle, or extremely choppy square waves. Only the more expensive
ones will product a perfect sine wave like those you see from
household or Use an oscilloscope if you don't believe me. While switch-
mode supplies are more resistant to these cheap AC sources, some
electronic devices are sensitive to them.

 

[fishkill]

Why?

David:
After seeing it in the toyota it seemed like a very practical mod. I can see
using it for gameboy/nintendo/psp recharging, cell phone/BT headset
chargers of passengers who didnt bring a dc adapter. etc.


Stoneman and Porgie
I appreciate your heated discussion regarding the wave and cleanliness of
the power, but i have a DC powersupply for my laptop so it is not really an
issue I do firmly agree with the ventilation and doublefusing however and
pending a "site survey" of the vehicle (delivery was delayed by the ice
storm) I will certainly assess the viability of the project.


Thanks all for your input

-Fish

 

[Bonehenge (B A R R Y)]

David:
After seeing it in the toyota it seemed like a very practical mod.

My Tacoma's got one, as well.

Some details that might be helpful:

On the Tacoma the outlet is in the bed, just ahead of the right tail
light. The inverter itself is actually located in the center console,
under a false floor in the console "junk box". The Matrix probably
doesn't have the inverter right behind the outlet, either.

Both the Tacoma and a friend's Matrix use a dash switch to energize
the inverter, but the output is limited depending upon engine RPM. In
the truck, you can only get the full output at idle, with a lower
output at highway speeds.

As to why? I've used mine to run an airplane engine block preheater,
cordless power tool battery chargers, camp lights, portable AA &
device chargers in campgrounds, AC powered radios, flood lights
lights, computer speakers with my XM radio outside the truck, and of
course, the ever important BLENDER! <G>

 

[Jim Stewart]

Bonehenge (B A R R Y) wrote:

As to why? I've used mine to run an airplane engine block preheater,
cordless power tool battery chargers, camp lights, portable AA &
device chargers in campgrounds, AC powered radios, flood lights
lights, computer speakers with my XM radio outside the truck, and of
course, the ever important BLENDER! <G>

You don't have one of these?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200325249_200325249

 

[fishkill]

My Tacoma's got one, as well.

Some details that might be helpful:

On the Tacoma the outlet is in the bed, just ahead of the right tail
light. The inverter itself is actually located in the center console,
under a false floor in the console "junk box". The Matrix probably
doesn't have the inverter right behind the outlet, either.

Both the Tacoma and a friend's Matrix use a dash switch to energize
the inverter, but the output is limited depending upon engine RPM. In
the truck, you can only get the full output at idle, with a lower
output at highway speeds.

As to why? I've used mine to run an airplane engine block preheater,
cordless power tool battery chargers, camp lights, portable AA &
device chargers in campgrounds, AC powered radios, flood lights
lights, computer speakers with my XM radio outside the truck, and of
course, the ever important BLENDER! <G>

great info ! thanks for the tip regarding the remote inverter. Maybe the
false bottom is the way to go, and who knows ... maybe run an outlet to the
back of the wagon as well

 

[Bonehenge (B A R R Y)]

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200325249_200325249

Cool!