'02 WRX Wagon: Removing doors to access speakers

[BD]

Hi, all.

I have a reasonably potent stereo in my WRX, and am noticing some
resonance in the doors and the dash at certain bass frequencies from
the speakers. The speakers are after-market. I'm pretty sure they're
not blown, and it's just a question of some bits of plastic 'buzzing'
when the tone hits the right spot.

I want to pull the door panels off, see what's rattling, and secure
it.

I went looking for instructions on removing the inner door panels, and
did find a post from awhile back (quoted below).

The point about removing the window control modules is not clear. Is
this suggesting pulling the toggles off the panel?

I wonder if someone could help to clarify the process here... I don't
want to pull on the wrong thing and break a clip somewhere.

Thanks!

BD


***********
The front doors were very easy:-
- Remove electric window control modules, they pretty much just
unclip
from the front side first, then unplug the electrical connector .
Then
you will see a philips head screw holding the trim to the door.
- Remove the screw that you can see in the door handle (the bit you
open the door with) and remove that little plastic casing.
- From memory there were also another 1 or 2 screws hiding behind
plastic lugs in the arm rest.
After having done all that, if you gently pull the trim away from the
door, starting at the bottom of the door first, you will see where
the
plastic plugs are so you can sort of put your fingers close to them
when you pull the trim off.
The trim will pop off pretty easily, I think there are about 6 or so
plastic plugs.
When the trim is completely free, lift it un an upward direction and
it will slide out of the gap between the window and the inner side of
the door.
************

 

[isquat]

Hi, all.

I have a reasonably potent stereo in my WRX, and am noticing some
resonance in the doors and the dash at certain bass frequencies from
the speakers. The speakers are after-market. I'm pretty sure they're
not blown, and it's just a question of some bits of plastic 'buzzing'
when the tone hits the right spot.

I want to pull the door panels off, see what's rattling, and secure
it.

With prodigious amount of sound deaddener I hope.
RAAMmat is cost effective. I highly recommend to install
that in all 4 doors and possibly in the trunk.
Treat both the metal AND the plastic inner panel.
Treat the speaker shelf too if you have a sedan.

I went looking for instructions on removing the inner door panels, and
did find a post from awhile back (quoted below).

The point about removing the window control modules is not clear. Is
this suggesting pulling the toggles off the panel?

I wonder if someone could help to clarify the process here... I don't
want to pull on the wrong thing and break a clip somewhere.

I think with the clips you just have to be careful and
push them with a very thin screwdriver.
Other than that I recommend to get the subaru repair manual
for the body.

 

[Blair Baucom]

Look here:

http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/ixS...ord=&keyword=&publication_type=12&free_pub=13

Find one for speaker upgrade kit. Most years and models look almost the
same. The images here should clarify the instructions.

Blair

 

[isquat]

And here is the site:
http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

one roll should be enough for 4 doors. I recommend to treat the front
ones first. if you plan to install closed cell foam on top
of the butyl based mat make sure to order a spray can of
adhesive. As a personal plug I liked dealing with Rick
before he put the uber system/shipping fee calculator for online
ordering. The closed cell mat can be had from second skin
(but I haven't seen any adhesive in spray cans on their site)

this
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
should be of some help too.

 

[bgd]

paint the insides of doors while you are at it. .... any primer, any color.
Metal buzzes like... metal. This is common to every car I have owned with
door speakers. that dang sheet metal cars are made out of do not like
anything beyond thier specs. Bass frequencies are like inline fours with no
exhaust- you can feel it running on the metal of other cars, and never get
in trouble with laws that do not exist apparently.That buzzing noise may be
deserved in your own car, if it is primally bellowing for 3 blocks outside
of it.

 

[isquat]

paint the insides of doors while you are at it. .... any primer, any color.
Metal buzzes like... metal. This is common to every car I have owned with
door speakers. that dang sheet metal cars are made out of do not like
anything beyond thier specs. Bass frequencies are like inline fours with no
exhaust- you can feel it running on the metal of other cars, and never get
in trouble with laws that do not exist apparently.That buzzing noise may be
deserved in your own car, if it is primally bellowing for 3 blocks outside
of it.

I don't get it. The problem is easily cured and the effect is
about the same as installing a subwoofer, but is cheaper when you
do it yourself. The only disadvantage is added weight and many hours
you'd spend installing the materials. But with
3200lbs in WRX extra 50-100lbs won't make much of a difference
while the difference in sound quality is not just pronounced,
it's profound. At least if you treat the outer metal skin
behind the moisture barrier, the inside skin and the plastic trim
(on the inside obviously).
You can laugh all you want, but until you do it you won't know
what you are missing. From the sound quality perspective that is.

Did you bother to read this:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/benefits/
off the link that I provided?
I assure you that piece was not written by me.

 

[BD]

I don't get it. The problem is easily cured and the effect is
about the same as installing a subwoofer, but is cheaper when you
do it yourself. The only disadvantage is added weight and many hours
you'd spend installing the materials. But with
3200lbs in WRX extra 50-100lbs won't make much of a difference
while the difference in sound quality is not just pronounced,
it's profound. At least if you treat the outer metal skin
behind the moisture barrier, the inside skin and the plastic trim
(on the inside obviously).
You can laugh all you want, but until you do it you won't know
what you are missing. From the sound quality perspective that is.

Did you bother to read this:http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/benefits/
off the link that I provided?
I assure you that piece was not written by me.

Well - this was more info than I was expecting - all I expected was a
tip on how to disassemble the door panel. Now I have a whole summer
project laid out for myself!

As to ambient noise in my car, I usually have the stereo turned up
loud enough to drown out all that; so I doubt I'll be treating all
surfaces; but the doors, I can certainly see that being worth the time
and investment.

Thanks!

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

Hi, all.

I have a reasonably potent stereo in my WRX, and am noticing some
resonance in the doors and the dash at certain bass frequencies from
the speakers. The speakers are after-market. I'm pretty sure they're
not blown, and it's just a question of some bits of plastic 'buzzing'
when the tone hits the right spot.

I want to pull the door panels off, see what's rattling, and secure
it.

I went looking for instructions on removing the inner door panels, and
did find a post from awhile back (quoted below).

The point about removing the window control modules is not clear. Is
this suggesting pulling the toggles off the panel?

I wonder if someone could help to clarify the process here... I don't
want to pull on the wrong thing and break a clip somewhere.

Thanks!

BD

Here you go:

http://subaruparts.com/install/2002ispeakerupgrade.pdf

 

[isquat]

On Feb 26, 7:48 pm, (e-mail address removed) wrote:






Well - this was more info than I was expecting - all I expected was a
tip on how to disassemble the door panel. Now I have a whole summer
project laid out for myself!

As to ambient noise in my car, I usually have the stereo turned up
loud enough to drown out all that; so I doubt I'll be treating all

In my experience it's not quieter, at least not noticeably
(but like you I did not treat the floor and the roof).
But the sound quality is significantly better.
Found the page for the Overkill foam mat:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=ps&pg=3

It seems to help some to cut back the sound reflection some
but definitely secondary to treating the doors with the butyl
sel adhesive mats. Second Skin damplifier is easier to apply
than RAAMmat but RAAMmat is much cheaper per pound.

If you have a subwoofer and it's in the trunk I'd recommend
to tear the liner apart and treat all surfaces there.

surfaces; but the doors, I can certainly see that being worth the time
and investment.

Yep. Once you have the plastic cover off it's not much more
work removing the moisture barrier (careful, you want to reuse it)
and treat the metal surfaces.

Priorities:

1. Outer door skin
2. The inside of the plastic panel
3. inner dook skin
4. optionally closed cell foam past the moisture barrier

First door is the slowest but then it gets easier
I take my old advice back: start with one of the rear doors.
if you screw up you'll regret it less. The do the passenger's front
then driver's front and then the remaining back door.
The driver's is the most important to treat and the most important
not to screwup on dis/reassembly obviously

If I were to convince my wife to let me tear obs apart
I'd do the floor too because that's where subaru subwoofer
is located. Not that it rattles but still I expect an improvement
there.

There is no way to tear the mirrors apart and treat the inside
of the cases, is there?