95 Legacy Oil Leak

S

SKCS, USN

Hello

I have a 1995 Legacy L Wagon with 120K on it, and, I started smelling oil
burning earlier this week. Nothing noticible from the top of the engine,
but, when I crawled underneath, I appear to have a leak on the front, bottom
of the engine---just in front of the oil pan. The head gasket on the top of
the engine is fine....in fact, there are no noticible oil leaks from the top
of the engine. What gasket is at the bottom front of the engine?? And, is
it pricey to replace??

I have no idea how long this has been leaking, since I just recently started
smelling the oil burning. I have no "oil spots" when I park the car. And,
my oil was just a little bit low.

Any idea on what gasket is leaking and replacement options?

Also----maybe it's just my luck, but, I've never had to put any money into
my Legacy (except routine maintenance), but, recently, along with this oil
leak, I have a laundry list of items that need to be repaired/replaced:
front brakes/rotors, rear struts, the solenoid on the starter is bad--so, I
need to replace the starter, the heat shield on the exhaust manifold is
rattling at idle, and my tires are worn. I guess once I had all this up,
it's not that bad...compared to the reliability of the car-----it's just
funny how all of this kinda happened at the same time.

Appreciate any help.....Thank you.....John
 
The leak is most likely from the front crank seal. If you've never had the
timing belts changed, this wuld be a perfect time to do it, along with the
water pump since it need to be removed for the job anyway. Should be about
$350 here in the northeast US.

The other stuff is really related to the age of the car, just bad timing I
guess. I mean, brakes and tires wear out as do struts and the heat shield
is common for that age.

I speak from experience with a 95 LS wagon : )
 
Sounds like the front crankshaft oil seal and/or the oil pump is leaking. Oil
is being blown back as you drive, dripping on to the hot exhaust, which you
notice when you stop. It will get progressively worse, so you should get it
fixed.
While they're in there changing the crankshaft seal & resealing the oil pump
you should have them change the camshaft oil seals, change the timing belt &
maybe consider having the water pump changed as well. This will keep labor
costs for these jobs to a minimum.

Other stuff you list is standard wear & tear. You can do most of this
yourself, except probably the struts.

Chris
 
Chris and John

Thanks so much for the great info. And, I figured that it was just "bad
timing" that everything else seemed to go at about the same time.....you are
correct---there is nothing I can do about normal "wear-n-tear"....it's just
they all went at the same time (or thereabout). I'm looking at doing most
of it myself----however, the CRANK SEAL, TIMING BELT and WATER
PUMP.....should I only let a Subaru Dealer repair it----or, can my local
Navy Exchange Auto Repair Shop take care of the job?? The Navy Exchange
has very good mechanics...and, labor is only $54/hour.

Appreciate your advice.

John
 
SKCS said:
Hello

I have a 1995 Legacy L Wagon with 120K on it, and, I started smelling oil
burning earlier this week. Nothing noticible from the top of the engine,
but, when I crawled underneath, I appear to have a leak on the front, bottom
of the engine---just in front of the oil pan. The head gasket on the top of
the engine is fine....in fact, there are no noticible oil leaks from the top
of the engine. What gasket is at the bottom front of the engine?? And, is
it pricey to replace??

I have no idea how long this has been leaking, since I just recently started
smelling the oil burning. I have no "oil spots" when I park the car. And,
my oil was just a little bit low.

Any idea on what gasket is leaking and replacement options?

I went in to get my oil changed just recently on my car, and they wouldn't
change it because the oil pan was so rusted through the oil was leaching
right through it, and the tech said if he tried to pull the drain plug the
pan would buckle.
Tonyrama
'95 Legacy L Wagon
 
Chris and John

Thanks so much for the great info. And, I figured that it was just "bad
timing" that everything else seemed to go at about the same time.....you are
correct---there is nothing I can do about normal "wear-n-tear"....it's just
they all went at the same time (or thereabout). I'm looking at doing most
of it myself----however, the CRANK SEAL, TIMING BELT and WATER
PUMP.....should I only let a Subaru Dealer repair it----or, can my local
Navy Exchange Auto Repair Shop take care of the job?? The Navy Exchange
has very good mechanics...and, labor is only $54/hour.

I'm not Chris or John, but I can give you my
advice on this stuff. The job is not particularly
difficult for a mechanic with all the tools he
needs. I did it myself. It does require a fair
amount of attention to detail and care. If you
know a mechanic that you trust and has done it
before, go for it.
 
Tony

I was snooping around underneath the car, and, the oil pan appears to be in
good shape.

In fact, even though I spent 2 years in Maine with my Legacy, I have very
little rust underneath. I have rust issues with the rear hatch, and the
handle and support arms....those are rusted bad.

After talking with Chris and John....and cleaning the underside of all the
oil.....it defenitely appears to be the crank seal.

How many miles do you have on your Legacy?? Also, any issues with your
starter?? My solenoid is bad (takes a few clicks of the key to get her to
turn over)....so, I have to replace the whole starter.

John
 
Thanks Jim.....appreciate the advice.

With the lower labor rate at the Navy Exchange, I will probably go with
them.

John
 
Hi John,

I live in Colorado and I was quoted $750 just to change the belts and water
pump. Was I talking to the wrong people? I can't imagine there being that
much of a difference in cost from halfway across the country. Actually, I
would think our prices would be lower since the cost of living here is
lower. I know that prices for real estate in the northeast are almost double
what they are here.

--
Richard Sobe
The leak is most likely from the front crank seal. If you've never had the
timing belts changed, this wuld be a perfect time to do it, along with the
water pump since it need to be removed for the job anyway. Should be about
$350 here in the northeast US.

The other stuff is really related to the age of the car, just bad timing I
guess. I mean, brakes and tires wear out as do struts and the heat shield
is common for that age.

I speak from experience with a 95 LS wagon : )
 
John,

Where did you get your timing belt, front crank seal & water pump
replaced for $350? I'll drive there right now! (I'm in Brewster NY,
about 1 hr northeast of NYC).

Robert
 
Tony

I was snooping around underneath the car, and, the oil pan appears to be in
good shape.

In fact, even though I spent 2 years in Maine with my Legacy, I have very
little rust underneath. I have rust issues with the rear hatch, and the
handle and support arms....those are rusted bad.

After talking with Chris and John....and cleaning the underside of all the
oil.....it defenitely appears to be the crank seal.

How many miles do you have on your Legacy?? Also, any issues with your
starter?? My solenoid is bad (takes a few clicks of the key to get her to
turn over)....so, I have to replace the whole starter.

John
I you're a DIYselfer, the starter's solenoid only needs new contacts
that you can get cheap at any starters rebuilder. Make a search on
Google or at this adress (down for the moment but should be back
soon)and you will find lots of info on how to do it.
http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=3
 
SKCS said:
Tony

I was snooping around underneath the car, and, the oil pan appears to be in
good shape.

In fact, even though I spent 2 years in Maine with my Legacy, I have very
little rust underneath. I have rust issues with the rear hatch, and the
handle and support arms....those are rusted bad.

After talking with Chris and John....and cleaning the underside of all the
oil.....it defenitely appears to be the crank seal.

How many miles do you have on your Legacy?? Also, any issues with your
starter?? My solenoid is bad (takes a few clicks of the key to get her to
turn over)....so, I have to replace the whole starter.

John

I don't know why but I've never seen a Subaru that wasn't rusted out in the
rear hatch handle. My car has been in Maine for at least the last three
years, and has very little, if any, body rust. It has just over 137,000
miles and still runs like new. I've done nothing (till now) to it besides
tires and oil. My cam seals were gone too, so they replaced those at the
same time as the oil pan, did the timing belt while they were in there too.
I figure I've got a good two or three years before the rust becomes a
problem, and I expect the engine will far outlive the body, as it has on my
two previous Subies.
Tonyrama
'95 Outback
 
Richard,

My quote was admittedly two years old but I just checked the receipt and it
was $263. This was also by and independent ACE Certified mechanic, not the
dealer and did not have the water pump replaced at that time(I later did
because of another leak and it was $130).
I still think $750 is way too much. Its a 4-hour job and the parts, other
than the water pump, are relatively cheap.
 
That plus resealing the oil pump and new cam seals would be $350 here in MT
at JRs repair. Or I do it myself for $150-$200. TG
 
I think the New York City area in particular is just the most expensive
place to have car work done. I don't know if anyone has actually
compiled any statistics on this, but it's certainly my impression based
on living here most of my life. OK, I can't say I've compared prices to
other areas but I am always amazed at what it costs for even minor
repairs here. Forget about anything MORE than minor: I had a
distributor go out on a Mazda 626; that cost me $800. The freaking CAP
was $50!!

I would be very surprised to get a timing belt done for less than $1000
near where I live.

We visit relatives in Maine every summer and I'm probably going to wait
until then to get the belt done, even though I'm at 62K now. I'll take
the chance to save a few hundred bucks. Anyone ever have a belt go at
right around 60K?
 
I think the New York City area in particular is just the most expensive
place to have car work done. I don't know if anyone has actually
compiled any statistics on this

I'm sure somehow AAA has the answer.

Oh great, now I'm gonna have to look this up.
 
Tony

Did you do anything about your rusty rear hatch handle?? Mine still works,
but, is badly rusted. As I said, I have absolutely no rust on the
underside....and, I'm in Norfolk VA now....so, maybe the change of weather
will prevent further rust.

Do you think replacing the rear struts would be something me and my buddies
could change out??

John
 
SKCS said:
Tony

Did you do anything about your rusty rear hatch handle?? Mine still works,
but, is badly rusted. As I said, I have absolutely no rust on the
underside....and, I'm in Norfolk VA now....so, maybe the change of weather
will prevent further rust.

It sticks from time to time, and when it does I put WD-40 on it, carefully,
to avoid spraying the paint. I don't know what else you'd do for it besides
replacing it. Of all the things that could rust on it, that is relatively
minor. Besides, like I said before, I've nver seen one that wasn't rusted,
so the chances of finding a used one in a junk yard that wasn't rusty would
be slim to none, and I'd imagin it would be expensive to buy from the
dealer.
Do you think replacing the rear struts would be something me and my buddies
could change out??

Depends on your mechanical aptitude, of course, but I imagine I could've
done it if I had a space to do it, and the tools, of which I have neither.
I'm still undecided if I'll replace the suspension on my Miata myself, but
in the end I'll probably elect to have it done, 'cause I'd rather know it
was done by someone who knew what they were doing.
Tonyrama
'95 Outback
 

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